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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 5013 that is stalling every 10-20 seconds after starting. I tore into it to look at the fuel control module, it looks like had been replaced because it is certainly not 30 years old. I've seen the module can be repaired but has anyone swapped out the electronic fuel control valve with a motorcycle style petcock and bypassed that whole electronic fuel feed system? It looks to me that it could be an easy swap out because the fuel looks to be gravity feed as long as the electronic valve and module are operating correctly but I wanted to ask if anyone else knows better.
 

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This may not be your problem, but my Honda H3011H RER would stall soon after starting. I would remove the gas cap and use the overflow hose to blow in the tank to clear debris that might be blocking the outlet and all was well again. Until it happened again later. Finally I discovered it was the gas cap not venting because it was screwed on too tight. The gasket was getting compressed, sealing off the vent passage. Putting the gas cap on only finger tight solved the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the input. I'm up for trying anything. Basically I learned to listen for the click. When I turn the key to on I hear one click on the fuel valve opening up. If there is a second click after a few seconds then it's malfunctioning because that is the valve closing. Sometimes it works perfectly and sometimes it gives me trouble. When it gets a little warmer I'm going to try and bypass the electric valve and see how it goes.

Also just to put it out there... when I tore into the tractor to pull the fuel control module out I found that the previous owner bypassed the combination relay module. It's not on the tractor and the plugs are just hanging there. If anyone is interested in how that was done I can look into to it when it gets warmer out. Here is a photo of where the combination relay module is supposed to be.
 

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On my 4518 the module powers a solenoid with a rod on it into the carb.......it moves the rod out to let fuel in......so if the module or solenoid is sketchy.....it'll cut off fuel into carb. I sawed the rod off on mine about 10 years ago and never bothered to replace it as it works fine without it. Look on side of carb....right by bowl.
I realize your engine is different ... but I suspect it has same setup.... so that won't work as the solenoid and rod will still stop fuel flow.

Also I'm real interested in bypassing main relay combination box, as I've been having intermittent issues with mine and it serves no purpose for me, as all safety switches are bypassed except pto. I've actually been looking at diagrams etc, but we are in dead of winter and I use it (snowblower) almost daily. I do realize a member here can repair them, at a reasonable cost, but it's pointless unless I replace four switches. The only purpose is to provide power to things when all switches are in the right place....and all my switches are removed and wires soldered.

So any info regarding that would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can finally update this post! Before this winter I replaced the electric fuel valve with a simple fuel petcock from the hardware store, was even able to use the original fuel hoses. I have had zero issues starting it up and keeping it running this winter to snowblow. Right before I turn off the tractor I shut off the petcock and haven't had any backfires. I can post a photo if anyone is interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I can finally update this post! Before this winter I replaced the electric fuel valve with a simple fuel petcock from the hardware store, was even able to use the original fuel hoses. I have had zero issues starting it up and keeping it running this winter to snowblow. Right before I turn off the tractor I shut off the petcock and haven't had any backfires. I can post a photo if anyone is interested.
Hi all, here is a quick video showing the change I made.

 
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