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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased an older JD 165 Hydro. I thought I got a good deal on it until I started looking at it in my garage. I have replace the ignition switch(only the shut-off feature worked), the transmission fan(missing every fan blade), drained and filled the differential and hydrostatic drive fluids(my initial suspicion of the non-movement when operated for 15+ minutes), and now I am attempting to change out the brake pads on the transmission.
This leads me to my issue. The disk is completely frozen to the shaft. The splines are heavily corroded. I tried heat, penetrating fluid, and a combination of heat, penetrating fluid, pry bars, and a BFH. Outside of dropping the trans out of the frame and cutting the disk off, any have any other ideas?

If I can get this brake system completed, all that my OCD requires is 4 new tires. The non working low fuel light and the bypassed safety switches are not an issue with me.
 

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Well, it's probably not the right answer, but, the brakes on my 265 hydro quit working a couple years ago. I never use the brakes on a hydro. The pedal still goes down so I can lock the hydro in neutral. This one is in such nice shape body and engine wise, I'm thinking about restoring it. Then I'll fix the brakes.
 

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You don't want to cut it off....but I would hit it with ATF mixed with acetone ( 50/50) ..or if you prefer something different for a few days, a couple times a day and bang it a few times each time you soak it...and really lay on the heat...what kind of torch were you using?....try MAPP or acetylene you have to get it really really hot....just abut red hot
 

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If this is the external disc brake system, don't cut it off. Keep at it to get it freed up. If it is the external disc, there is a Youtuber called Mustie1 who recently refurbished a "free stuff" JD with the frozen external disc brake. I think it was posted on his channel about a month or two ago. You might get some pointers on unfreezing the brake from that.
Good luck.
 

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Clean it really well and then apply heat. It is better to use a highly focused heat like acetylene so that you don't heat up the shaft also. Also, if you can find something like a ball joint fork to put on the shaft to hit instead of the disc it will spread the force out more evenly. Good luck.
 

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Here is a link to the video in case it helps any. I think the brake issues start about the 40 or 50 miniute mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks to all with the ideas. I was just thinking about using a pickle fork(ball joint fork). I just can’t find mine. Plus, I was worried about braking the disk.

Right now I am just using propane for the heat. I didn’t want to go too hot and melt the seal on the shaft. That would totally be my luck right now. I already was able to use the torch to release the broken bolts that hold the caliper on the trans.

I sometimes wish I had the gearbox instead of the hydrostatic drive. The brake disk would be in such a better location to work on it. However, rebuilding the Eaton Hydrostatic unit is in my wheelhouse.

thanks
 

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Why do you want to remove the brake disc? The brake pads can be replaced with out removing the disc .If it is rusty and a little rough,polish with sand paper .. This is a 4 MPH lawn tractor the brakes do not need to be perfect . The family car that goes down the E way at 85 MPH,does need to be perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why do you want to remove the brake disc? The brake pads can be replaced with out removing the disc .If it is rusty and a little rough,polish with sand paper .. This is a 4 MPH lawn tractor the brakes do not need to be perfect . The family car that goes down the E way at 85 MPH,does need to be perfect.
I need to slide the disk out far enough to replace the inner pad. Also, I want the disk to float on the shaft as it was designed to do. With it seized on the splines with corrosion, it will not allow either to happen.
 

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Having a replacement seal on hand for that shaft may not be such a bad idea. :)

Another question I would have is: What holds that shaft in the trans? If it's just a snap-ring or two, you don't wanna be exerting a lot of force on that..... In this case, I think chemicals, and patience, are your friend. Clean the are as good as you can, then apply your favorite penetrating lubricant liberally. Tap on the disk with a hammer a bit, so the vibrations will let the fluid work it's way into the splines. Do that a couple times a day, for a couple days, then it should break loose reasonably easily.

I don't think propane is going to get it hot enough. Mapp gas would be better, oxy/acetylene torch would be best. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There is a needle bearing and two thrust spacers that hold the input gear/brake shaft of the peerless 1300 series gear reduction differential. No worries about breaking any snaprings or such.
 
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