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I've thought about trying some of those cheap ebay specail tri-ribs that I see people talking about on the forums from time to time.


Anymore it seems like most stores only keep an inventory of what they can sell daily. It's like they want everybody to start ordering everything online...
 

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The Lowe's close to my house used to stock roller chain in 10 ft lengths,all sizes from #25 to #60....I bought a roll of #41 there and used it up over a years time--went back to get more,and the drawer was still there--but was empty..

They had ball bearings that were 1-3/8" OD and 3/4 or 1" OD too,for rims on tractors ,wheelbarrows,etc...those too vanished after I bought all they had (lucky if there was 2 of each in stock!)...

I used to buy brass bushings there that fit most front rims on my tractors,they had a flange on one end,and they had various sizes ranging from 1/2" to 1" also...next time I went to buy more,the drawer was empty--asked the employee "when do you expect to get more of these in "?. and he replied "oh--we did a major inventory and a lot of stuff that wasn't selling well,we aren't going to keep in stock any more,we sent them back--I can order them for you though"...

No thanks...then I proceeded to drive almost 50 miles from hardware stores to Tractor Supply,before I got 4 bushings,and the prices ranged from $3.00 to $9.99 each!..
Lowe's was selling the ones they had for $2-$3 each,the ball bearings were about $4..now it is a major hassle to find any on the shelf anywhere except those few mom & pop hardware stores--who have little choice to sell them for the highest price if they want to stay in business..
It is no wonder people just order them online and have them Fed-Exed to their door..
 

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I put Carlisle Xtrac snowblower tires on the front of mine. No more pushing...

I did something similar but went with snow hogs. Far better than turfs, but not perfect. I also loaded mine. You may be able to find some weights as well, but that depends on the size of the front rim.
 

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I can tell you that motorcycle chain will make you turn like you're on rails. I used this setup on my ice racing tractor.


The chains did eventually walk to the outside after many laps at +25mph. If I had to do it again, I would cut away some of the tread to give the chains a groove to stay in.
 

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I have done this for years with a bicycle chain. It makes for very solid turning control as long as you don't lift the front of the tractor with the blade - use float or set the blade just barely on the ground.

Make the chain very tight - best if it indents the center of the tire as in the pic. I use a ratchet strap to install them with the tire deflated. I like to put them on as a loop and use a tire iron to work them on if necessary. Master links are available at bike repair shops. Once in a while a master link will pop loose, but they are cheap to replace.
You probably don't want to hang a lot of weight off the back of the tractor that lightens the front end. I use wheel weights and chains on the back.
 

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Front tire chains or.....ugh ex

In our shop a novel solution a customer made was a pair or wheels used for plowing, no tire, welded his design of traction steel webbing to do the job. Appearance was years of effictive use.
 

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Went out and moved snow today for the first time in three years. Changing or modifying the front tires will accomplish nothing until they stay on the ground. Even with the blade in float no ground contact of the front tires. Time to build a front weight bracket and see what it takes to plant them down.
 

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Went out and moved snow today for the first time in three years. Changing or modifying the front tires will accomplish nothing until they stay on the ground. Even with the blade in float no ground contact of the front tires. Time to build a front weight bracket and see what it takes to plant them down.
a) Adding weight will do nothing to alleviate your problem. The hydraulics will win every time.

b) Don't use the float position.

c) When you lower the bucket for the next pass, watch the front tire. When it starts to come up, check the heel (back edge) of the bucket. Adjust with the bucket curl to set the depth of the cutting edge without lifting the tire. The heel should be about 1/4"- 3/8" above grade for a flat bucket, 3/4"-2" above grade to scrape the snow down to hard pack. Use the arm lift for coarse setting of the bucket height, bucket curl for the fine setting of the cutting edge.

I've been using a GT sized loader for snow removal for 40 years, the first 10 years learning all the little tricks to applying the right pressure in the right circumstances to allow the steering to function as needed at the right time. It is a learning curve, and a long one due to the seasonal nature of the job. November/December is always retraining time, even now.
 

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Thanks Tudor that would be fine if I had a loader. Just have a blade. I am thinking all the weight added to the back for traction has lightened the front of the tractor to much. So much that when going into reverse with the blade up the front end will bounce. This is the first snow season that the tractor has had a factory blade on it. The previous blade was adapted to the tractor and was able to adjust the rack of the blade so that the front of the tractor did not lift when pushing. With the factory blade unlatched for snow duty only made matters worse. The springs either need to be tightened more or some other type of adjustment needs to be made. Until keep the tires on the ground with enough weight adding chains will accomplish nothing.
 

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Thanks Tudor that would be fine if I had a loader. Just have a blade. I am thinking all the weight added to the back for traction has lightened the front of the tractor to much. So much that when going into reverse with the blade up the front end will bounce. This is the first snow season that the tractor has had a factory blade on it. The previous blade was adapted to the tractor and was able to adjust the rack of the blade so that the front of the tractor did not lift when pushing. With the factory blade unlatched for snow duty only made matters worse. The springs either need to be tightened more or some other type of adjustment needs to be made. Until keep the tires on the ground with enough weight adding chains will accomplish nothing.
A few questions for you....
1) What model machine?
2) How much ballast is on the machine?
3) Where is the ballast located?
 

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1) Ariens GT20 with factory blade
2) approximate 300 lbs.
3) three point tool bar (rear traction is not a problem)
The 300 lbs hanging way back on the 3-point is surely not helping your light front end. The ideal place for traction ballast is in, or on, the wheels. Fluid filled tires and wheel weights can add 300 lbs of added traction with zero loss of front traction. Ballasting these small tractors is really a balance between front and rear traction.
 

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The 300 lbs hanging way back on the 3-point is surely not helping your light front end. The ideal place for traction ballast is in, or on, the wheels. Fluid filled tires and wheel weights can add 300 lbs of added traction with zero loss of front traction. Ballasting these small tractors is really a balance between front and rear traction.
Well fluid fill just simply is not happening and adding three hundred lbs. of wheel weight will not either. The front weight will also be useful when plowing next spring and that is the direction I will be going.
 

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Well fluid fill just simply is not happening and adding three hundred lbs. of wheel weight will not either. The front weight will also be useful when plowing next spring and that is the direction I will be going.
Is there room to hang weight under the belly of the tractor.? This would add overall weight to the tractor which is what you want.
 

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I've often thought about making a belly weight that hooks on in place of the deck. ☺
That's what I had done. Didn't go up and down, it was just put on where the deck went.. Worked good. With the right plate steel you can easily get 200# on it. No pictures of it as I had sold it.
 

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Just remember all that weight is supported by the transaxle and front axles,they do have limits..
Fluid filled tires don't put strain on the axles like dead weight hanging off the back or belly will..
 

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If you have ever examined an Ariens GT damaging the frame will likely be the last thing to happen. As far as the weight the local dealer has told me the tires will blowout on count of the load before any other damage will occur. In fact his 14 hp gear tractor is set up for snow removal only and carries 480 lbs. in the rear weight box. I need to check in with him on the front weight prospects.
 

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If you have ever examined an Ariens GT damaging the frame will likely be the last thing to happen. As far as the weight the local dealer has told me the tires will blowout on count of the load before any other damage will occur. In fact his 14 hp gear tractor is set up for snow removal only and carries 480 lbs. in the rear weight box. I need to check in with him on the front weight prospects.
No disrespect to your dealer but the part about blowing out your tires because of weight is way too funny... I couldn't begin to imagine how much that would take.. Not sure where you'd find the room to put it all.. Maybe he was sarcastically speaking..?
 
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