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Discussion Starter #161
Once I get the starting issue sorted out I'll need to flush out and mount the gas tank and then I can put everything back together. I painted all of the remaining small parts today. Hopefully, this week I can go sandblast the wheels and get them painted too.
 

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Discussion Starter #162
Stopped in to work today and bought new plugs, oil and filter. Hopefully tomorrow I can do those things, set up a gravity gas tank and let this baby run for a bit.
 

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I have gone to using a longer filter on the M20. A little more capacity and way easier to extract from the Kohler tins. NAPA Gold 1728. The Kohler recommendation did not even clear the tins. The short one was a big pain to remove and install.
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Maybe I'll go trade the 1348 filter I got today for that one. I need to go get new fuel hose anyway, and the store is open until 1 or so.
 

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So that's what the 1348 I have in the cabinet was for. Its been there for years. I thought maybe it was for a car that is no longer here.
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Yep, that's what it fits.
Another couple of hours of one step forward and two back. I had another Ariens switch (used) here that looked to be in better shape than mine, so after determining that the key fit it I swapped the switches. After that I could see the volt meter move a little bit when I turned it to "start", but still no starter action. So, I worked on cleaning the terminals on the solenoid, gave up on that and stole the solenoid off of the Poulan Pro. Swapped the battery cables too. Tested the key and the engine cranks!
So, I changed the oil, put new plugs in the engine, sprayed some starting fluid down the throat, and it cranks...but no spark.
Just in case they are different, I plan to put the old switch back in to see if I have spark then...perhaps it is different and ground is now connected to the wrong terminal... I doubt that though.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
The switch is the same. To be sure of that I swapped them again and jumped across the solenoid terminals to get it to crank, and still have no spark. I really don't want to pull this motor out again but that's the only way to get the rear shroud off to gain access to the coil. After I pull it, I think I'll bolt it down to the bench and only after it runs good will I put it back in the tractor.
 

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You have everything plugged in on top the engine and all safety switches hooked up? Start and run circuits check ok? If it had power steering just taking loose the console gives enough room to access the flywheel. Not sure how that works with manual steering.
 

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You may want to check the time delay relay before removing the engine. If not grounded properly it will not start. All that new paint maybe keeping it from grounding some where. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #170
Because there's no body on this at this point I have bypassed the safeties (no driveshaft in there yet, it won't be running me over) and the one plug on the top of the motor is connected. The confusing part is that it DID start one night, but the next night it had no start. In that time frame, I did change the solenoid (because it wasn't cranking and it was easier to replace it than to clean the terminals) and the switch, which I afterwards swapped with the old one to make sure it isn't a switch issue. Now it cranks over just fine when I turn the key, but no start.
Isn't that time delay relay a bit on the pricey side?
 

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Yep over 200 at the Ariens dealer. I did find one for 176 without freight. Then robbed one from another tractor. Will make that one work when the time comes.
 

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Best I could figure out it delays voltage to the PTO relay and the connection threw the safety switches for the ignition. The red wire feeds the PTO relay. I have not messed with the other wires to see if jumping the two would activate the ignition run cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
I think I'll try bypassing it for now to get it running and make sure a $200 part is the issue. My son is an electrical engineer so I think he'll be able to help me with that actually.
 

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Will be interesting to see what he suggest. There has to be a more realistic why to do what the manufacture intended than $200 up grades every time something happens to it. I actually went around it to get the pto's to work on the GT20 this summer.
 

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That's my understanding of what it does. That and it keep things running just incase you hit a bump and your butt lifts off the seat a second.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
I read a thread (here or another site, not sure which) about a guy who made his own "clone" of that module. I think that's what my son and I may attempt to do as I really don't want to pay close to $200 for that thing. I might be less reluctant to do that if this was a machine that had been running and being used for a bit, but so far it's run for only a few seconds. Sure wan't long enough to know if the tractor is worth a $200 part.
On another note... how do I really test this thing?
 

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Disconnect it a attach a jumper to the yellow and black wires of the main harness. Also make sure the neutral switch has continuity or simply disconnect it and jump it with a jumper wire. The "I" terminal on the ignition switch feeds the center wire to the engine harness connector if everything on the engine is working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
Thanks... I'll try that when I can get back to it, which is likely to be sometime this weekend. This temporary "unretirement" is taking up a lot of my time. I went from working 13 hours a week to over 44!
 
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