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I have a tank off a parts tractor to use for priming and testing. Just don't like running anything off of starting fluid. But yes the ignition switch is cheap compared to the other options. This tractor should look real nice with all the painting you have done when all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Still got more painting to do too. The hood and the wheels. Also the "control box" on the right fender. I need to sandblast and paint that box and the wheels. Speaking of that box...that lever assembly is what I'm most worried about forgetting how to reassemble. I took some pictures, but I'm not sure I took enough.
I'm not a fan of starting fluid either, but I will use it for a quick start now and then.
 

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Same lever assembly that is on the GT19 if you need help you know were I am. Did you see the post for the decal supplier I found digging threw old post on here? Last time I checked the site was still up. Prices did not look all that bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
No, didn't see it, but I'll look. Those hood decals are never going to survive a hood paint job. Thanks.
There's a parts diagram on Jack's Small Engine that should help me get this together, but I may have to ask you for some actual pictures at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #206
The new ignition switch came today. It didn't fix the problem. A jumper wire from BAT positive terminal on the battery to the I terminal on the switch and it fires right up. I'm guessing that means I need to study the wiring diagram some more.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
When I connect a jumper wire I can hear a relay click in, I don't hear it when I just turn the key to "On". I would think I'm not getting power to the switch, but there has to be because the starter will operate from the key. Hmmmm. Unless I missed one, the safety switches are all temporarily bypassed.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
Ok, now I have a question. It appears to me that the PTO switches are both pulled out and stuck that way. Does that keep power from going to the IGN even if the safety switches are (temporarily) bypassed?
 

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Right they will not start with the PTO switches on.
The new ignition switch came today. It didn't fix the problem. A jumper wire from BAT positive terminal on the battery to the I terminal on the switch and it fires right up. I'm guessing that means I need to study the wiring diagram some more.
I have started mine that way for years. Just don't make a permanent connection, temporary is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Have you ever priced those PTO switches? Looks like two of them is close to $150! I'm thinking I might see if I can take them apart and clean them up...I won't be out much if I can't considering they're useless now.
 

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Do you have some part numbers for switches you need, some of us could also do some searching for you.

Is the ignition switch you bought part number correct per parts diagram?

PO didn't swap out ignition switch with incorrect one?

I am in no way questioning your attributes, just looking outside the box.

I want to see this thing run.

CCMoe
 

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Discussion Starter #212
The ignition switch is an aftermarket replacement for the Ariens switch, by Ariens part number. The PO did not swap out the ignition switch ever. According to him (I see him several times a month) it was working fine until the starter went and then he parked it. I never checked it for spark until after I replaced the switch with a used one because the switch did not activate the starter solenoid. If I remember correctly, it did start once or twice after I changed the switch, but I'm not sure of that.

I haven't done enough looking into this to have any part numbers for the PTO switches yet.
 

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Have you ever priced those PTO switches? Looks like two of them is close to $150! I'm thinking I might see if I can take them apart and clean them up...I won't be out much if I can't considering they're useless now.
I have one to do myself some time. It is stuck in the off position. Going to remove it and soak it in some vinegar to remove any corrosion first.
 

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I took one out and with the help of some PB blaster and mini-vice grips got it moving. I can push and pull it maybe 3/8 of an inch now. However, checking continuity I don't see any change, It looks like it might be a 4-spade double pole switch.
 

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I took one out and with the help of some PB blaster and mini-vice grips got it moving. I can push and pull it maybe 3/8 of an inch now. However, checking continuity I don't see any change, It looks like it might be a 4-spade double pole switch.
I took one out and with the help of some PB blaster and mini-vice grips got it moving. I can push and pull it maybe 3/8 of an inch now. However, checking continuity I don't see any change, It looks like it might be a 4-spade double pole switch.
Think you are correct on that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #216
If I could be sure that it's a double pole, single throw switch I could get another switch for a whole lot less money than $70. I'm not a purist, and this isn't a resto job, so any switch that fit the position would make me a happy man.
 

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Am I correct in assuming (I know, I know...) that because this model had an optional loader the hydraulic pump is a bit higher volume/pressure than a tractor that did not list that option?
I'm not familiar with that model at all, but some tractors that have a loader option have another hydraulic pump added when the loader is installed while others do not, so if that model has a loader option that runs off of the main pump then yes, it probably has better flow than one that does not, but not necessarily more pressure. Pressure does not need to be that high to run a loader. The lift capacity is a factor of the pressure in pounds per square inch (psi) and the surface area of the pistons in the lift cylinders in square inches. So a larger diameter cylinder will apply more lift force for the same amount of pressure. The flow of the pump in gallons per minute (gpm) is usually higher for a pump that drives a loader, as people are generlly impatient with a loader that lifts slowly.
 

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Discussion Starter #218
Thanks for that info, it'll be good to know some one of these days.
So far I'm not even close to looking for/making a loader due to little time, less money, and some sort of wiring issue.
 

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Thanks for that info, it'll be good to know some one of these days.
So far I'm not even close to looking for/making a loader due to little time, less money, and some sort of wiring issue.
Think a lot of us are in that shape. We painted a bathroom today so at least there will be some spending money this week. Oh and there is a dishwasher that needs to be delivered. Its not great but will cover business expenses for the week.
 

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Discussion Starter #220
Just came in from the garage, and thought I'd do an update. I went out there determined to take one of the PTO switches apart in an attempt to make it work. I spent about 15-20 minutes at that task and then gave it up. I did, however, manage to get the shaft to work in and out so I grabbed my meter and I do have continuity on the two terminals closest to the knob when the shaft is pulled all the way out. I was hoping to see that, because I would expect those are the "on" terminals. I did not have continuity on the other two terminals, which I assume to be the "safety" terminals which are only on when the switch is off. I kept messing with it, and finally got the shaft to push in a bit further, where I felt and heard a click. I checked for continuity then, and sure enough it was working. So, feeling brave, I pulled the other switch out and inside of 5 minutes, had that previously very stuck shaft going in and out just fine. Checked for continuity and it was working just fine. Plugged them both back in and....no go. Still no spark. I decided that 9:45 was getting a tad late for really diving in (I get up at 6) so I called it quits for the night. Baby steps of progress are better than no progress, so tomorrow night I'll get back at it again. One of these evenings it's all going to come together and work as it should.
 
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