My Tractor Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I bought my tractor, I got the seller to throw in a "seized auger". It is a nice heavy Ford 905. I figured someone had just let it run out of oil, and was hoping it was just bearings and not gear damage.

It took some doing, but I got it apart. Looks like oil long gone, and worse yet, water got in. Bearings were completely ruined rusty mess. But lucky the gears are great other than a little pitting in one area where they were together. It's not really that bad, so it may be a little noisy, but it will run fine. And I was able to find all new bearings and seals, so life is good. But I now have 2 problems.

1) I had planned to just use RTV for gaskets. But it looks like that is a bad idea. For one thing, there is nothing locating the housing pieces except that clamp surface and bolts. It needs to be bolted down hard. And I also noticed that if you bolt it down without gasket, it binds up VERY hard. Looks like it actually needs the gasket to establish/limit the bearing preload. I've also checked and double checked to make sure everything is seated. Looks like it needs a fairly thick gasket to run. So, does this sound right? Doesn't sound right to me, but maybe? Also, I'll probably make my own, but are gaskets readily available? If they are part of the tolerance stack to achieve proper preload, I would rather just buy that guess.

2) It was pretty frozen up, and the only way I could get the pinion apart was to remove the u-joint and press through the yoke. But the seals on the cup were completely hardened and broke into pieces. And looks like either I lost a pin or two, or they were already missing. So I have to find a replacement. Problem is, looks like it's an odd size. Two local drive line supply sources say that can't find a replacement. I don't have the sizes handy (no numbers on joints), but I was thinking maybe this is an AG specific part? Suggestions?
 

·
certified tractor nut
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
I deal with gear boxes a lot at work and the way we set the final preload is by using shims in between the covers and the housing I would suggest trying to locate the correct shims to use and if that fails use the paper gasket material and make a couple extras so that you can adjust the preload to get is as close as possible

The way we do ours at work is the shafts should be tight but able to be spun by hand hope that helps we also use a zero base grease instead of oil it works just as well and no worries about the lube being lost to leaks.


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
certified tractor nut
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
Post a few pics and maybe we can give more info


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, that's what I expected. When I took it apart, I wondered about the multiple layers of gaskets and though how odd it was that someone had already been into this thing and didn't bother to remove the previous gaskets. Then I found there was no way to set preload, and the design requires a hard bolted assembly (so no RTV gasket), so had pretty much decided this is how it was going to play, but wanted confirmation. I have a good supply of shim stock, but I don't want to try to make a shim to match that large top surface. I wonder if it would work ok to make some wing shims like long narrow washers to locate on the bolts and support nearby, then RTV the seal, trapping/sealing the shims as well. Probably not a good idea. I've got some thick gasket material, so I guess I'll start there.

And I could post pictures, but not sure what good it will do. It pretty much looks like any auger gear box.
 

·
certified tractor nut
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
Well I was asking for the pics mainly because I wanted to see if its the same type of gearbox we use at work if it is I could find out where we get our shims and pass the info to you although the application we use the in at work is in car haulers and the gear boxes run giant screws to raise and lower the upper rack that the cars go on its a European design and the boxes we use are made in England.


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ah, I see, that makes sense. I'll see if I can get some tomorrow. Thank you.

I also did some checking around for local sources of NLGI 0 or 00 grease in gallons. Looks near impossible, and even online sources seem to mostly be in the 50 gal range. Local bobcat/tractor supply AND talking to "the old guy who's been there forever and knows everything" in the main store proves to be a dead end.
 

·
certified tractor nut
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
I believe that corn head grease is a zero base and is sold at Deere dealers


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Very sorry to be so long getting the pics posted. Since this started I became a grandfather ahead of schedule, but mother and grandson are doing fine. Then battery died in camera, so I finally gave up and used my phone. Hopefully this will be clear enough to provide some value. Again, sorry for the delay...



 

·
certified tractor nut
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
First of all congratulations on becoming a grandfather. The gearbox looks nothing like what we use at work so that option is out I would say to just go with the original plan of using multiple gaskets made with gasket paper sorry I couldn't give a better answer


Sent from the MTF Free App
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top