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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I purchased a used (very well used) ford 4630 to replace my Ford 3000 with an acting up SOS.
I drug it home and started fiddling with it. Previous owner said it wouldn’t turn over. He had replaced the starter. And then gave up on it. I discovered that he didn’t hook up the starter solenoid.. hooked it up and she started cranking just fine. Drained the old diesel, and started cranking it over. Wouldn’t fire. I sprayed a little starting fluid in it and it fired right up.. I immediately knew it was a fuel issue. now, here is my question.. where in the heck is the fuel shutoff solenoid?? I cannot find it anywhere on the injection pump. But I’m pretty confident it should have one.. am I missing something completely? I find a lot of info on wiring one up. And I see them for sale everywhere. But I can’t find one on my tractor and I don’t know where to look..
 

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Depends on what year your 4630 is and whether it has a turbo as to whether it has an electric fuel shutoff (fuel shutoff solenoid). On all non-turbo 4630's, the fuel shutoff is purely mechanical. There should be a handle on the dash that is connected via a cable to a lever on the injection pump. It sort of looks like a choke handle/cable for an older gasoline engine. When you pull that handle out it should shut off the fuel.

If yours has a turbo charger it could be an earlier non-emissionized model made from 1994-1997, or it could be an emissionized model made from 1998-1999. Both turbo models did have an electrical fuel shut off solenoid. If it has one it would be near the rear of the pump where the lines going up to the injectors is located. It looks like a plug that has a metal spade sticking out of it for the connector on the wire to slide onto.

Drained the old diesel, and started cranking it over. Wouldn’t fire. I sprayed a little starting fluid in it and it fired right up.
If it stayed running and sounded like it was firing good on all 3 cylinders after using starting fluid to get it started, then that is actually more likely a compression issue or a weak battery or dirty electrical connections, than it is likely to be a fuel issue. It takes a lot of compression to get that old Ford diesel engine to start, but once it is started it will run fine with lower compression. Starting fluid will fire at lower compression numbers than diesel fuel will, and it actually produces a much more violent explosion that can damage the engine if you use too much. A starter that is not spinning fast enough doesn't produce enough compression, so that is where I would start. Check that the battery is fully charged and tests good and that it has at least 850 CCA. Then make sure that both ends of both battery cables are clean and bright and that the places they connect to are also clean and shiny and all connections are tight. Then do the same for the cable from the solenoid to the starter if there is one. I can't remember if the solenoid is built into the starter on that model or if it's separate. If any of the cables themselves appear old and worn replace them. After all of that, if it still needs starter fluid I would do a compression test. If the compression test is good then I would get the injectors tested, as there is a small chance that they could be clogged enough that they aren't producing an optimal spray pattern which could keep it from starting but be sufficient for running once started. The electrical things are easiest to do on your own and that is why I would eliminate those first. You have to pull the injectors to do the compression test, and if you've gotten that far and have them out I would go ahead and have them tested by a reputable diesel shop while you have them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply, that makes sense about it not having a fuel shutoff solenoid. I thought it would be weird to have both the switch and a cable.
The reason I am looking for a fuel shutoff solenoid is because I cracked the injector lines and am getting zero fuel. I was hoping it could be something else, but I fear it could be the injection pump if there is no other shutoff.
 

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Do you have an Operator's Manual for it?

Have you tried the manual priming pump? It should be above the injection pump itself. It is a round hosing with a large round button. You push the button repeatedly to prime the system. I'm not sure how many times you need to push it on that model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ordered one for it last night. I don't recall seeing a manual priming bulb, it looks like the fuel comes right from the filter into the injection pump, but I could be wrong. I neglected to swing by the car wash on the way home from picking it up. Ill do a quick google search and see if I can find out what they look like.
 

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There has to be a engine mounted Lift Pump or else a electric fuel pump, never seen a Diesel without one. The Lift Pump will be between the fuel tank and fuel filter. Also i'll bet the red cable is the shut off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There has to be a engine mounted Lift Pump or else a electric fuel pump, never seen a Diesel without one. Also i'll bet the red cable is the shut off.
Red cable is definitely the shut off. I just thought it may have both mechanical and electric, couldn’t find the info anywhere before now.
Would the pump be before the filter? Because I’m sure it comes straight from the tank to the filter. In tank pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also, to note, when I drained the tank, I pulled the plug from the bottom of the front filter. Fuel flowed freely.
 

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If you can follow the fuel line from the tank and it goes to the filter then there must not be a fuel pump of any sorts. Best thing to do would be crack open all the fuel line nuts on the injectors and crank the engine over until fuel starts coming out from the nuts. As each one starts putting fuel out tighten them up and it should start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just reconfirmed. Fuel line runs from tank petcock to filter, to fuel pump. Nothing inline to prime.
How long should it take to get fuel up the lines? I’m familiar with automotive diesel, but this is my first tractor diesel and I assume fuel volume is very low in comparison.
Is there any way to bleed/prime the pump?
 

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Most lift pumps will have a primer on them but since your tractor has no lift pump then maybe the injection pump has a primer on it. If there is no primer at all then just loosen the injector nuts and crank the engine over until fuel comes out around the nuts.
 

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OK, I looked back through the parts drawings and apparently not all of them had the primer, and it looks like yours does not.

You're going to need to do as 9297oldram suggested and loosen the lines at the injectors and crank the starter until only fluid comes out and no air. But first you should loosen the line from the filter at the fitting on the end of the pump toward the rear of the tractor and open the shutoff valve at the bottom of the tank until only fluid is coming out of the line at the pump and no air, then tighten that line up. You don't need to crank the starter while beleeding it to that point as gravity will do the work for you. Then move onto bleeding the injector lines by loosening them at the injector end and crank the starter. It's best to have a friend holding the key while you watch for the bubbles to stop and tighten them up while the starter is still turning, otherwise air can get back into the lines while the nuts are still loose when the engine stops turning. Make sure that the handle for the shutoff cable is pushed in and the throttle is set at least halfway up to the maximum. If everything else is in working order it should fire up when you tighten down the second injector line and it should run on two cylinders until you get the third line tightened down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got good fuel all the way to the pump. Removed pump bleeder, cranked and fuel sprayed out. Tightened it back up, cracked injector lines, still no fuel..
 
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