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Hi all,
I am a new member but have been referencing this site as I have been shopping for a tractor. I just purchased a 4600 and now I need to replace a rear seal on the axle. I understand that having a manual is one of the first steps and would appreciate any advice/direction on where to get good manual. I would also like to start on digging into this project, since goal of getting this fixed is to get it into use and get some food plots planted before this winter and would appreciate any advice on getting into the rear seal.

I have the tractor up and rear wheel off now.

Thanks in advance.

Kirk
 

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Funny, I was just reading that section in my 4000 manual to answer someone else's question on another forum. The manual says to leave the wheel on so that once you remove the axle from the center housing you can lay the wheel flat on the ground and have the axle standing up so that it's easier to work on.

I just have I&T FO-31 shop manual, which covers the earlier 2000, 3000 & 4000 3 cylinder tractors. The I&T manual is fine for me, as if something major goes wrong, like it needs the engine or transmission rebuilt, I will probably not be doing that myself. The I&T manuals sell for around $30.00, and sometimes even less on ebay if you don't mind a used one that's a little dog-eared. If you decide to go with the I&T manual, the one for your 4600 is the F0-41 manual. If you want to do more intensive repairs, like engine rebuilds and that type of thing, then you might want to consider the real Ford shop manual, which can be had in reprint or in electronic format. both can be found on ebay. The paper copies are fairly expensive, but the electronic versions can be had for around $100.00 or maybe less. Be sure to read things thoroughly on ebay, as the Ford manuals are sometimes split up and different sections are sold separately, so you may think you're getting a good deal only to find that you've just got he transmission section when you really need the engine section, or vice versa.

Anyway, the instructions for my 4000 should be similar. It says to drain the hydraulic fluid from the rear axle center housing first. Then remove the brake linkages and differential lock linkage, and to disconnect any wires going to lights on the rear fender, and then support the center of the rear of the tractor separately from the rear axle that you are removing, and then unbolt the axle housing from the center housing and pull it off. It should slide straight out as the splines on the axle shaft are still mashing with the differential at that point. Once you have it slid out far enough, lay the wheel down flat on the floor and the axle will be standing up, ready to work on.
 

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Kirk, if you haven't already done the work, you should order a new brake boot at this time as it is easiest way to replace it.
The procedure with the wheel on makes it easiest to handle. Good that you ordered a new beaing as you will have to cut the bearing off of the shaft and shrink the new one on when you do it.
 
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