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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

New here, just bought this tractor. Thanks ahead of time. I wondered if on a 68 Ford 4500 3 cylinder diesel when removing the oil pan if I have to do anything like loosen the front of the tractor from the engine block or is it just the bolts on the bottom of the pan and thats it?

Thanks, Dave
 

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should just be the bottom bolts.
 

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Per the manual, you have to take the nose off. The 4500 (and 3400, 3500, 4400) oil pan is a structural part, not a "pan" in the usual sense. It is bolted (and shimmed) to both the transmission and front axle support (well, the front is actually studs with nuts.) The transmission bolts you can simply unbolt and slide out.

You have to actually remove the front axle support to remove the oil pan. Keep track of the shims, they are critical when re-assemblng.

NOT a minor operation - "separating the tractor" but at the front end.

If you think you really want to go there, get the manuals first. Unless you are planning a complete teardown, I'd suggest some motor flush, use the tractor for a few hours, and change the oil and filter on short intervals for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info. It runs great.

The reason I would pull the pan is that the engine block has a crack at the right front lower ear where the front end bolts to the engine.

I am planning to use Locknstitch crack repair locks and inserts to repair it and will end up with a bunch of drill shavings and junk in the pan.

The big bolt there was loose and I dont know whether that caused the crack or if someone loosened the bolt thinking that it would take the stress off the block there and let the rest of the bolts take all the load.

I stop drilled the crack after wire wheeling the area but I should have drilled it before doing that because I think I drilled the wrong spot and I need to drill it again. The first hole is sealed with JB for now.

The loader frame (Massey I was told) goes all the way under the rear axle and is clamped there and then bolted to the front end.

I plan on also making up a heavy frame beam to bolt to the threaded holes in the side of the transmission and go forward and bolt to the side of the front end casting thinking this would also take some load off the engine block.

What do you all think?

I need to do some work with this ford this fall and winter building a shop building on my land so dont want to do a motor change right this minute.
Dave
 

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Thanks for the info. It runs great.

The reason I would pull the pan is that the engine block has a crack at the right front lower ear where the front end bolts to the engine.
Dave
Then you need to get set up to separate the front of the tractor. And I'd strongly suggest getting a service manual - there are some sources that are far less expensive than New Holland for that, I guess. NH was expensive back when I bought mine from them, and has gotten absurd since...

That is a strange frankenstein to see for a loader on a 4500 - the stock loader subframe bolts into the nose (front axle support, to be formal), and goes back to the rear axle. What's even more bizarre is that it appears that the nose pump is either missing or has been drastically replumbed - normally the high pressure line out of that would be coming out that hole in your picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The big front pump is still there and in use for the loader. Its getting its fluid from the reservoir that is built into the right side of the loader frame. Loader is bolted to the front axle support and under the rear axle.

The front end upper hyd reservoir thats made out of half inch plate is not in use right now. The previous owners did some strange things. They added a goofy plastic tank for the power steering pump.

Power steering is completely inop. I think im going to install a hydraulic steering control valve under the dash cowl and a double ended ram on the backside of the front axle beam and it will be straight hydraulic steering.

Will use the power steering pump if it is still good, but the rest of the ford steering gear will be removed. Will cost me about $800 to do it but it would be worth it.

In a couple days I will have time to look over the hydraulic system and draw it all out after I figure out what all they did to it.
 

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Power steering is completely inop. I think im going to install a hydraulic steering control valve under the dash cowl and a double ended ram on the backside of the front axle beam and it will be straight hydraulic steering.

Will use the power steering pump if it is still good, but the rest of the ford steering gear will be removed. Will cost me about $800 to do it but it would be worth it.
I'd be interested in that - especially where you're getting parts - I came in about double that when I looked into full-hydraulic steering a while back, and decided I'd have to wait until I found a good donor cheap at the junkyard to have any hope of affording it. I might actually be able to swing $800-ish (and I know the pump still works on mine.)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
http://www.trail-gear.com/full-hydraulic

The control valve is $300, the stub steering column is $59, they have a nice double ended ram thats $319.

You could rig something else up thats a lot cheaper if you wanted as far as the ram goes but with the double ram you wont have to make up a drag link to connect the two spindles together since the double ram solidly connects to both sides.

You can use 2 cheap individual rams , but have to make a cross link.

I measured the travel lock to lock at the tie rod ends on mine and its just under 8 inches.

Or you might be able to get a cheap used steering valve from a salvage forklift.




I'd be interested in that - especially where you're getting parts - I came in about double that when I looked into full-hydraulic steering a while back, and decided I'd have to wait until I found a good donor cheap at the junkyard to have any hope of affording it. I might actually be able to swing $800-ish (and I know the pump still works on mine.)
 
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