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My Ford 4000 has been a good starter but recently it has started to be touchy after being neglected for 2 weeks. The symptoms are that the heater seems to work fine and there is an initial blueish cloud of smoke, followed by none. If it starts in the first blast, all is well, otherwise it labors to get fuel I suspect. I have tried bleeding air but it doesn't seem (at these times) to be pushing fuel. I have replaced and fixed nearly everything, but the fuel injector pump is a mystery. Has anyone taken one apart? And successfully put it back together? I see the advice to bring the pump to a shop, but that is quite a bit of disassembly already.

I liked it when I just went out and turned the key, waited 30 seconds for the heater, and started it.
 

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I'm ignorant when it comes to injector pumps (although I have a friend that has one that needs some attention, so... it'd behoove me to learn something about 'em).

I did move your post into a thread, all its own, for a little better visibility. Hopefully someone will be along, directly, that can help you out.
 

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You can get an I&T shop manual for a Fords 4000 from ebay for about $25.

From my shop manual:
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FUEL REACHING NOZZLES, BUT ENGINE WILL NOT START.

If, when lines are disconnected at fuel nozzles and engine is cranked, fuel will flow from connections, but engine will not start, check the following:

Check cranking speed.
Check throttle control rod adjustment.
Check pump timing.
Check fuel lines and connections for pressure leakage.
Check engine compression.
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ENGINE HARD TO START.

If the engine is hard to start, check the following:

Check cranking speed.
Bleed fuel filters.
Check for clogged fuel filters.
Check for water in the fuel, or improper fuel.
Check for air leaks on suction side of injection pump.
Check engine compression.
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Note that the FIRST item on both lists is CRANKING SPEED.

You need a big, high amperage battery that doesn't wear down - I think your tractor calls for a 4DLT Battery. Your starter needs to be in top condition. All of your starter connections (including grounds) need to be clean. The starter needs to be well grounded.
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I've had both my injection pump and injectors rebuilt about 18 years ago, and they still work fine. This was done by a specialist in a shop.
 

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You need specialized tools to set the flow and pressures, take them to a shop setup to do this kind of work.
 

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def. does sound like a fuel system problem. you don't see any leaking in the system, like somewhere where air could get in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No, I don't think there is leaking. I went over and talked with the Tractor Mechanic in the area and he thought that it would not be the fuel injector since he says "that after running fine and not cutting out after an hour of work, the fuel must be getting through. If you shut off for a few minutes and start again, it should be getting the fuel. It might be a compression problem or that the starter is not getting enough power to start." It is a new starter and solenoid but actually with all the attempts of starting the solenoid started sticking engaged. I now have the starter to contend with first and then I can get back to the other problem.
 

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You can remove the preheater or the air intake connection and start the engine with WD40. If it continues to run, I would suspect your injection pump is leaking internally and the higher cranking speed of the WD40 will enable it to function. A worn pump will also be susceptible to hot fuel on a re-start. Keep in mind that these pumps were made in the era of fuel with 5000PPM sulphur, the newer fuels that have been hydrotreated will cause wear unless the proper supplements are used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
will cause wear unless the proper supplements are used.
Wow, that is news to me. Can you point me to what are the proper supplements?

You can remove the preheater or the air intake connection and start the engine with WD40. If it continues to run, I would suspect your injection pump is leaking internally and the higher cranking speed of the WD40 will enable it to function.
I am missing the trick here and it sound like a great one. If I am squirting WD40 in the hole where the preheater was, then presumably that is very little actual oil getting into the injectors. Since this is above the injection pump how do is have any effect on the cranking speed of the pump?

Sounds just like the tip I need but I am not certain I understand.
 

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Spraying WD40 into the preheater or air intake bypasses the injectors completely. Getting a little WD40 into the cylinders via the air intake can cause the engine to fire a little bit on the WD40 as the fuel, which will give some kick to the engine and hopefully get it to turn faster than with just the starter, and that is what will make the pump turn faster.
 

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I liked it when I just went out and turned the key, waited 30 seconds for the heater, and started it.
mweissie,
How is your heater wired to get power?? You stated that you turn the key "on" and wait for 30 seconds before cranking. There should be a pushbutton on the dashboard to apply power to the heater element??

WD-40 serves as a fuel to burn to get the engine started (basically same as your heater puts warm/vaporised diesel into the intake manifold to get the engine started).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The heater on this is the standard one that has a wire from the starter position on the key switch. When in that position + is put to the heater which has a clear hose running to the fuel tank. I am "presuming" that this puts diesel or fumes (or some capillary draw) directly to the heater when it is on and therefore gives the same result as you stated. That would give the result I see. A blast of blue smoke that may start and then clear for a while. If the blue continues, it will start.
 

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That particular tractor uses a flame type heater in the intake manifold. Turning the key to the left heats up a glow coil which opens a fuel valve. When the engine is cranked, fuel from the pump return drips on the coil and starts a fire in the manifold. That system is only needed in weather that is substantially below freezing.
 

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I just had my Ford 300 Injector pump rebuilt last year for a cost of $1000 by a speciallty shop. Ouch! But I'm told that because of the EPA, just anyone can not touch them! I looked and looked for a rebuilt or used one to no avail except for rebuilt ones at about $1200!!!

This is interesting because just today I was trying to re-connect my manifold heater but the tubing on the tank end has been disconnected for a very long time! There's a tee in the line from the heater near the tank fuel return line but does the tubing connect to it? And then where did the second part of the tee tube too?
 

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I forgot to mention that I disconnected the fuel lines at the injectors and it was obvious that there was no fuel coming from the injector pump. Be careful about putting your finger over that pump outlet etc. Very high momentary pressure there !
 

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Millejo1,

The "tee" you refer to is connected as follows:

1. First downward connection goes to the injectors.
2. Second downward connection (middle connection) goes to the heater.
3. Horizontal connection goes to the fuel tank neck.

Hope this makes sense to you. Incidentally, you can obtain a new fuel injection pump for a Ford 3000 for $795 from cheaptractorparts.com on ebay. Probably Chinese manufacture.
 

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Thanks for the info sixbales !!! Kinda late for the pump huh? Always my luck ! I'm happy though because I know where the guy lives that rebuilt mine :)

And yes, that makes perfect sense about the tubings. I guess I should test the heater before I put all the top sheet metal on. Got the tie rods off this eve and will put them back on tomorrow.

My wiring is shot so I am going to rewire it all before I put the sheet metal on anyway. I plan on just hooking
12 V up to the heater and seeing if it gets hot and opens up. I havent decided where I am going to hook the hot too. Book shows it hooked to the starter circuit. Don't know if I like that though. Might put a pushbutton on the console. :thanku:

Again, thanks for the info !!
 
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