Ford 4000 power steering cylinder
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Hi Ron,
Yes, the power steering cylinders can be rebuilt. Rebuild kits cost $25-$35.
I obtained kits locally (and paid about $45), but I'm sure you can find them online.
Replacement cylinders cost about $225 online.
One place to try is cheaptractorparts.com - I anticipate that others on this forum can refer you to other sites.
One thing you will need is a spanner wrench to remove the end cap where the rod comes out. You can find these on ebay and other places, but get one that fits correctly.
The spanner you need is a face pin type. Critical dimensions are pin diameter (measure the diameter of holes in the end cap) and span width (measure approximate distance between holes on end cap).
Another thing to check on and be aware of is the rod diameter on your cylinder. On my tractor I can get a cylinder with a 5/8" rod or one with a 1/2" rod. You need to know your size in case this question arises
Yes, the power steering cylinders can be rebuilt. Rebuild kits cost $25-$35.
I obtained kits locally (and paid about $45), but I'm sure you can find them online.
Replacement cylinders cost about $225 online.
One place to try is cheaptractorparts.com - I anticipate that others on this forum can refer you to other sites.
One thing you will need is a spanner wrench to remove the end cap where the rod comes out. You can find these on ebay and other places, but get one that fits correctly.
The spanner you need is a face pin type. Critical dimensions are pin diameter (measure the diameter of holes in the end cap) and span width (measure approximate distance between holes on end cap).
Another thing to check on and be aware of is the rod diameter on your cylinder. On my tractor I can get a cylinder with a 5/8" rod or one with a 1/2" rod. You need to know your size in case this question arises
On my cylinder, the rod is 7/8" dia., the rod end cap does not have any spanner pin holes and is welded to the cylinder barrel. The tail end (or the end that attaches to the steering gearbox arm) has 4 bolts holding that assembly (with the hydraulic hoses) to the cylinder barrel. It appears to me that by removing those 4 bolts, and taking the rod end loose from the steering arm at the wheel, that the piston would come out to be rebuilt with new piston seals. All the kits that I have been able to find all are either 1/2" or 5/8" rod like you said. What cylinder do I have?
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Does it look like this:
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If so, it's in my parts manual as a power steering cylinder for the early (1965 - 1970) 3 cylinder general purpose Ag chassis 4000 (4100).
If so, it's in my parts manual as a power steering cylinder for the early (1965 - 1970) 3 cylinder general purpose Ag chassis 4000 (4100).
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642 Posts
Sorry Ron, I'm not familiar with this type cylinder setup.
You are probably right - by removing those 4 bolts, and taking the rod end loose from the steering arm up front, the piston should come out for rebuilding/new seals.
I don't know how you will get the rod seals in (but I'm sure there's a way to do it) - you need to get a manual.
Probably have to go to a Ford/NH dealer for a rebuild kit.
Please keep us posted as to how it goes!!
You are probably right - by removing those 4 bolts, and taking the rod end loose from the steering arm up front, the piston should come out for rebuilding/new seals.
I don't know how you will get the rod seals in (but I'm sure there's a way to do it) - you need to get a manual.
Probably have to go to a Ford/NH dealer for a rebuild kit.
Please keep us posted as to how it goes!!
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That looks like it's the one that I posted the picture from my parts manual for a few posts back. The part number for the entire cylinder assembly is C5NN3A540C. The part number for the cylinder seal kit is CFPN3301A, which includes everything that is grouped together under item number 2 in the picture that I posted above. That is the rod end of the cylinder as far as I can tell. You should still be able to get the kit from your local New Holland dealer, but it may be pricey.
I took the cylinder off and took it to the local Ford/New Hololand dealer with the cylinder number and the seal kit number. He looked in all his books and couldn't find anything like it. Said some of these were 'dealer installed options' and that I would have to know the brand of the cylinder. I told him thanks anyway and took it to a hydraulic cylinder repair shop (Nor-Tex Hydraulic) in McKinney, Texas. That was 2 days ago. I just called and they have it ready (had to order in seals). I'll pick it up in the morning and see how it goes. Thanks all for the info. BTW, I did some searching for the seal kit and found one at Helms Tractor Parts in Sumter, South Carolina. Too late now to order it and do it myself. Ron
The power steering cylinder saga continues! I got the cylinder back from the rebuilders today, installed with all new hoses, filled the reservoir with fluid, bled the lines, and fired the tractor up. Steering real hard at first but I figured I had air in everything. Kept working the steering wheel back and forth and was doing pretty good. Decided I probably should top off the reservoir. Reservoir was empty. O.K., well the cylinder must have held more than I figured so I topped it off again. Ran It around for about 3 minutes and checked it again. EMPTY AGAIN. I pulled the engine dipstick and was WAAAY over full. Must have blown a seal in the pump. Just ordered a seal kit. Will continue. Wife very unhappy. She had stated before,when I was looking for a tractor to replace my injured (blown piston) Massey 135 diesel, that we wasn't going to get something that I had to work on first to use. I assured her before I bought it that this was a good one. So much for my credibility, huh..
I have this same type of power steering cylinder. I have it disconnected from the end of the piston rod. I'm not good at reading the breakout diagrams. So may question is about getting access to replace the seal parts. I have ordered the repair parts listed in this thread. I find no way to take the end of the cylinder off, and I do not want to try to get into the rear part with the four bolts. From reading a shop manual I purchased, if it understand it correctly I need to pry out the old end piece and then that will give me access to the snap ring. Can someone please help me with some detailed instructions or video of how to install the piston rod seals only without having to take the entire cylinder apart? I'm going to try to post a photo of the end of the cylinder.
Jim
Jim
Attachments
You pry off the plastic scraper (#5), then remove the snap ring (#6).
Now you have access to parts #7, 8, 9 and 10, remove those and put them in order on the side.
Wind some electrical tape over the threads and the sharp edge on the rod.
Put the new parts in place, in the order you have the old ones on the side.
Remove the tape.
Done!
Now you have access to parts #7, 8, 9 and 10, remove those and put them in order on the side.
Wind some electrical tape over the threads and the sharp edge on the rod.
Put the new parts in place, in the order you have the old ones on the side.
Remove the tape.
Done!
Attachments
Thank you.
I guess I missed the step for using the tape. I got it all cleaned out and got all the parts pushed back in so I could get the snap ring installed correctly. It lasted about 5 minutes before it started leaking again. Due to the price, I'll probably try to fix it one more time before I seen a new upgrade cylinder system. Right now I have the cylinder by-passed with a connector so i do not burn up the pump and I can use the tractor with manual steering.
I guess I missed the step for using the tape. I got it all cleaned out and got all the parts pushed back in so I could get the snap ring installed correctly. It lasted about 5 minutes before it started leaking again. Due to the price, I'll probably try to fix it one more time before I seen a new upgrade cylinder system. Right now I have the cylinder by-passed with a connector so i do not burn up the pump and I can use the tractor with manual steering.
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Walt's Tractor has a rebuilt cylinder, but it's a bit pricey at $1425.00, but that includes the $300.00 core charge that you'll get beck when you send them your old one:
Rebuilt power steering cylinder at Walt's
tractor-part.com shows a couple of salvage yards that have used ones that might be in better shape than yours. You'll have to contact them directly to find out their prices:
C5NN3A540C - Tractor-Part.com
Rebuilt power steering cylinder at Walt's
tractor-part.com shows a couple of salvage yards that have used ones that might be in better shape than yours. You'll have to contact them directly to find out their prices:
C5NN3A540C - Tractor-Part.com
There are rebuilt cylinders:
UF00951 Power Steering Cylinder---Rebuilt
Ford Tractor Original Power Steering Cylinder 3000 3500 4000 4100 4330 4340 | eBay
At that price I would at least expect correct rubber boots in good condition. Perhaps the cylinders are gold plated on the inside...
There are conversion kits for tractors without power steering. You can buy just the cylinder:
Agriline | Tractor Parts | Tractor Spares
Ford Tractor Parts HTF3A491 Power Steering Conversion Assist Kit Cylinder FORD4 | eBay
Perhaps it is possible to use a conversion kit cylinder, but you need to check the measurements and if the original pump's pressure and flow is compatible with the cylinder. It seems like some minor adjustments are required regarding connecting the drag link and rod end.
The cylinder is welded together so you need to cut it apart in order to renew piston sealings, and weld it back together. I would be surprised if it is impossible to find new sealings. Find a good hydraulics expert and discuss the matter.
UF00951 Power Steering Cylinder---Rebuilt
Ford Tractor Original Power Steering Cylinder 3000 3500 4000 4100 4330 4340 | eBay
At that price I would at least expect correct rubber boots in good condition. Perhaps the cylinders are gold plated on the inside...
There are conversion kits for tractors without power steering. You can buy just the cylinder:
Agriline | Tractor Parts | Tractor Spares
Ford Tractor Parts HTF3A491 Power Steering Conversion Assist Kit Cylinder FORD4 | eBay
Perhaps it is possible to use a conversion kit cylinder, but you need to check the measurements and if the original pump's pressure and flow is compatible with the cylinder. It seems like some minor adjustments are required regarding connecting the drag link and rod end.
The cylinder is welded together so you need to cut it apart in order to renew piston sealings, and weld it back together. I would be surprised if it is impossible to find new sealings. Find a good hydraulics expert and discuss the matter.
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The cylinders for the conversion kits might not even match the factory cylinders in length, size and position of mounting hardware, etc. If you are going to try going that route, I would contact the seller and ask for exact dimensions to make sure they match the factory cylinders.
Sorry if I was unclear. I meant just that by: "...you need to check the measurements..."
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