I'm not sure on the 2600/3600/4600 series, but on the 3 cylinder 2000/3000/4000 series there was a fuse in the back of the light switch itself if the tractor was made in either of the European assembly plants ("A" or "B" serial number prefix), but no fuse if it was made in the US ("C" serial number prefix).
Halfway should power just the rear amber/flasher light if it has one. Mine originally had a rear amber/flasher light when I got it, but the lens was missing and the glass of the bulb was broken off so that just the base was left in the socket, and it would cause sparks every time you turned the switch on and off since it's a "C" prefix 4000 and doesn't have a fuse in the light circuit, so I disconnected the light switch until such a time that I have the need to add lights back to it. I never use it in the dark so I haven't seen the need. Then when I added a loader I had to remove the headlights themselves from the sides of the nose of the tractor so the loader arms wouldn't hit them. I'll get around to putting lights back on and wiring the switch bask up one of these days., but it's not a priority. maybe I'll get two of those LED light bars and mount them on the front and rear of the ROPS and wire them up with separate switches so I can have forward and/or rear work lights.
If yours is a "C" prefix serial number and doesn't have a fuse, I would check the wiring itself to make sure that pushing and pulling on the switch didn't make an old original connector on the back of the switch slip out of position or a wire break off of a connector.
Halfway should power just the rear amber/flasher light if it has one. Mine originally had a rear amber/flasher light when I got it, but the lens was missing and the glass of the bulb was broken off so that just the base was left in the socket, and it would cause sparks every time you turned the switch on and off since it's a "C" prefix 4000 and doesn't have a fuse in the light circuit, so I disconnected the light switch until such a time that I have the need to add lights back to it. I never use it in the dark so I haven't seen the need. Then when I added a loader I had to remove the headlights themselves from the sides of the nose of the tractor so the loader arms wouldn't hit them. I'll get around to putting lights back on and wiring the switch bask up one of these days., but it's not a priority. maybe I'll get two of those LED light bars and mount them on the front and rear of the ROPS and wire them up with separate switches so I can have forward and/or rear work lights.
If yours is a "C" prefix serial number and doesn't have a fuse, I would check the wiring itself to make sure that pushing and pulling on the switch didn't make an old original connector on the back of the switch slip out of position or a wire break off of a connector.
