Ford 3000 PTO does not turn

7D21 is a date code that means the tractor left the assembly line on April 21, 1967. B069616 is the serial number, and the B at the beginning means that it was assembled at the plant in Basildon in the UK. 069616 is a low serial number, but the European serial numbers are not as well documented as the US serial numbers are. I do have a document that shows that the Basildon export serial numbers were in the B08xxxx range at around April 1, 1968, so 069616 is probably correct for 4/21/1967.

There should be a third number on that flat spot on the bell housing, but it is probably up in the rough part of the casting and will not be as easy to find or read. That third number is the model number and will tell us whether it is supposed to have live or trans PTO. The 3000 with the 8 speed transmission could have either type of PTO.

Transmission driven PTO means that when the PTO lever is in the "engaged" position, that the PTO only gets power when the clutch pedal is all of the way out and the transmission is also getting power, but the transmission could be in neutral or in any gear and the PTO will still get power as long as the clutch is out.

Live PTO means that the tractor has a dual stage clutch, and when you let the clutch pedal half way out the first stage of the clutch is engaged, which provides power to the PTO only, and when you let the pedal out the whole way both stages are engaged so that the transmission and the PTO both are receiving power. Again, it shouldn't matter whether the transmission is in neutral or any particular gear.

With either type of PTO the speed of the PTO should be directly proportional to the engine rpm's.

In either case, it sounds like the coupling or the linkage from the handle to the coupling is not working correctly. You should be able to remove the round plate that the PTO handle is mounted on to see what's going on inside there.

I went back to check further and despite scrubbing the whole area clean I just couldn't find those other numbers. I played around a little further and noted 2 things:
1) When I press that clutch pedal by hand I do notice a distinct point maybe halfway down where it feels like it could be activating another clutch (my legs are far stronger than my arms and I simply didn't feel it before)
2) When I gently pull the PTO lever to engage it with the tractor running, in neutral, and my foot OFF the clutch, a I notice what feels like teeth or splines trying to engage.

Any guesses with this additional information?

When you engage the lever with the clutch out in neutral, does it make a grinding noise? If not, how are you determining that you sense teeth or splines trying to engage? If it is operating properly it should grind trying to engage with the clutch out, whether in gear or in neutral. If it allows you to move the lever to the engaged position with the clutch out without grinding then there is most likely something broken inside, most probably the PTO shaft at the back of the transmission that the slide coupler engages when you move the handle. The original symptom of only spinning about 20 rpm's and being able to stop it with your hand (which is actually a very dangerous thing to try) made me think that, but we can't be sure until you at least pull off that round plate where the PTO handle is mounted to see what's going on inside there. You might get a little fluid out of the hole when you pull the round plate as the fluid level is usually right around the bottom of the plate or maybe a little higher.

Thanks for the continuing assistance! I just got back from looking into things further and here is what I found:
I removed the PTO engagement lever and fork assembly and everything is good there. The sliding coupling has good teeth and it meshes properly with both the PTO output shaft and the splined collar that it engages into when you pull the lever to engage the PTO. With my buddy turning the PTO shaft at the rear of the tractor by hand I was able to properly engage and disengage the sliding coupling and see everything working. Unfortunately when I put the transmission into gear and took my foot off the clutch with the sliding coupling in the "engaged" position my buddy is still able to turn that PTO by hand with very little effort. I could see all of the parts that are visible at that time turning together properly. At this point with the tractor in gear and my foot off the clutch and the PTO engaged, should I not have a direct, mechanical connection throughout the system? In other words, we should not be able to turn that PTO by hand, right? I suspect my dreams of fixing this without splitting the tractor just went down the toilet!

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Looks like a tractor split is in my near future. I am surprised that a clutch can be so worn that you can just grab that PTO and spin it with one hand. Perhaps I will find something else broken once I open it all up. This may actually be better as I would be able to grab a replacement from a tractor wrecker, rather than having to buy a new clutch assembly. For those of you in the States, you have no idea what kind of horrible prices we pay for parts here in Canada!

I'd be tickled if it was something like a fork, as I can get one from a wrecker and be on my way. A clutch kit will cost me about $500 US (shipped to Buffalo where I would go to pick it up). Locally the kit is $1458 (Canadian funds, taxes included). We are going to split it on Saturday and finally see what the issue is. I will be sure to take a good look at the fork. Thanks!

My son and I split the tractor today, and it went quite smoothly. Well, except for the one starter bolt that is hidden behind the starter which was an absolute bear to get at. We eventually figured out a way to use a universal joint, several extensions, a 3/8 ratchet, some masking tape and 2 guys to get at it, but it worked! By mid afternoon she was split and the clutch assembly was out. The PTO disk did not have a trace of friction material on it. It was just a round disk of very thin metal, which explains why I could turn that PTO by hand when it was supposedly engaged. All I need to do now is order up a new clutch kit and make a quick trip to Niagara Falls (on the States side) to pick it up, and hopefully a day of wrenching will have it all put back together and working. Thanks again for all the help!

We checked things over and everything else looks good. We will however do the rear main seal as its so easy to get at now (although there is very little oil on that rear engine plate and inside the bellhousing, it seems to be good insurance for just a few bucks). I researched those seals, and it gets interesting. The Ford service manual refers to 3 different seals (2 red ones and a black one), all of which have different depths that they are installed at. The I&T manual only refers to one seal, and it says to drive it in 0.060 inch. The one in our tractor is a Ford seal (it has the Ford logo and part numbers CSNE-6701-B2 and SGA 40943), its orange in colour, and it is installed flush. Any suggestions on how to deal with whatever seal gets sent to me along with the clutch kit? Or do they typically have some instructions that come with them?

I can't really be of help, but this thread with helpful to me, I don't own the machine that has this problem, I am currently looking at buying a ford 3000 diesel. the version I am looking at has the live pto. according to the dealer who has it on consignment the 2-stage clutch does not engage the pto, at all. he says, the dealership rep, quote "The serial number is B067880 so it was built in Basildon England. It is the 8x2 transmission with live PTO and diff lock. The two stage clutch is not working properly. It may be possible to remove the steering box and adjust the pressure plate, otherwise the tractor would need to be split to repair or replace the clutch."
A 2-stage clutch replacement kit looks in the neighborhood of $500. After reading this thread it looks like a process requiring a good amount of expertise. The tractor, with loader, and 4129 hours, was only 5k. guess i know why.

That is what happened to my family's tractor. The clutch went, then the fork split down the middle and going to have to rewire the whole tractor because of my grandfather's friend (his friend did it for beer)
Right now it is in our garage in multiple pieces (the back of the tractor/ front of it with fuel tank and other pieces)

I ordered up the clutch kit which is very reasonably priced in the States and drove to Buffalo yesterday to pick it up. I discovered that the installation tool (which is made of relatively soft plastic) and the rear main seal (which is a sheet metal shape covered in rubber) were simply placed in a box, along with a 48 pound piece of steel, which was then jostled around the interior of trucks for god knows how long. What could possibly go wrong? After 15 minutes with a sharp knife I was able to carve away the splines on the installation tool that had been crushed flat by the clutch assembly. There was nothing I could do for the seal which had also been crushed. I just had the supreme pleasure of going to the local dealer, where after tax I had a new seal for a mere $73.74. I would gladly have paid extra shipping to send fragile items separately. It just never occurred to me that anyone who ships these things all day long would do something like this.

I sent off an email to YT to register my displeasure, and to suggest that packaging items that way is not a good idea. We hope to get at the clutch on Saturday, and I will post the results.

I am curious to see how the procedure goes - I love the fact that things made in the 60s-70s were made to last - and when problems did pop up, and parts were present, it wasn't an enormous project to repair. Perhaps I should re-focus my search parameters to something in the 20-30hp range with less than 20 yrs/3000 hrs on it. But that doesn't seem to provide any true guarantees either. Ah, the intricate world of buying used equipment. I have my eye on a ford 2120 that was previously owned by a school. Theres a JD 855 with an L70A also previously owned by school at nearby dealership. Only $7900!

Success! (sort of)......we installed the new clutch assembly and buttoned her back up. Both the PTO and the transmission clutches engage nicely, and all of that seems to be good. We also did the rear main seal while it was open. I did however get lazy, and did not do the transmission seals as I did not see anything obviously leaking. Big mistake. After I run it for a couple of minutes and shut it down, I get a small puddle ( a tablespoon) of what appears to be transmission oil underneath that drain hole that has the cotter pin in it. I understand that the purpose of the hole/pin is to allow the drainage of any oil in the bellhousing. So here is my dumb question: If that oil drain hole is left clean and open, will it be ok to leave alone, or am I going to destroy my nice new clutches if I do this? (In other words, do I have to split this darn thing again and find/fix the oil leak, or can I live with it????).