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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks

Have a problem with my sons 1967 Ford 3000 tractor. The front axle pivot pin is froze in the housing. The pivot bushings in the axle is shot and the pin spacer sleeve may be worn from the excessive bushing play. The axle bushing is worn so badly that it has broken the bolts in the yokes of the radius rods trying to hold the swept back axle straight.

Long story but right now we are doing an engine overhaul and I have the entire front axle casting, axle and wheels off the tractor. The prior owner never put the pivot pin keeper plate back on so it must of been froze in there for some time.

I have tried heating it with a map gas torch to a measures 300 F totally thru both sides of the front support casting, soaked it in penetrating oil for a week and tonight used a 1” impact wrench that can develop 1,500 ft # of torque and nothing. It is froze in there. The spacer sleeve bushing that goes over the pivot pin may be froze on the pin as well as the pivot pin threads froze in the casting.

A few questions.

1. I’m assuming the pivot pin is right hand thread? Yes/No?

2. Any ideas on how to get the pin to break loose?

3. If I have to resort to cutting the spacer and pin out of the support casting to get the axle out and then sawing the pivot pin in 2 parts to chisel it way from the casting, is the pivot spacer hard or too hard to saw?

Here are some pic’s so you know what vintage I’m talking about.

This is the pivot pin and axle still attached to the engine




Thanks

John
 

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With all the heating and I presume pounding with a BFH to try an loosen it, then I would say cutting is the only way to proceed at this time. May be someone else will have a better idea but I think you have already tried the most likely suggestions. Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
John,

I don't think 300 degrees is hot enough. Heat it till it's glowing red on both ends
I know, I don't think so either. I do not have an acetylene setup but I have a small propane/oxygen brazing setup I can try. It is a fine tip but may be able to get hotter.


With all the heating and I presume pounding with a BFH to try an loosen it, then I would say cutting is the only way to proceed at this time. May be someone else will have a better idea but I think you have already tried the most likely suggestions. Good luck with it.
Thanks JohnW. I did not bring out the BFH yet but have a beast of a 1’ impact wrench on it and it ain’t moving, yet.

I’ll try more heat and if that does not do it, I will use my Sawzall thru the hollow pin and saw cut the pin down the entire center to allow the PB Blaster to penetrate better and hopes the impact wrench will collapse it enough to break free.

Won’t get to it until this weekend but anyone else have an idea I’m willing to listen.

Thanks

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Folks

I know some have been inquiring how the axle pin deal has been going. Well today we have victory!!! Work and camping have put me behind but we are now on a quest to get this tractor rebuilt before winter.

Here is the axle and how I ended up getting the pin out. It was froze in solid both in the threads and the axle pin to the hardened steel bushing. There is no lube at all in this setup and over time it has no choice but to rust together. It may get a grease fitting before this is all said and done.

Here is the axle itself with the pivot pin froze in solid. The hex keeper plate to go over the axle pin was missing long ago by the prior owner. They may have tried to get it out gave up and left the keeper go. Now need a new keeper plate are well or make one.




I came up with a method to cut out the axle pin in segments. Here is how I did it. The tool of choice.




The pin is cast steel. It cuts without too much problem. I slit it the entire length once being very care full to not cut the threads in the axle casting.






Once slit I sprayed PB blaster in all over and tried it with again with the 1” impact. It broke free.


However I saw it stop moving back after about 1/2 a revolution and I stopped impacting. I have a new pin and the threads are very fine thread. The threads in the main casting are also cast and cast fine threads cannot take much abuse. So I decided to slit the pin 2 more times to make 3 segments. The axle pin was frozen solid to the hardened pivot bushing and as such the pin will not come out. Trying to jack it out with the rusted bushing to the axle, the rust may still win and the casting threads loose, so I cut it again. Then with a cold chisel and hammer knock the one segment to the center and pulled it out.


Then the 2nd and 3rd. Now all out




Now the axle and casting are separated.


Here is the new pin, axle liner bushing and the old hardened bushing. The hardened bushing to the axle pin only has about 0.003 clearance. It does not take much to rust together with no lube over time. The cast pin and hard bushing make a bearing surface but lube is still needed in some capacity to stop the rusting I would think. Any one know why they made this to run dry?

The hardened steel bushing is worn 0.020 on the OD and the bushing insert in the axle itself is worn 0.060. Making 0.080 slop. That is why the axle is so sloppy and we are breaking bolts in the axle radius rods as the swept back axle is twisted so. I can tell with new parts the clearance may only be about 0.005 maybe 0.010 at the most. The new axle bushing has a bronze liner and still no lube.



Son needs to get the new hardened bushing and the hex pivot bolt keeper yet. The rest of the engine parts are now back from the machine shop so we are busy this week rebuilding the engine.

Hope this helps someone else in the future

Good luck

John
 

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Outstanding report John! Thank you for detailing the operation as you have.

I have to change the axle pin one of these days on a Ford 3600 and I've been concerned, expecting exactly what you encountered.
 

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Sometimes the HARD way is the only way, but the important thing is YOU GOT IT!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys.

I will say this, I'm glad it was a hollow pin and not hard. The hard bushing that slides over the axle pin is really hard. A file will not touch that.

John
 

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Sometimes the HARD way is the only way, but the important thing is YOU GOT IT!
you got that right. reminds me of the umpteen dozen dang broke bolts and studs Ihad to drill, extract, chase, and sometimes rethread on my 950.

soundguy
 

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Impressive ! Hope mine holds up for years to come! Just in case though, where did you say your house is? :)
 
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