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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Guys, I'm new to this forum so hopefully I'm in the right area. I was asked by a friend who runs a christian camp to see If I could look at there ford 2000 hydraulics as they were not working full stop. Now I'm guessing most are going to want to know what model/year etc but the only numbers I can find don't match to what fords code system are. I'm looking in the right place and these are the numbers/letters I have.

1st set is hard to read but looks like this 6C47B
2nd set C216
3rd B*036928*

It's the 3cyl gas model

So far I Removed the top cover under the seat to remove the return and suction filters. (along with the skin off my knuckles) To get the suction filter out I had to split it in half as pulling out the pto inspection plate was no help. The filters were completely blocked with sludge due to water being in the oil. I have replaced the filters and put new oil in that meet the ford specs from mobil. Also removed two plugs on the pump hoping it just needed priming but with the tractor running no oil came out. I'm hoping it's not a pump issue as they dont have much money to spend on it.

Now what I'm guessing is the 3x5 plate that sits on the top cover looks to maybe have a old spool valve in it. DSC03721.jpg



Any other thoughts on where to next would be much appreciated. Thanks Rowan
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well I took the end plate off the pump today and removed plungers and the ball bearings. Checked everything in there and all looks ok. Assembled it and tried it and the lift arms went all the way up:fing32:. The problem I have now is they wont go down...... Any ideas??:dunno:
 

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Glad to hear you made some progress.

As for the identification, the B at the beginning of the serial number means that it was made at the Basildon assembly plant in the UK, and the The 6C47B is most likely 6C17B, which would say that it left the assembly line on March 17, 1966 during the day shift. The European serial numbers are not as well documented on the internet as the ones from the US, so I don't have anywhere to look up exactly what year that serial number is from, but the rest of the serial number looks to be an early one, so that generally agrees with the 1966 date code.

They sometimes put the model number on the other side of the tractor in the European plants, so look at the same flat spot on the left side of the tractor and post the numbers you find there.

As to the arms sticking in the up position, that is usually a sticking unloader valve. You can try moving the remote handle back and forth with the engine stopped to see if the arms will go down any, and if they do it is almost certainly the unloader valve sticking or an adjustment. You can get a complete top cover repair kit (o-rings, gasket and such) and the I&T shop manual for around $40.00 for both:

Lift cover repair kit for 1965-1975 3 cylinder Fords

I & T FO-31 shop manual for 1965-1975 3 cylinder Fords
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for that Nouveau *******,

I have had a look on the other side for some numbers but I cant see any and the pump sits right on top as well.

I will endeavor to pull the top of to get that valve out on friday.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I pulled the lid off last night and pulled that vlve out. I think on of the holes was blocked in it. Anyway I think it's all going now but my next problem is while I was testing it the engine started running rough then eventually died and now wont start. I've pulled carb of and cleaned it checked it for fuel and everythings fine.
 

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Mine started running rough shortly after starting it the other day and and then died shortly after that. I think mine was due to water in the fuel from condensation over the winter, as I didn't use it any for several months over the winter. I added some seafoam and some dry gas and got it to fire up and then I ran it almost empty and put all fresh gas in it. It's been fine since.

If you're sure you've got good gas then the next thing to check is the spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I'm still none the wiser as to why the engine is running rough. I removed the tank and flushed it put new fuel in again, cleaned the filter on the lift pump and still the same. I will look at the spark side when I get a timing light. I did all that a few weeks ago to get it running and had it purring then all of a sudden it's started playing up.
 

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Check your Air filter and intake tube to make sure that it's not clogged up with a birds nest or mouse nest, or something similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea I have the hose off the goes onto the carb. Just seems to not be getting fuel. After cranking the plugs are as dry as. Any suggestions??
 

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If you've got fuel to the carb, and the spark plugs are completely dry after cranking it, then there's got to be something wrong in the carb

If you've got the air tube off at the carb, try spraying starter fluid into the carb when you crank it. if it fires then the spark is good. Once you know the spark is good then the only thing left is fuel and air. There are a few reasons why fuel may not be getting into the cylinders.

That is an updraft carb setup, so it usually needs a lot of choke to get it to suck enough gas up to the intake manifold to start it, maybe the choke linkage isn't adjusted correctly.

Another possibility is that the jets in the carb are clogged even though you say you cleaned the carb. Did you run a fine wire through the jets? Did you check the accelerator pump to see if it's jammed or the spring is broken. Although the accelerator pump shouldn't keep it from starting, just from being able to throttle up once it is started, but if it's really bad it might keep it from starting.
 
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