My Tractor Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
3,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Ford 2000 3 cyl diesel is dripping hyd fluid. It's leaking from a tube just in front of the brake shaft. I thought I would see if I could get some idea of what is involved in the repair before I start taking stuff apart.
Cannon
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
Joined
·
9,555 Posts
Could you provide a picture from a little further away? I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking at. It looks like it is part of a remote valve assembly, and if so, it would depend on which exact remote valve it is, as they did not come with them stock and Ford made a few different designs of remotes and there were third party remote valves available as well.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
More pictures. I don't know how the 90 degree fitting is attached to the tractor or how the tube is attached to it. The parts drawing I found looks like the fitting may be threaded and screw in. If that's the case I don't see how the tube could be permanently attached to the fitting. Is it possible that the tube slids into the fitting and has an Oring? The tube goes to what I think must be the hydrolic pump.
Cannon
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
3,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think the O-ring may be #86629540 according to a drawing I found on Messick's site. I wonder if there's enough flex in the tube to slide it out of the fitting and replace the oring without disturbing the connection at the pump.
Cannon
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
9,555 Posts
OK, now I understand. Thanks for the additional pictures. Looks like you have the later style of lines between the rear end and the hydraulic pump. In the earlier style both lines were one part number with a single manifold at the rear end.

That fatter line is the suction line and it is only held in place and sealed by that o-ring, which you got the part number correct on, 86629540.

You may have enough play to pull the line out of the fitting to replace the o-ring without disturbing the other end of the line at the pump, but check to see if there are any brackets or clamps holding the line in place or holding the two lines to each other along their length first, and if there are, remove those first.

I think that there is a groove inside the fitting for the o-ring to ride in, and if so I think you're supposed to put the o-ring in place in that groove first and then apply a thin coating of oil to the outside of the tube and slide it in. If you put the o-ring on the outside of the tube and try to slide it in then I don't think it will fit inside the fitting and will end up just sliding farther up the tube.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
9,555 Posts
I would drain it, or at least put a 5 gallon bucket under it when you pull the line out of the fitting, as at least some fluid is likely to come out. If the pickup tube inside is sealed good to the case then it might siphon most of it out.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I finely got around to starting on this Ford 2000. I removed the brake pedals and foot board so I could clean it up in the area I was working. When I got down to the fittings and had it clean I cranked the tractor. I found that I was wrong about where the fluid was coming from. It was coming from the small tube fitting above the square 90 degree fitting. I got a one inch wrench and found that the fitting was loose, after tightening it about 1/3 round it stopped leaking. I need to clean up the whole tractor but my cheapo pressure washer chose this time die. Motor runs but no pressure.
Thanks
Cannon
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
Joined
·
9,555 Posts
That smaller line is the pressure line coming back from the pump. Glad to hear that tightening the nut stopped the leak. There's a compression ring that slides onto the line and then the nut tightens the compression ring against the line to seal it up, and sometimes the compression ring and/or the end of the line are scored or deformed to where they wont seal no mater how tight you turn the nut. In those cases you need to buy a replacement nut and ring and cut a little bit off of the end of the line and then it'll seal good when you tighten the nut.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top