My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

Last summer I purchased a Ford 100 Lawn Tractor for $500. It came with the original paperwork, operator's manual, along with a snow blade and an additional mower deck. Unfortunately, the engine was locked up due to exposure to the elements. I hired a local mechanic to rebuild the motor and get the tractor going again. Unfortunately, due to health issues, he was forced to abandon the project.

I just finished moving all the parts back to my shop and am attempting to "restart" the project. I have some questions, so hopefully you all can point me in the right direction:

1. Any idea on the year of this tractor? Please see the serial plate photo.
2. Are there any good parts diagrams which could help me in disassembling and reassembling the unit? I was considering picking up this parts manual from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/100-Garden-Tractor-Parts-Manual/dp/B07J63C2QV
3. I was planning to focus on rebuilding the engine first. Once the engine is complete, then I was planning on focusing on the body. Has anyone documented a similar restoration project with step-by-step photos? I've searched and found a lot of "before & after" photos, but nothing that shows step-by-step with exception to isavetractors.com's Ford 120 restoration on Youtube. Even in those videos, it's pretty obvious that certain steps were glossed over (body work, total reassembly, etc.).
4. I noticed that the steering is very loose. Is there a rebuild kit or guide for this issue?

Many thanks in advance for your help and advice. I imagine I will be referring to this site frequently in the months ahead.

Best,
Paul

20190126_112936.jpg

20190126_112946.jpg

20190126_113009.jpg

20190126_113058.jpg

20190126_113142.jpg

20190126_113353.jpg
 

·
OLD TIRED CDN. MECHANIC
Joined
·
9,012 Posts
Is the engine still assembled? That's an old Kohler K and they are tough as nails. It's quite possibly just stuck, not siezed.

Remove the spark plug and pour diesel in the hole and let it soak. Do this a few times over a couple days and you may well break it free with a socket and bar. The diesel will just end up in the crankcase and drain out when you change the oil before attempting to start it.

A rebuild is always good, but may not be necessary yet as it's barely over 50yrs old and Kohler knew how to build them back then.

Kohler K manual:

. View attachment KOHLER K SERIES K91, K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341 SERVICE MANUAL.pdf

. View attachment Kohler_Owner's_Manual_Single_Cylinder_K241_K301_K321_K341.pdf
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
5,044 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thank you all for the responses. Yes, the engine was partially disassembled. I will attempt to clean the cylinder bore and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the heads-up on the fordjacobsentractor.com website. I will definitely check it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I hope everyone is having a great Memorial Day weekend! I wanted to give you all an update of my progress and then get your input on finding some parts.

I was able to get another friend to help me with this project. He’s had some experience working on and restoring other tractors. It turned out that the engine needed to be bored out and the crankshaft journal turned. The motor is back together. I'll attach some pics of our progress.


With the frame and some of the body parts now painted, we came up with a list of parts that we need for reassembly. One the biggest hurdles we are facing is with the steering. The steering rod and pinion assembly is pretty much shot. I don’t think we will be able to reuse those components. Using the Ford 100 parts manual that came with the tractor, here’s a list of the parts we need. I imagine they are “Ford Part Numbers” and not Jacobsen Part Numbers. Perhaps you all can help me cross them over, if necessary.

315315 - Bushing/Steering Rod
315393 - Bushing/Steering Quad Pivot
315313 - Bushing/Steering Rod
153467 - Steering Rod & Pinion
341829 - Collar
412013 - Screw
107963 - Steering Support Bracket
108557 - Fuel Shut Off
153538 - Brake Band
463003 - Key
445512 - Nut
316802 - x2 Tire Cap
107917 - Ammeter
343015 - Belt Starter/Gen
343017 - Belt Trans
331532 - Seat Back Cushion
342593 -Block Battery
440050 - x2 Bolt
342590 - x2 Bolt
445215 - x2 Nut
331549 - Block Battery
331543 - Cover Battery
445612 - x2 Wing Nut
325837 - x2 Rubber Bumper
342562 - Hinge/Seat
342613 Rod Hoot Support
445252 - x2 Nut
341484 - Decal
331561 - Decal
343020 - x2 Decal
342990 - Decal
343021 - Decal
328977 - Dash Panel

If anyone can cross reference this information to Jacobsen parts - and you think it would be easier for tracking them down - please let me know. Additionally, if anyone can recommend a parts dealer or reproduction parts dealer, that would be great. Thank you in advance for you help and I am looking forward to any feedback.
 

Attachments

·
OLD TIRED CDN. MECHANIC
Joined
·
9,012 Posts
To my knowledge, all Jacobsen part numbers started with "Jac" - 0123456.

It would probably be simpler to find a pdf of the manual for the identical Jacobsen branded tractor and get all the part numbers that way.

Many of those parts are universal hardware items from any supplier, and the decals can be purchased on line from Bradish.

The paint job looks great, keep the pics coming.
 

·
OLD TIRED CDN. MECHANIC
Joined
·
9,012 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thank you all for the input. Yes, it does look like the Chief parts are a direct cross to the F100, which makes sense since Jacobsen made both tractors. Thanks for the manual! I just wanted to double-check.

Larry, you're right. We will be sourcing most of our hardware parts (nuts, bolts, etc.) from a local supplier. After further review, my friend and I think it should not be too hard.

I'm not a welder, but my friend is and he was able to rebuild most of the gears on the steering rod so we should be okay now.

I do need input on another matter, though. The dash panel/instrument panel (throttle, lighter, choke) is somewhat faded. How do you all restore that or do you? Do you use stencils or have a fine hand?



Thanks again to everyone for their input - this is a great community! I will be sure to keep you updated with new photos.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Looks like a great job, what paint are you using?
Noticed you left the brake mechanism and band in place, will that allow the mechanism to function smoothly and not get paint seized?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
TorontoMARK, we plan on pulling the brake band off completely in order clean it up inside. After reassembly, it should be fine.

Thanks for the comments! I should have some more pics soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Things are almost done. I will have pictures soon. I some help locating two parts.

1. Does anyone know the part number for the hood prop rod? See attached photo. I don't think I had one when I purchased the Ford. Also, you can see the slot for it on the hood, but where does the other end go?

2. I need suggestions on a muffler. The one I have is pretty rough looking. Should I paint it or is there some place where I can get the whole assembly? Also, is the current setup long enough? Should it come out further and completely go past the hood?

Thank you all in advance for your help!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, kklowell. I'm going to look into this one.

Did you replace the pipe leading up the muffler? As you can see from my pic, it's pretty rusted too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,453 Posts
Yes, I did. I used regular steel 1" pipe. The gray stuff where it goes into the block is JB Weld Extreme heat epoxy, which I used because the threads are very egged out. It's holding up well so far. I would like to use something lighter for the pipe though.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top