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Discussion Starter #1
So after dealing with a bad vibration while accelerating and a few other issue with the drivetrain over the past few months it caught up with me. I was hoping to make this repair off season but now am forced to do it sooner.

Originally I was going to replace the idler pulleys and fix the vibration, but about it 90% into my now this past week and “pop” the mower stops moving forward. I look down to see a round metal cap that looks almost like a washer.

I bring it into the garage and look under to see the secondary variator pulley shot, the top has separated completely and is just sitting there.

So I move on to diagnose, unfortunately there is not a lot out there for removal of the D105 transmission or secondary variators. So I figured it out myself after removing the deck and putting the frame on stands to get the transmission out. This is what you see below, confirmed it is only the secondary so I ordered the OEM kit from General Transmission and new JD pulleys for about $70.

Now I wait for parts to arrive, took about 20 minutes to pull it all apart and I got to do some needed greasing while it was all apart. Also got the compressor and blew out all the crud really good, amazing all the nooks and crannies for stuff the get in.

So stay tuned I’ll keep updates and more pics and a report of how it runs when I’m done.

 

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Father Deerest
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Subscribed, I don't see to many of these trans come apart. If you could let us know the way it's used or what you were doing leading up to the break down, I just want to know the little things.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I put it back together I’ll be sure to post closeup pics. It is used for mowing, I don’t bag and occasionally pull a broadcast spreader or dump cart for wood, mulch, aeration. My yard is pretty level with a small slip on one side. I have a little over 150 hours in almost 4 years on the machine be bought new from a JD dealer.

Funny thing is I’m still on the original battery which I am replacing next spring.
 

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Off topic but the pics prompted a question. What are the black plastic discs on the rear of the mower (right and left of the rear seat) used for? Are they tie downs of some sort?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Off topic but the pics prompted a question. What are the black plastic discs on the rear of the mower (right and left of the rear seat) used for? Are they tie downs of some sort?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Assuming you mean these. They are for accessories like the shade canopy and bucket.
 

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Premium Member
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WOW 150 hours and 4 years old and it needs a tranny ?? Rusty was a 25 year old 175 and who knows how many hours.

That is pathetic, :tango_face_surprise

But I am enjoying your efforts. I am sure they will help others
 

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Discussion Starter #8
WOW 150 hours and 4 years old and it needs a tranny ?? Rusty was a 25 year old 175 and who knows how many hours.



That is pathetic, :tango_face_surprise



But I am enjoying your efforts. I am sure they will help others
Well to be fair it’s not a tranny it’s just a part for it and was partially my fault. I was hopeful no to get to the idler pulleys in the off season and stretched my luck so I think the vibration had a helping hand in the breakage. However I’m not sure if this was the main cause of the other issues I’ve been diagnosing so we will see if the fix works. Pulleys come tomorrow but the variator won’t be here till around the 15th.

FYI this part was $50 on Amazon and is a true General Transmission OEM part, I saw it on greenpartsstore for $116 ?!?!
 

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Father Deerest
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Well to be fair it’s not a tranny it’s just a part for it and was partially my fault. I was hopeful no to get to the idler pulleys in the off season and stretched my luck so I think the vibration had a helping hand in the breakage. However I’m not sure if this was the main cause of the other issues I’ve been diagnosing so we will see if the fix works. Pulleys come tomorrow but the variator won’t be here till around the 15th.

FYI this part was $50 on Amazon and is a true General Transmission OEM part, I saw it on greenpartsstore for $116 ?!?!
I will have to agree that the parts JD uses are not theirs but from a manufacture that sell to other big names, the engine, tires, and other components are priced out by JD folks to keep a price point affordable to the people.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Parts are all in I will complete the install tomorrow with loads of pics. But first the part is confirmed to be from General Transmission and the pulleys are JD. Also came with a new belt and instructions even though it’s pretty straight forward it’s a nice to have.




Then I noticed something, the pulley looks a little different. It’s beefier, seems they upgraded the stalk and the unit feels heavier. Instead of a hex shape at the top and bottom it’s thicker and goes the whole length and sleeves in so there is no space. I wonder if this added to the occasional slip or lack of top end. I noticed one of the older stalks ends looked to have some corner wear on the hex points.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Parts are in, just need to put the deck back on after i grease it up. Found there are grease points I was not aware of right behind to front tire (not the control arm) and also right in the middle under the front heat shield. Two points under the mower shindles as well so that was all taken care of.

I took it for a quick run around the yard and neighborhood and it's as smooth as the day I bought it, maybe even smoother. No more vibration, no more whirring mechanical sound from the transmission. I will say if your having issue with the performance to give this a try before going and doing all the takedown for the variator. Problems solved tractor is up and running, I have a bunch of pics of the reinstall so you can see what goes where to remove the transmission. I will post again either today or by Monday.
 

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As I said, I think your work will benefit some others. Good Job and good job explaining the steps. Glad it worked. :tango_face_wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK so as promised here is the write up. It's not a true How-To but hopefully you get something out of it and if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask or PM me.

First jack up your tractor by the hitch, I placed two stands under the frame forward of the transmission. Then I used the jack to support the transmission itself. Once up the wheels come off easily by pulling the rubber cap, popping the lock ring with a flathead screwdriver, and removing the washer so the wheel pulls off. Take note that a small rectangular bar may fall off or travel with the wheel, it's the locker for the hub to the axle. I set mine aside as I greased before reinstalling.

Technically there are only 6 bolts holding the transmission to the frame, 2 on either side of the axle and then 1 on a hangar bar towards the front on each side. Take note that when you remove the bolts on the axle there is a metal plate between the transmission and the frame, be sure to put that back when reinstalling. I found that removing these bolts and lowering the transmission a bit on the jack helped to reach and detach all the other components.





Next there are several connection points for the transmission, on the right side is a large silver rod that connects to the gas/throttle pedal. It simply slips up and out of the plastic holster, next to that is the electrical connection, a small flathead inserted in the notch frees it.




Then on the left side is the parking brake held on by a simple spring clip



In the middle is the gear selector F/N/R, another spring clip holds this in place it's easily identifiable by the large silver plate hanging down towards the top of the transmission.



Finally is what I call the Release rod that enables you to freely move the tractor around when off. It's the small rod that sticks out back from the lower left corner. There is a small clip washer that holds it in place, pry it down and pop out the rod.



Now I lowered the transmission unit from the frame and you probably notice the drive belt is still attached. The EASIEST way to remove this from the transmission was to remove the belt guide, it is a small cylindrical piece mounted on the right next to the drive belt pulley. A 1/4" drive with 5/16" socket and it comes off easy allowing the belt to slide away.


Now was able to easily grab the transmission and set it aside, it weighs maybe 25-30lbs. First thing was to replace the belt since the new kit came with one so now I keep the old as a spare. A T20 is used for all of these parts, you can see mine is worn down, I used a second set I had but this photo was more for reference. Remove the 4 screws holding the main variator and drive belt pulley in place.




Once off you can replace the belt, I did not have to remove the secondary variator as that is what broke for me, so I put the new on one. adding the new spring and getting the T20 bolt started was a little tricky as the spring needs to be compressed. I should stress to pickup some blue threadlocker when reinstalling these components




Now you can reinstall the 4 bolts on the variator/drive belt pulleys, load your transmission back onto the jack and reattach all the components. I did loosely bolt the transmission back in place before completing the reattachment of the rods and connectors, just take your time and get to know the machine and it's points. I also used Blaster lubricant on the pulleys, and re-greased the axles before completing the work. The belt drive idler pulleys under the foot pan go on a lot easier if you put the belt in the pulley grooves before installing the pulley itself.

Once it was all in I gave her a test run and I have to be honest it runs better than it did new. The startup from a stop is smoother, there is no more noticeable hum from underneath, and all is well. At 150 hours it seems like a crazy repair to have to undertake but it was a $50 part ($70 including the idler pulleys) and took me total about 2 hours to do it all. Again I took my time, it was my first attempt and I was learning the ins and outs. If I had instructions like these I could probably get it done in about an hour it's really quite simple. I hope you enjoyed and again any questions let me know.
 

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Father Deerest
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Great job!! that was some serious wear on the hex clutch shaft. Great write up and cost of parts is definitely worth the time. Thanks for pics and detailing!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pictures were lost so I am reposting with the pics again since I cannot edit an old entry.

OK so as promised here is the write up. It's not a true How-To but hopefully you get something out of it and if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask or PM me.

First jack up your tractor by the hitch, I placed two stands under the frame forward of the transmission. Then I used the jack to support the transmission itself. Once up the wheels come off easily by pulling the rubber cap, popping the lock ring with a flathead screwdriver, and removing the washer so the wheel pulls off. Take note that a small rectangular bar may fall off or travel with the wheel, it's the locker for the hub to the axle. I set mine aside as I greased before reinstalling.

Technically there are only 6 bolts holding the transmission to the frame, 2 on either side of the axle and then 1 on a hangar bar towards the front on each side. Take note that when you remove the bolts on the axle there is a metal plate between the transmission and the frame, be sure to put that back when reinstalling. I found that removing these bolts and lowering the transmission a bit on the jack helped to reach and detach all the other components.






Next there are several connection points for the transmission, on the right side is a large silver rod that connects to the gas/throttle pedal. It simply slips up and out of the plastic holster, next to that is the electrical connection, a small flathead inserted in the notch frees it.




Then on the left side is the parking brake held on by a simple spring clip



In the middle is the gear selector F/N/R, another spring clip holds this in place it's easily identifiable by the large silver plate hanging down towards the top of the transmission.



Finally is what I call the Release rod that enables you to freely move the tractor around when off. It's the small rod that sticks out back from the lower left corner. There is a small clip washer that holds it in place, pry it down and pop out the rod.



Now I lowered the transmission unit from the frame and you probably notice the drive belt is still attached. The EASIEST way to remove this from the transmission was to remove the belt guide, it is a small cylindrical piece mounted on the right next to the drive belt pulley. A 1/4" drive with 5/16" socket and it comes off easy allowing the belt to slide away.





Now was able to easily grab the transmission and set it aside, it weighs maybe 25-30lbs. First thing was to replace the belt since the new kit came with one so now I keep the old as a spare. A T20 is used for all of these parts, you can see mine is worn down, I used a second set I had but this photo was more for reference. Remove the 4 screws holding the main variator and drive belt pulley in place.



Once off you can replace the belt, I did not have to remove the secondary variator as that is what broke for me, so I put the new on one. adding the new spring and getting the T20 bolt started was a little tricky as the spring needs to be compressed. I should stress to pickup some blue threadlocker when reinstalling these components




Now you can reinstall the 4 bolts on the variator/drive belt pulleys, load your transmission back onto the jack and reattach all the components. I did loosely bolt the transmission back in place before completing the reattachment of the rods and connectors, just take your time and get to know the machine and it's points. I also used Blaster lubricant on the pulleys, and re-greased the axles before completing the work. The belt drive idler pulleys under the foot pan go on a lot easier if you put the belt in the pulley grooves before installing the pulley itself.

Once it was all in I gave her a test run and I have to be honest it runs better than it did new. The startup from a stop is smoother, there is no more noticeable hum from underneath, and all is well. At 150 hours it seems like a crazy repair to have to undertake but it was a $50 part ($70 including the idler pulleys) and took me total about 2 hours to do it all. Again I took my time, it was my first attempt and I was learning the ins and outs. If I had instructions like these I could probably get it done in about an hour it's really quite simple. I hope you enjoyed and again any questions let me know.
 

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Kubota
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Thank you for the excellent write up....I have a John Deere D105 that was built in 2013 and I bought used in 2017 with 26 hours on it. It now has 153 hours on it and it has had a vibration for about 15-20 hours. Mine quit like yours and that hex is completely rounded and the spring broke and sprung up past the washer like cap. I was able to get it out with out taking the transmission off. But after seeing your pics I see I will need to drop the transmission to install the new one. My pulley also split in two.:tango_face_surprise
 

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Funny thing is I’m still on the original battery which I am replacing next spring.
I wouldn't replace it, unless it is needed. My '03 GT235 is still on the factory battery and going strong. (370 hours)

did you change the tranny fluid while you had it out? I don't know if yours is one that you can't while it is installed or not, but just wondering.
 

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That is what I thought, if it were mine, and I already had it out, that would have been the very first thing I would have done. Just my opinion though,
 
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