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Any advice on removing the flywheel retaining nut? This sucker is JAMMED! I've used Liquid Wrench and enough elbow grease to actually move tractor a little. I'm worried about busting off a fan blade or worse if I put on an extender bar.

Any ideas or tricks?

Briggs 16.5h OHV on a LT1000

Thanks!
 

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Try one of these... they make the job easy.
 

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I've had the CRANK snap off in the flywheel nut a few times when I used an impact gun,so be careful if you use one!..I also learned on some old cast iron Briggs engines the flywheel nut is a left hand thread the hard way!..

I'd use a torch to warm the nut up good, then try using a breaker bar to gently coax it loose--if it still refuses to budge and you can get a nut splitter on it,I' use one to split it and then it'll come off easily..then buy a new nut..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys!! I should have clarified, just the nut is stuck haven't even gotten to the stuck flywheel problem yet!? :)

I do have a flywheel puller for that though.
 

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I start with an electric impact, then go to a pneumatic wrench (3/8" or 1/2") if needed. Just pay attention to what your doing and you shouldn't damage anything, I once sheared off a 1 1/8 inch shaft with my 3/4 inch impact because I wasn't paying attention to what I was doing.

Also remember that you shouldn't use an impact to install the flywheel on a tapered shaft, because you can force the flywheel onto the taper and cause the flywheel to crack.
 

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Good advice there too,it's easy to split a flywheel that way,especially if its aluminum..though I have pullers,and am forced to use them every so often,I'd say 90% of the time I can remove a flywheel once the nut is off,by pulling outward on it,either by hand or with a pry bar,being careful not to smoosh anything fragile with it--then give the crank a good firm smack with a 5 lb hammer,preferably a brass one or use a hardwood mallet,so as not to ooger the cranks threads..sometimes I can use a mag wheel nut with a closed end as a protection device,on Tecumsehs a 1/2x20 one works perfect..threading the original nut on till the cranks sits flush works too,but you MUST hit it dead on center,or you risk bashing it sideways,cocking it on the threads and ruining the crank..even WITH a puller,its often nessasary to tighten it firmly,then whack the screw you tightened with a hammer to break the tapered fit's firm grip..I think hiding the points under a flywheel ensured many new engines would be sold,more cranks get butchered trying to remove the flywheel than any other cause..
 
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