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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 318 parts tractor and I am thinking about removing the rear tire and filling them with fluid so I will have 2 sets of rear tires for my main 318. One set with and one without fluid.
1) I have never used fluid filled wheels before so I am clueless on the upside or downside of maintaining a fluid filled tire. Does it require any special considerations on maintenance? Example - once filled, is the valve stem likely to get crud such that it no longer works? If so, is filling with fluid a one time deal and that tire is fixed for life (assuming no puncture).
2) Any specific fluid recommended? I have seen various solutions called out along with some home brew stuff.
3) I assume you try to fill it with as much fluid as possible?
 

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Old school was calcium chloride mixed with water. CaCl is a salt that has the same effect as the salt used on icy roads and rusts out the rims in about 12 years. The advantage is that it is the heaviest liquid medium used for ballast at about 11.3 lb per gallon.

Rim Guard is the current best option. Freeze protection down to -35°, non-rusting, and environmentally safe at 10.3 lb per gallon.

Windshield washer antifreeze and plumbing antifreeze weigh about 8 lb per gallon and freeze protection and weight dependong on the strength used. The consensus is that it does not promote severe rusting and is relatively environmentally safe.

Water is acceptable if there is no risk of freezing, but rusting will occur. Weight is 8.3 lb per gallon.

Fill level is recommended at 75% of tire volume and various methods have been used. The easiest is to break the bead on the valve side of the tire and pour in the fluid.

Metal valve stems are required for Rim Guard and recommended for the other liquids.

Please note that humid air will also rust rims from the inside, just not as rapidly as water.

My snow clearing tractors get loaded tires as a matter of course, and have for the past 37+ years. Since most of those tractors are also equipped with FELs, ballast is essential and Rim Guard is the desired liquid. Unfortunately, it is sometimes not available locally and another option is required.

The tire valves do not get plugged up, but CaCl will do a serious number on the gauge used to check the pressure. Once a loaded tire is installed on the tractor and the pressure is correct, I measure from the ground to the top of the rim edge and note the measurement. From then on no gauge is required to get the same pressure. Just match the measurement.

Different brands of a given size of tire with a similar tread pattern can be quite a bit different in diameter if the tires are mixed on the tractor. The measurement method used for checking pressure can be used to get the same axle height even though the pressures can be substantially different.

Do not over pressure loaded tires. Loaded tires have a much smaller air chamber and bumps in the road spike pressures rapidly.

The upside is greatly improved traction. The downside is more expensive repairs of punctures. The last set of CaCl loaded tires on my GT went 12 years with only adding a bit of air once a year or so. My SCUT has had 3 punctures in the past 9 years. The last one cost $117 to repair and replace the lost fluid. The next time, it will cost a tire due to weather checking.

The combination of weather checking, tubes, and liquid ballast is not good. If the checking opens up on the inside of the tire due to higher than normal load on the tire, the tube gets pinched and torn. (That was the cause of my last flat. I installed the 800 lb hoe on the back of my SCUT, and then used the hoe to lift something without aid of the stabilizers.)

Automotive engine antifreeze is a NO-NO! It is toxic to animals if the tire leaks.

Depending on the tire and the liquid chosen, the weight of liquid ballast will equal or greatly exceed the weight of a set of expensive cast iron wheel weights. The 26x12-12 turf tires on my GT carried 160 lb of CaCl . . . each. The same weight in cast iron wheel weights will cost between $200 and $900, depending on what brand and where you find them, and when mounted on the wheel, they will stick out far enough to bang your shins on.
 

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Rimguard is a product made of beet juice. Apparently, it isn't very corrosive and it offers freeze protection too. The downside is that it is more expensive than washer fluid. My 316 came with filled tires. I assume they are filled with calcium chloride, and that some day the rims will rot right off of the axles, but it's not something to spend any time worrying about. It makes the tractor much better in snow.
 

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RV anti freeze is an option over rim guard.
 

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My 318 is filled with ww fluid. The Bolens is filled with bio-ballast. The local rim guard dealers switched to bio-ballast.

It was a flat $25 fee, plus $2.53/gallon. It took 15 gallons in each of my 29" tires. Total weight was a little over 190 lbs each.
 

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Windshield washer fluid is a poor choice as there is no rust inhibitor and the antifreeze portion (methylated spirits) is made to evaporate and might be harmful to rubber over time. It has to evaporate cleanly so as not to leave any film on your windshield.

RV antifreeze is made for metal, vinyl and plastic and contains rust inhibitors and is non-toxic. IMHO, much better choice when bought on sale :fing32:

For those of us up north it's also a great thing to feed into your pressure washer at the end of the season. I have a filter on the inlet (well water) and I pull the engine over with the hose off and ignition off to push the water out. Then I fill the cup of the filter and pull it over until I see the pink stuff coming out. Then you know you're good for the winter. Without the filter, a funnel or chunk of hose ... whatever works.

If you really wanted to go with WW fluid you could always tube the tire to keep the rim from rusting out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the great info guys. I use RV antifreeze all the time in my RV. This the season for someone like WalMart to start putting it on sale for the winter. I will stock up when they do. What will it take to fill a 23x10.5-12 tire? About 5 gallons per tire?
 

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Rim Guard says no tubes required and metal valve stems are required, but others say recommended. Do I need tubes for the RV fluid or windshield wiper fluid??
 

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how much is Rim Guard per gallon?
Rim Guard says no tubes required and metal valve stems are required, but others say recommended. Do I need tubes for the RV fluid or windshield wiper fluid??
Rim Guard runs around $4 per gallon plus the metal valve stems. Some dealers also tack on a labour charge.

Rim Guard recommends the metal valve stems because the glue holding the valve in the rubber stems deteriorates and the valve blows out. Upgrading to the metal stems is not a bad idea for any of the fluids. Unlike the rubber stems, the guys at the tire shop can't cut them off to dump the air (fluid) in a hurry. They're there basically for the life of the rim.

Some have used tubes and some have stayed tubeless for wwf and RV antifreeze.
 

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Thanks for the great info guys. I use RV antifreeze all the time in my RV. This the season for someone like WalMart to start putting it on sale for the winter. I will stock up when they do. What will it take to fill a 23x10.5-12 tire? About 5 gallons per tire?
This chart says 6.8 gallons. Call it 7 and be done.
 
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