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Red with stripe is where the key switch gets it's 12 volt power from. Purple goes to the selonid (spelling) via the PTO switch and the neutral safety switch. White probably goes to the regulator.
The orange wire is the accessory 12 volt power source (lights, PTO).

You need to get a new key switch that is for a coil ignition. The original key switch is made to ground out to kill the engine. The one you want will power the coil from the red/white wire on the same blade of the key switch.

You going to have to add a wire from the "I" terminal (see wiring diagram) on the key switch plug to the new coil.

I missimformed you earlier in the post by telling you to power the coil from one of the orange wires. That will not work cause it only gets power in the run postion and not in the start position. I remembered that earlier today when I went out and looked at the wireing in my '68 today.
 

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Here is a close up of the key switch plug

"I" is 12 volts power for the coil
"S" is the purple that goes to the selonid.
"B" is the red/white that goes to the amp meter and where the key switch gets it's power
"R" goes to the regulator
"A" is for the accessory power.




 

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Give me a photo plugin side of the key switch plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Give me a photo plugin side of the key switch plug.
The red/ white wire is right, the purple is right going to pto.
The orange wire as you can see in last picture is going into the switch in plug labeled G and the light green wire from regulator is plugged into it also. What i found when hooked metter to it. As you can see the bottom pin that is not labeled has never been plugged to anything. G is the pin labeled right above that one. The 3 one the left the bottom is red/white, middle is purple to pto, and top iswhite, where pink is listed. Traced it down to the unhooked purple wire that is listed as coil in diagram.
2463691
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Found out what they done, they replaced the factory 4 prong switch AM102543 for magneto and installed a 5 prong switch for a coil. They moved wires off 4 pin onto 5 pin and the wire that is white going to purple at the stator plug, which is unhooked used be kill switch for motor. But now with this switch it hot, why they left it unhooked. Instead of hooking up right lol. How it ran before is beyond me.
 

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Diesel, If 316 is an early model CLOSED FRAME the hitch will work. If later model OPEN FRAME, the hitch will not work. Closed frame means there's a plate across the back of the tractor going from 1 frame side rail to the other. Looking at the rear of the tractor, you see just a plate (like your 140) whereas an open frame you see the hydro unit.

Anything from an early 316 and 317 on down in the 3xx to 140 will fit/work. Bob
 

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I guess it's up and running then, and that's great to hear.
As Bob said, any implements from a closed frame tractor will work on your 140.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
No not up and running yet lol, had step back take break tell parts came in. Then new carb came in bad, treads messed up on boil holds bowl on, so waiting on replacement. Got new coil mounted, switch, and points.

Been going through the wiring and got just about all off it moved over to the new switch, so it well work with the coil going off the wiring diagram. Now the problem I am having is headlights and lighter. Seen in diagram a 25amp breaker, mine does not have one, don't know if that is an later year thing or what. Mine has single red wire going from starter sol to the ampmeter.
Asked at Deere place when went pick parts up and he said for my year there was a 5amp and a 10amp listed, that was all.
Has far as lights go my switch has three wires coming off it. Front and back lights is one and other going to back of lighter, don't see one going to any power source?
 

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Should be a orange wire coming out of the key switch plug that goes to the PTO switch. There should be extra orange wire tied into that orange wire that goes down to the headlight switch and lighter,
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
There's a purple wire coming off switch going to pto, no orange from switch to pto.
There is an orange wire coming off switch from the A plug, then it's going over to the 5 and 10 amp breakers, there's four plugs on end of that orange wire, that where hooked to those breakers, but i unhooked them, cause didnt look right and now none of them are hooked up.

Below is pic of headlight harness and one orange wire was hooked to back of lighter.
2464785
2464786
 

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I'll go look at all my 140's and see what I can come up with.
I'll also look at the harnesses off of the two tractors ('73' and '72) that are tore apart right now.
 

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Yellow goes to tail lights
Green goes to headlights
Orange goes on a circuit breaker post.

(edit to correct the wires)
 
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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Hey thanks all the information and diagrams has been great. Now just wanting on the carburetor again lol. Found the other power wire to the pto it's laying down next to the breakers. Now just got figure out if it powers off the 10amp breaker and the light go to 5amp or the other way around.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Well got my tractor back together today after waiting on parts and rewiring everything lol. Thanks for all the diagrams for the magneto to coil conversion and the ignition switch.

Had problem at first with no fire to plug. Pulled points back off and reset motor top dead center and the gap was way off. So must timed on wrong side of top dead center. Reset gap to .20 and fired on first hit. Runs like a dream. Thanks guys for all help. 😄😁
 
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