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Discussion Starter #21
Are the points installed? If not it will stay in the "out" position until you get the spring pressure from the points.
That's what it was who ever put it on didn't set rod in and adjust from there. So pulled it back off and reset rod Installed point and reset gap to .020 the right way. Working right now going in and out. Still no fire on plug.
 

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This is what I do when I bring home a new tractor:
#1 Set the point gap.
#2 clean tank and carb, replace all fuel lines,, and add fresh gas.
#3 install a good battery
#4 run a jumper wire from "pos" side of coil to "pos" side of battery
#5 check for spark with "spark tester"
if I got spark
#6 install new plug
#7 try starting (if the starter engages) with full choke and throttle set about 1/2 way. If no fire after 15 or 20 seconds, spray some carb cleaner in carb.

If it runs on carb cleaner and quits, I put a known good carb on it and try.
If still no start, I do a compression check
 

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Discussion Starter #24
This is what I do when I bring home a new tractor:
#1 Set the point gap.
#2 clean tank and carb, replace all fuel lines,, and add fresh gas.
#3 install a good battery
#4 run a jumper wire from "pos" side of coil to "pos" side of battery
#5 check for spark with "spark tester"
if I got spark
#6 install new plug
#7 try starting (if the starter engages) with full choke and throttle set about 1/2 way. If no fire after 15 or 20 seconds, spray some carb cleaner in carb.

If it runs on carb cleaner and quits, I put a known good carb on it and try.
If still no start, I do a compression check
Well done all that last couple days. Tried cleaning carb and it needs rebuilt or replaced. New fuel lines, filter, cleaned tank, points reset. Just no fire on plug now, even tried without tester.
 

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Well done all that last couple days. Tried cleaning carb and it needs rebuilt or replaced. New fuel lines, filter, cleaned tank, points reset. Just no fire on plug now, even tried without tester.
Did you try with a jumper wire from battery to the coil to see if you get spark???
These old 140's ignition switches do go bad after setting for a while.

If still no spark, change the coil
 
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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Did you try with a jumper wire from battery to the coil to see if you get spark???
These old 140's ignition switches do go bad after setting for a while.

If still no spark, change the coil
Well guy at john deere parts store finally called me back with info I was looking for. Had called and asked part number for external coil, cause this one dont have it. Said first year 68 140 H models came with a magneto on flywheel. Said when came in shop they changed them over to external coils, used choke cable mount to mount it. Cause it was cheaper to repair, then tearing motor down. So in later models that design became the new, external coils. He said mines never been changed.
Well come to find out this one still has the magneto on the flywheel type coil.So looks like new coil setup going on. Was hoping it had something to do with this mess wires. Lol
 

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Did he tell you how to change it over to a points/coil setup??? It's pretty easy to do
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Did he tell you how to change it over to a points/coil setup??? It's pretty easy to do
😂 No he left that part out. Was hoping someone could point me in right way. But he did tell me that new carburator, coil, and points kit would be 100 bucks and few days get it. Also mentioned a new type kit it's like msd, uses no coil or points, but its more involved to change out. Said have look it up.
 

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Why is the condenser hooked to the points? That should be on the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Why is the condenser hooked to the points? That should be on the coil.
Don't know way hooked up like that, One wire going to point, other going to condenser, then back to magneto. Been looking at a diagram but it's for a 73 model. Called guy at john deere place, gave him numbers off it. Told him didn't have coil. He said he remembers from working in shop back in the day. That first year 68s have a magneto that fired the pulg on the flywheel. Keep having problems from over heating and cost a lot to repair. So John Deere redid it. So when later 68s came out and the older 68s came in for repair they changed them over to a coil on side. Said mines never been updated.
 

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When I converted mine over, I spliced into the the orange wire just after the circuit breaker and ran the wire down to the positive side of the coil. You'll need to get a non resistor 12 volt coil. I think I got one for a late '60 chevy or ford for mine and it came with the bracket to hold it. I used sheet metal screws to screw the bracket to the flywheel shroud. The points hooks to the negitive side of the coil as does the condenser.
 
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Discussion Starter #32
When I converted mine over, I spliced into the the orange wire just after the circuit breaker and ran the wire down to the positive side of the coil. You'll need to get a non resistor 12 volt coil. I think I got one for a late '60 chevy or ford for mine and it came with the bracket to hold it. I used sheet metal screws to screw the bracket to the flywheel shroud. The points hooks to the negitive side of the coil as does the condenser.
Hey thanks for the info. So better use coil off old ford or chevy then one he priced me? Also what to do with the old plug wire and small wire going to the magneto that's connected to points.
 

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Probably best to make a new wire to run from the points to the coil. Just cut those extra wires off. They will no longer be needed. I got my coil from a junkyard, so use whatever coil you want, just as long as it is a non resistor 12 volt coil. Oh yea, you'll need a new plug wire to go from the coil to the plug.
 
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Discussion Starter #34
Probably best to make a new wire to run from the points to the coil. Just cut those extra wires off. They will no longer be needed. I got my coil from a junkyard, so use whatever coil you want, just as long as it is a non resistor 12 volt coil. Oh yea, you'll need a new plug wire to go from the coil to the plug.
Thanks alot, 🖒I'll hunt one down, wire it up. Going make new harness for lights tomorrow this one is MIA. Also thinking about adding small electric fan to front keep cooled down a little since seems these things like get real hot and crack hoods from what hear.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Hey guys thanks, but ran into an issuse. Parts is one, still waiting on them and the other is this connector here. In both diagrams that you sent shows this as a pink connector, this ones black. See the brown and brown/ white wire mentioned in it. But the 3rd wire is yellow, not pink and out other end is purple and it's not hooked anything.
2463464
 

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The two black wires on the left side are coming from the stator. The red should go to
the coil. The brown wires on the right goes to the regulator and the other should go to the key switch.

You will need a key switch for a coil ignition. Here, this should help. It's for a coil set up.



 

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Discussion Starter #40
The two black wires on the left side are coming from the stator. The red should go to
the coil. The brown wires on the right goes to the regulator and the other should go to the key switch.

You will need a key switch for a coil ignition. Here, this should help. It's for a coil set up.



Hey thanks Redington, pulled the ignition switch out to look at wiring, match it all up, mine still has factory wiring but the switch is wired different. It's 5 blade but is labeled:
G: had single orange wire with another led pluged in that went to green that goes
2463617
2463618
to regulator
S: goes to yellow wire
S: goes to pto switch
B: is red/white going ampmeter

Nothing on last one plug and not labled
Thinking wrong switch or wired wrong at switch
 

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