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Just bought a John Deere 140 yesterday. 馃榿 Got really good deal on it. Was out today looking it over and noticed fuel line was off, so took carburetor off clean it up. Added a new battery today and cranked it over, check starter out and everything turns free on motor.
But what struck me as odd when motor turning the oil dipstick pops up.So took it out see what was going on. Seems real loose and looks like bottom below add mark has rubbed something. 馃
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Any idea?
 

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If the dipstick is loose, it might just be crankcase pressure blowing it out - especially if you have some blowby on the rings. My 317 with a healthy engine had an oil fill plug that would get pushed out by crankcase pressure.

but the rub mark??? If you place you hand on it while cranking, can you feel any mechanical pushing or tick?

Nice looking tractor
 

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What year is it? Which engine? Maybe a picture of the engine on the side where dip stick is? Just wondering if you have the correct dip stick if something is rubbing which would be the cam I would guess?

Does it run?


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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
What year is it? Which engine? Maybe a picture of the engine on the side where dip stick is? Just wondering if you have the correct dip stick if something is rubbing which would be the cam I would guess?

Does it run?


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I believe it's a 1973, cause has the fiberglass hood. It doest run right now, but guy bought from said dad had motor rebuilt he used it for 3yrs and something went wrong with points. Cause it would run and mess. Had weak fire on plug. Passed away before he could fix it. Here's only picture I have side of engine tonight. I was also thinking wrong dip stick maybe?
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Discussion Starter #5
If the dipstick is loose, it might just be crankcase pressure blowing it out - especially if you have some blowby on the rings. My 317 with a healthy engine had an oil fill plug that would get pushed out by crankcase pressure.

but the rub mark??? If you place you hand on it while cranking, can you feel any mechanical pushing or tick?

Nice looking tractor
Hey thanks, someone told me that the breather could cause it. Said they wAs an updated kit for it. I'll have check the dipstick to see tomorrow.
 

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Congrats on getting a 140. One of the all time favorite early hydro's.
OK, to start with, its a early 140. The hydro release is under the seat. The rubber at the top of the dipstick is dried out and that is why it no longer stays in. I've had this happen before and ended up buying another (used) one. Being the engine is green (if original) it's probably a '68 or '69. If it's a '68, it has a K301 (12 hp) and if its a '69, it has a K 321 (14 hp)
It look like it's in great shape and just needs a little work to get up and running.


(edit) I see in the 2nd photo that it has a later style dipstick. There is a chance that it is hitting the balance gears.
 
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I believe it's a 1973, cause has the fiberglass hood. It doest run right now, but guy bought from said dad had motor rebuilt he used it for 3yrs and something went wrong with points. Cause it would run and mess. Had weak fire on plug. Passed away before he could fix it. Here's only picture I have side of engine tonight. I was also thinking wrong dip stick maybe?
All years have fiberglass hoods. Get a picture of the SN plate. Then we can tell you what year it is. I have a '73 but my dipstick and tube is shorter than yours so it may be earlier year like others said. Nice looking machine and they are great GTs.
 

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File the points and set the gap at .020". Check for spark with a spark tester (available at most auto parts stores). This will tell you if you have a good spark. If you have already cleaned the carb, make sure the tank is clean and fill with ethanol free gas. (None of my old Kohler's like ethanol gas and run lean on it) Once you have it running, add a little MMO to the gas to help lube the top end and will add life to the exaust valve. These engines were made back when lead was added to gas and the lead lubed the top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Congrats on getting a 140. One of the all time favorite early hydro's.
OK, to start with, its a early 140. The hydro release is under the seat. The rubber at the top of the dipstick is dried out and that is why it no longer stays in. I've had this happen before and ended up buying another (used) one. Being the engine is green (if original) it's probably a '68 or '69. If it's a '68, it has a K301 (12 hp) and if its a '69, it has a K 321 (14 hp)
It look like it's in great shape and just needs a little work to get up and running.


(edit) I see in the 2nd photo that it has a later style dipstick. There is a chance that it is hitting the balance gears.
Hey thanks, went out this morning get some better pics of the engine for you. Having to baby set so not getting much done with grandson around lol.
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All years have fiberglass hoods. Get a picture of the SN plate. Then we can tell you what year it is. I have a '73 but my dipstick and tube is shorter than yours so it may be earlier year like others said. Nice looking machine and they are great GTs.
All years have fiberglass hoods. Get a picture of the SN plate. Then we can tell you what year it is. I have a '73 but my dipstick and tube is shorter than yours so it may be earlier year like others said. Nice looking machine and they are great GTs.
Posted pic of SN plate above, in last reply. His son didn't know year either but his dad babied it.
 

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Posted pic of SN plate above, in last reply. His son didn't know year either but his dad babied it.
SN 006?56M would make it a '68. First year they came out. K301 Kohler is the 12 HP which was standard in that year.
As far as dipstick rubbing issue, can't give you an answer.
The metal round piece down by where the dipstick split should be up against the rubber seal. It's held place by flaring on the stick but over time/vibration/pulling on it the slot wears and piece slides down. It does on my '73 also.
 

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Can't read the serial number very well. It's a late '68 with a 12 hp engine. Late cause of the point cover cutout in the frame. Early '68's had electronic ignition and no points. I bet that the PO put a new short block in it cause of the dipstick tube is of later design.
I think it's got the right dipstick, just be careful what way you put it in. I put a later K321 on my '68 and the dipstick hits the balance gears. So what I do is leave the right dipstick on a shelf and use one that came on the original engine (it's a lot shorter) and only use the right dipstick to check the oil.
 

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Sorry about pic the SN is. SN 006456M . Talked to guy bought it from just to ask about the engine again. He said only thing his dad did was had engine pulled new seals put in and valves cleaned, new point kit put on it. Said that's the engine that always been on it.
 

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Can't read the serial number very well. It's a late '68 with a 12 hp engine. Late cause of the point cover cutout in the frame. Early '68's had electronic ignition and no points. I bet that the PO put a new short block in it cause of the dipstick tube is of later design.
I think it's got the right dipstick, just be careful what way you put it in. I put a later K321 on my '68 and the dipstick hits the balance gears. So what I do is leave the right dipstick on a shelf and use one that came on the original engine (it's a lot shorter) and only use the right dipstick to check the oil.
I just have the one dipstick, but like said it feels really loose when push it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Was wondering do these require an in line fuel filter? This one don't have one on it. Gas line was unhooked when got it. Went part store today get some fuel line and they was out. Didn't know if needed a filter for it, heard some have it in the tank outlet.
 

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The petcock in the fuel tank has a screen.


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Looks like a good one for a restore. Love those old girls!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well guys went set points today cause have no fire on plug. Turn key on engaged the electric clutch so I could turn crank. Notice the rod coming from cam was not going in and out, but it was spinning, any ideas?
 

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Are the points installed? If not it will stay in the "out" position until you get the spring pressure from the points.
 
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