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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Found a 1947 8N while snowmobiling, I talked with owner gave him some $ and now I'm owner. It has not run in roughly 4-5 years. Was not able to turn over by hand, Engine may be stuck, (pulled the plugs and loaded it up with PB Blaster) was what I had at the time. OK Question 1- does this engine if all orig ? have steel pistons versus Aluminum. 2- I've bought some manuals, none state what oil should be used in this engine. 3- everything number wise that I find on the tractor says 8N and it has a 4 speed trans, but the front wheel hub has the Large bolt pattern and some folks are telling me it is a 9N because of that, my numbers say 8N6007 and it has the 8 bolt rear, I'm pretty sure it is a 8N, what would be a good rust eating oil to break it free ?:dunno:
 

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Found a 1947 8N while snowmobiling, I talked with owner gave him some $ and now I'm owner. It has not run in roughly 4-5 years. Was not able to turn over by hand, Engine may be stuck, (pulled the plugs and loaded it up with PB Blaster) was what I had at the time. OK Question 1- does this engine if all orig ? have steel pistons versus Aluminum. 2- I've bought some manuals, none state what oil should be used in this engine. 3- everything number wise that I find on the tractor says 8N and it has a 4 speed trans, but the front wheel hub has the Large bolt pattern and some folks are telling me it is a 9N because of that, my numbers say 8N6007 and it has the 8 bolt rear, I'm pretty sure it is a 8N, what would be a good rust eating oil to break it free ?:dunno:
Its a 8n for sure. Sombody at one time put 9n front hubs on it. Couple ways to tell if its an 8n, "ford" script fenders and hood, draft control lever under the seat area, no ferguson system emblem under the ford emblem in the front, side mount distributer, 8N in the beginning of block casting number, has a little vent door on the right (passenger) side of tractor hood, etc. #1Aluminum pistons or steel, i would probibly think aluminum pistons, unless it was rebuilt with a different rebuild kit with steel pistons. #2 Well if you are going for what was originaly used, In my original manual it says use S.A.E. 30 for temps above 90 degrese, use S.A.E. 20 for tempratures between 32 and 90 degrese, use S.A.E. 20W for temps between 10 and 32 degrese, and use S.A.E. 10W for temps between -10 and 10 degrese. But now days they have multi-grade oil so somthing like 5W30 oil would work just fine. Any more questions just ask.:fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you ! This must be a early 1947 8N - this one has no script on fenders & has front mount dist. 47 is frist year for 8N witch is what the ser.# states. what type of a oil to help break it free ? must be something out there that has a good report for working. Just picked up a hand crank for it, will try it this weekend to see if it will turn.
 

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I use a mix of diesel/kero/atf. Before I do that I'll load the cylinders up with BP Blaster ever day for a week. Pull the carb and disconnect the exhaust and stuff with a rag because any open valves will just leak out
Check to see if the clutch is stuck and Block down the clutch pedal.
Good luck with your new tractor.

Kirk
 

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Also while you let it soak, every now and again try to turn the engine some by hand or using one of the big cheaters on the back (wheels) try to rock it with it in 3rd or 4th gear. ATF is one of the better oils to use for freeing one up.
 

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Welcome and good luck.... Prepare yourself to do some work to get it running and then at the stage where it is reliable.... Took me a while, but I am not too mechanically inclined.... You will be damned pleased you worked so hard, the payoff is great!

j
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I could tell one heck of a yarn about doing that, Truth is we were only about six miles away from where I keep my NH3930 tractor, I drove it there and picked up the blade and rake that came with the 8N and was going to tow it back. But found the right rear was flat so came back the next weekend and winched it up on a trailer and got it back to my friends house near by, will haul it down state where I live to work on it come spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This tractor is still 6 volt and I was told it does not charge, not really concerned with that at the moment, it's only a few things, that can be fixed. But, are the 6 volt battery's still available at a decent $ or are you paying extra $ to keep it original. Do the 6 volt lights cost more. I'm not putting a radio or aircraft landing lights on it so I think the 6 volt system will be fine. I have an old Harley that is 6 volt too and I've been able to keep it charging OK with yearly maintenance, although the pos. ground on the 8N seems a bit odd to me, I just don't know what the reason for that was ?

6 VOLT VERSUS 12 VOLT pro's & con's ?
 

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Both of my current N's are 6 volt. Properly maintained they are just as good as 12volt IMO. TSC has reasonable 6v batteries but I have better luck from Interstate. a bit more $ but I get a lot more life out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Both of my current N's are 6 volt. Properly maintained they are just as good as 12volt IMO. TSC has reasonable 6v batteries but I have better luck from Interstate. a bit more $ but I get a lot more life out of it.
Thank you for the info, I too have had good luck with interstate before. what is a dealers name that mite have them in stock for a N model. Does TSC carry the interstate brand ? going to an Auto parts store for something of that age & 6 volt, they just look at you kinda funny.
 

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I have an interstate store in my town, They have everything in stock. Don't know who carries Interstate up north. TSC handles Traveller brand and its ok just doesn't last quite as long as the Interstate.
Any alternator shop can rebuild the generators and voltage regulators are still easy to come by.
 

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I would recomend staying with the 6v. My tractor was converted to 12v years back, and with that 12v battery, it just cranked the engine over to fast, and would never want to fire correctly. After my tractor was passed down to me from my great grandpa, i restored it in memory of him, and switched everything back to how it was when it was new. I put the 6v system back on and it works way better than that 12v stuff. Just my opinion though......:thThumbsU
 

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I've had a lot of 8N's if all is in good shape 6 volts starts them fine but genorators are poor at best I had my starter gemorator guy make me 6 volt altinators that way my batteries were always charged up I just had to run them neg. ground nothing was changed by this batteries last longer they start easier . I'm sure I will hear about this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, got it into the garage and started messing with it, Engine turns over and has compression :fing32: So changed oil and filter put in a new oil pressure gauge (was stuck at 20 psi) New batt. (6 volt) got the clutch freed up. and drained old gas and cleaned out out sediment bowl. Ready to start right ? ugh. cranks over but No spark ! so after dinner I'll pull the hood and check out the distributor and see what I can find going on there. But I did get a few things out of the way so I figure I got a good start on it. The wiring looks orig. and a bit rough. will post as I go. :00000057:
 

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You are not going to pull the hood just to get to the distributor are you? Only takes a couple minutes to pull the distributor and can take 2 men an hour or so to pull the hood.

Pull the plug wires from dist, remove two bolts holding it in and slide the dist out. It will only go back in 2 ways, one is right. As long as the dist fits flush it is right.
 
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