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I agree with all of that. My FIL had a OWB, was told that he could burn whatever he wanted, quickly learned that was a bad idea.

Mike
 

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Can't wait until you MacGyver a wrist onto that thing so you can delicately place the chunks onto the splitter!

Mike
Mikey Mikey Mikey, My brother. I would be happy to come down and take care of your yard/tree frustrations if you need me to.

All I need is "wings" on my splitter and I don't need to "gently" drop anything.
I can't wait to get the tractor off the job site and get the splitter hosed into the tractor to see what it will do.
 
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Cut this dead Alder out of the fence line and bucking it up. We will see how much salvage I get out of it. Several of the large branches are pretty punky. Did some noodling on the stump to make it easier to split.

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Mikey Mikey Mikey, My brother. I would be happy to come down and take care of your yard/tree frustrations if you need me to.

All I need is "wings" on my splitter and I don't need to "gently" drop anything.
I can't wait to get the tractor off the job site and get the splitter hosed into the tractor to see what it will do.
Just be sure to build those with hefty gusseting. The wings on my splitter are the weakest part.

Mike
 
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I had an OWB for years, best to burn dry wood in it as much as possible and low pitch hardwoods only or you'll be fighting to keep it clean. It will burn green wood but you won't get the heat as efficiently. Mine did not burn coal nor did I want coal smoke around my house anyways. It was a Taylor T-250 and did a decent job of heating the house. But the price of wood kept going up and I didn't have any timber of my own so it became cheaper to run the gas stove and a lot less work.
 

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Ok you masters tell me how to split these big ol" buggers. :p

Ones 32"s the other is 36"s We have dropped off a nice piece for slabbing that was bigger. So don't be haters now. ;)

It was cherry and sugar maple.
 

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I'd noodle them.

Mike
 
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Ok then Mr Mike. I know, I'm just gonna tease ya again.......... ;) English walnut from across the road with the "GRIPPER" . Sorry man I had to.

Anyway I need to get the tractor and the splitter lines figured out so I can split this stuff.
 

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Nice!!! I've seen a few fairly inexpensive backhoes come and go online recently. We're going through some big changes at work, so I need to see how the year shakes put before pulling that trigger.

Please feel free to keep teasing me, though!!!

Mike
 
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Had the Ford 9N with the Cordwood saw running this afternoon. Finished processing some branches and then moved to the Slab wood pile. Nice to have this running again. Makes quick work of this type of material.

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Ok you masters tell me how to split these big ol" buggers. :p

Ones 32"s the other is 36"s We have dropped off a nice piece for slabbing that was bigger. So don't be haters now. ;)

It was cherry and sugar maple.
I lift them up onto my splitter with the loader. I added some wings to the splitter that made a huge difference keeping big stuff like that up at work level. I did mess up with a large piece that was out of round. A hump hung down below the main beam on the splitter and I caught the wing on the other side of where I was working with part of the "round." It still split, but just about ripped the wing off that side. It still works so I haven't bothered hauling the splitter down to the garage to weld it back on. Not my brightest moment. The biggest round I have split from the maple taken down last year was 52". That one was hard to handle even when i popped it in half. I just let the other half fall onto the ground and then picked back up with the loader.
 

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I like the splitters that connect to a bobcat setup, the splitting gear hangs under the beam, you leave the big rounds on the ground and split them from above. No crazy lifting or handling.

Mike
 
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Here is the bent wing



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My splitter (American CLS brand) has similar wings, but they're midway between the ram and splitting wedge. One of mine broke clean off. I always assumed it was a bad design (weak point / insufficiently sized / gusseted steel brackets).

But, 20+ tons of force is going to challenge any bracket design. I think what these things really need is a rail that runs the length of the ram throw, plus the outfeed area, so there are no 90-degree surfaces that a falling log can hit on the way down, while being pushed by the ram.

Mike


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I'll get pics of the homemade jaw of death I bought for $90 with an Opel engine and trans hooked to the pump. I dropped an 18 HP to it and retro fitted the pump and hoses. Now to take the engine and pump off and get the lines from the tractor hooked to the piston. 😁
 

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Started stacking wood for shop heat next winter and I need another Gator load to complete 3 rows for the house wood. That works out to around 2 chords for the house which is about what we go thru. I still have quite a few trees to cut up so maybe I can get 2 years worth of wood in the shed.

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That's pretty far down on the wish list.

We need to figure out what we're doing about the RV first. It's 28 years old, in pretty good shape, but needs a transmission and/or torque converter. It actually runs just fine unless you try to climb big hills/mountains. Not sure that it's worth the investment at this point, or whether it's time to upgrade to something newer.

We've certainly got our money's worth out of it. We've owned it for 16 years. My FIL helped us rebuild the bunk (water damaged) and then borrowed it for a winter while he cleared a plot of land to build a house.

Mike
If you decide to get the trans rebuilt I know a guy close to you that is a master at heavy duty transmissions.


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PM sent, thanks Turbo.

Mike
 

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I'm headed out tomorrow to try and find an "aggressive" chain for the pouland pro 50cc 20" bar.
I adjusted the idle mix so it stays running after the "wind down" from running flat out. But I still want to adjust the "top speed jet" to get a little more fuel and hopefully a bit more power.
We used a new Sthil that my partner's friend brought over to try out for the first time. 18" Not sure of the model # yet. It did good, then he put the aggressive chain on and man! :eek:
So here's a question for all Y'all. If I put and aggressive chain on and try to "noodle" these huge things down, is the chain going to clog? I have heard that the aggressive chains don't clean out and the "noodles" clog things up.
Is that true?
 

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You need to know the pitch, width, and number of drive links. Then you can shop for chains.

Then you need to pick the cutter profile. Full chisel has cutters with a profile that looks like a 7. Semi are shaped more like a ?. Full are more aggressive but dull easier.

Next, anti-kickback safety chain has an extra hump on the non cutter links that makes it not grab as much as it rounds the nose of the bar.
Most saws like yours come with safety chain for a really good reason. I run safety chain on my 50 cc saw because I use it for limbing and any weird position work. The difference in speed isn’t worth the risk for me.

If you want to noodle a bunch, you can get a full skip chain that omits every other cutter. That enables it to clear better.

In general, a 20” bar on a basic 50cc saw will be a lot in hardwood like cherry or maple. You need to keep the chain sharp and let the saw move at its pace.

Oregon chains are available on Amazon if you aren’t in a rush. I just got a new loop of full chisel safety chain for my MS260 for $20 and it worked great yesterday.


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