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Finally Started my 2320 Electric Hyd Diverter valve.

15689 Views 19 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  fireballferkey, 
saskman49
This post will be added to over the next month or so till I get this bad boy done so I will start with the idea. I bought an Allied Farmking 50" PTO blower with hyd chute positioning hence I need to have hyd available to use it and I want to keep the loader functional at the same time. Adding a second SCV and rear outlets while interesting was too much money for the amt it will ever get used as I can only foresee using it for the blower and probably a tilt cylinder for the 3pt.

I have looked at the mechanical diverter valves available from Deere and as per Andy's (PicFramer) advice would need to get the 2520 kit in order to use the diverter with a double acting cylinder price $630.00 from Deere and then making it fit, I would have had to have extra hyd lines made as I do not want the second set of outlets where Deere seems to think they should go.. I want them at the back of the tractor not under my foot. Also I don't like the idea of having to bend down by my leg and fiddle with a handle when I am all bundled up for -30 snowblowing fun hence I decided to go with an electric solution.

I have spent some time trying to find a suitable 12v diverter and lo and behold found exactly what I was looking for at Princess Auto..

PN:8002552 Joystick with 2 NO switches $48.97
PN:8051799 2-Position, 6-Way 12 Volt Selector Valve $289.00
I also purchased 2 Pioneer male quick connect ends @9.99 ea

So I solved the diverter problem and a way to control it this weekend, today I am ordering the Hyd quick couplers from Deere with all the associated O rings, snap rings and adapters x4 should be abt $180.00 total. Then I will need to get 6 custom hyd hoses made up with the appropriate ends as the diverter uses NPT and all the Deere stuff uses ORB.

I believe I will get this done for abt $620.00cdn when all is settled and have a better product than the Deere diverter.

The fun starts after I get the tractor back on Wed as it is in getting the new control valve put in the hyd tomorrow. Once I get it back I will be taking the seat and associated panels off to locate the diverter and make a plate to mount it. I'll post some pics in the next day or so of the diverter and joystick head and then start documenting the install from there.
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saskman49

Looking forward to the pics! It should be interesting. I love to see these projects broken down in pictures for guys like me. I'm the "Tractor Projects For Dummies" type of guy; I need pictures. :ROF Good luck with the project. :fing32:
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JDBrian
Thanks Saskman for the update on this.

Brian
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saskman49
Well all the couplers are on order and the service manager was kind enough to print off the installation instructions for the 2320 diverter kit so I have a reference as to where all the Deere stuff mounts under the tractor..
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saskman49
Ok, the couplers have arrived yesterday, I will get a couple pics done hopefully tonight of the parts all laid out minus the hoses as they are the last thing to get done. but I am going to the old farm museum tonight to start training on all the old antique engines as I guess I have been selected to be their new engine Guru.. who'da thought a computer geek would be an engine geek.

BTW for Deere guys if you think the Deere hyd couplers are special think again as I ordered the ones listed in the 2320/2520 parts guides and guess what... std Pioneer couplers with an adapter to go to ORB fittings on the tractor. Mind you I paid abt the same price for these at the dealer as they cost at Princess Auto..
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saskman49
Here is the first of many pictures. This one shows the hard parts required to make this happen. All the rest that are required will be some bolts and the hoses with the required fittings to mate to the couplers and diverter valve. I could have got away without buying the ORB adapters that are attached to the couplers at this time as now that I have looked everything over I won't use them.

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saskman49
Well just an update.. The hydraulics are now fully installed and leak tested with the tractor running. Yes I was careful and stood back when I fired it up. All that is left is the joystick handle and getting a relay setup that will hold the diverter engaged as it requires 12v to hold the diverter in the switched position. I could hold the button down while operating the diverted device but that would be a PITA so I will use a relay setup nice and simple and no electronics to fail. It turned out to be a bit more $$ than I expected as I really had no idea how expensive the custom hoses would be. As it stands right now I am in for the following
Diverter $289.00
Joystick Handle: $48.97
Pioneer Male coupler [email protected]: $19.98
Pioneer Fem couplersx4:mad:31.99 $127.96
6 custom hoses $240.00
Relay and wire $15.00
3 trips to Princess Auto @$40.00ea: $120.00 (I drive a 3/4 ton truck)

So I am into this for approx $860.00 not including the 2 hoses that I had to get made again as they were not the proper length, seems high flex hyd hose is not all that flexible and so my plan had to be reworked and the place that did the hoses would not shorten them and put one new end on. Company policy prevents recrimping a hyd line so had to get 2 new hoses made at $117.00 and one is 4 1/2" center to center the other 6" center to center, I also had to relocate the diverter by approx 1" because of how the hyd lines had to be made. It is the fittings that are the killer with hydraulics. Oh ya and need to add a 200km trip just to get the 2 new lines, sure must be nice to live close to a store like Princess Auto as it gets expensive just for gas.
I took a bunch of pics but haven't had time to resize them and post yet, but hopefully tonite or tomorrow as I have to go get a load of hay tonight as well.
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Looks good Saskman....
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saskman49
4
As promised some pics..

The pic of all the hyd lines actually shows them all including the 2 miss builds that cost me ove 100 buxs. The proper ones are the short ones with the 2 90 degree ORB fittings on them.

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saskman49
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Some more.

When you are looking at the belly couplers they look lower than they actually are. The originals are almost 18" off the ground and the new plate is only dropped 1 1/2" more so I think there is lots of clearance.

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saskman49
I need to get some hose wrap yet to protect the hoses in a couple places. In the pics they look like they are rubbing but they are not just want to make this a one time deal and not ever have to go back and redo anything.
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JDFANATIC
Saskman,

Thanks for the post! :) How about a close up of the joystick?
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Phoenix125
Very impressive work! Probably cost more (money and time) than you hoped for, though. I'll be curious how well yours works once completed: I have the usual quirks with JD's mechanical diverter valve. Thanks for taking time to share your work/progress.
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saskman49
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JDFANATIC said:
Saskman,

Thanks for the post! :) How about a close up of the joystick?
Click to expand...
Here are a couple pics of the finished Joystick and a clearer one of the outlets at the back. I tested it on Sat with my blower and it works just as I had hoped for. Push the rear button to activate the diverter and let go to deactivate it. I have it wired that with putting one jumper on the relay I can push the rear button to activate and then push the front one to deactivate it, that was the way I had it hooked up originaly but then I thought with it being live all the time (as it is wired to it's own fuse directly from the battery) someone would eventually forget to unlatch it hence the change. I will be adding another 30A relay that runs off the accessory line so the system only works with the tractor running as well as an idiot light to warn of it being on. So with the loader and and any rear attachment that needs momentary hyd I am good to go. The cool thing is I was going through a bunch of stuff I bought at auctions over the last while and found a 2" x 10 hyd cylinder that is perfect for a 3pt top link so I gave it to my friend along with a couple cat1 top link ends I bought for a couple bux on sale and he is going to weld it up for me so I'll have my top cylinder for abt 10 bux if memory serves what I paid for that cylinder. Anywhay here are the pics..

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saskman49
Phoenix125 said:
Very impressive work! Probably cost more (money and time) than you hoped for, though. I'll be curious how well yours works once completed: I have the usual quirks with JD's mechanical diverter valve. Thanks for taking time to share your work/progress.
Click to expand...
This actually works just as I had hoped for..very smooth and fast so it should be perfect for setting a toplink or turning the blower head. As to price it was a bit more than expected especially give how far I have to drive to get stuff but I would do it again in a hearbeat even if it cost a hundered more over what I paid it works that well. One of the things I think is the extra margin of safety as you don't have to take your eyes off your work to switch it over, that is priceless IMO.
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saskman49 said:
One of the things I think is the extra margin of safety as you don't have to take your eyes off your work to switch it over, that is priceless IMO.
Click to expand...
You have that right..

This is similar to what i will be doing to my 4520. I had picked up the stuff to do it to the 2210 but now its for sale and i will "mod" the 4520..

Thanks for the pics Saskman. Very nice job too..
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x595
Glad it all worked out for you and thanks for the pictures ... :trink39: Just a suggestion , what about getting some proper sized wire loom to cover your wire and the full length of your joystick shaft , just to protect and dress it up ... JMO

Later,x595
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Upper5Percent
Nice thread Saskman...:thThumbsU
Good camera work as well...;)
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JDBrian
Hi Saskman

Sweet job on that diverter. It may not be too long before you need your blower. Winter is sneaking up on us again.

Brian
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fireballferkey
cool you should sell thees setups as a kit...
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