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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #1
Finally picked up a cheap-ish 1980 Farm King branded 990, been looking for something for quite awhile. It's pretty well worn, probably one of the roughest looking tractors I've even gotten even, but it looks to be solid and isn't missing to much. The engine has compression but it needs starter work and the left front axle is siezed in the support (so someone subsequently broke the tie rod end as well), so it hopefully shouldn't take too much work just to get it running and driving again.

The main things it needs that I'm not all that familiar with is the hydraulic lift cylinder and the universal shaft for the 42" deck it came with. As they're no longer available parts does anyone have any suggestions on replacements or at least the shaft length and the body length and stroke of the cylinder? Any info would be greatly appreciated. :tango_face_smile_bi
 

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The lift cylinder is an odd type of mount. See the picture. Are the cylinder and deck shaft missing?
 

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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes unfortunately they didn't come with it, but so far looking over it they appear to be the only parts missing.
 

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The cylinder is a hard part to find. The clevis end breaks on these. Ebay has had them but rarely.
The deck shaft is another hard to find part. They seem to get lost somehow. Ebay has them but sellers want a lot of money.
I may have one on my latest acquisition. It is rusted onto the deck gearbox. soaking with Kroil right now.
PM me for a price if you want it. Doesn't do much good without a lift cylinder though.
 

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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I did check Google and eBay for both before I posted. The universal shaft does show up on the bay on occasion but the price isn't great and I didn't find anything on the cylinder aside from posts here on rebuilding them.

I do have a older 960 with electric lift that I should be able to adapt the quick connect setup to and still be able to use the deck on there in the mean time.
 

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I just looked and found a shaft from a 42" deck. The bearings feel solid.
 

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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #7
I just looked and found a shaft from a 42" deck. The bearings feel solid.
Is there a difference between the shaft that went with the 42" deck and the 50" deck? I had just looked at the parts lists for the deck I got once I figured out what it was but assumed they all use the same shaft. Pretty sure the deck I have is a 190-982, seems to line up with the barely legible tag on it anyway.
 

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The decks use the same shaft. This shaft is from a 1973 tractor that had a 42" deck. Just not as nice as the the 1979 shaft.
 

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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #9
The decks use the same shaft. This shaft is from a 1973 tractor that had a 42" deck. Just not as nice as the the 1979 shaft.
Ah, I see. As long as it does the same job it makes no difference to me then.

Just spend about an hour and a half breaking the right front axle kingpin free. Have that cleaned up and greased and put back together. The tie rod end is still broken till I dig one out but I just hooked it back on the ball for now. At least I can move the thing around by myself now. Problem is that's it's toasty out today and it was sitting in the sun for all that work and now I'm exhausted from the heat lol. Oh well, it's in the shade now so I'll work on it a bit more if I get the chance today.
 

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The lift cylinder is an odd type of mount. See the picture. Are the cylinder and deck shaft missing?
VTX, do you know the dimensions of cylinder? Closed length, open length, bore etc. I have a 990 with deck but no cylinder. I’ll see if I can make one.
 

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VTX, do you know the dimensions of cylinder? Closed length, open length, bore etc. I have a 990 with deck but no cylinder. I’ll see if I can make one.
Sent you a PM.
 

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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #12
VTX, do you know the dimensions of cylinder? Closed length, open length, bore etc. I have a 990 with deck but no cylinder. I’ll see if I can make one.
I'd still be interested in those as well, not high on the priority list but will need to be done eventually!

While freeing up the left axle kingpin I did find that someone has welded a pipe over the axles and it's the same on both sides. They ride on there pretty loose atm with the bushings they used so will have to address that at some point.

For the moment I've capped off the lines for the lift cylinder out of the lift control valve. I rebuilt the seized starter that came with it, cleaned the points, cleaned the massive straw mouse nest out, and checked the compression. Gave it a little fuel and it started right up. Put a small temporary tank on it and it runs quite good with the carb as it is but that still will need to come off to get cleaned properly. Tested out the hydro and trans and everything seems to be working as it should.

Today I got the fuel tank clean out, though I still need to find a gas cap, that's ready to go back on. I want to drain the hydro fluid and take a better look at it. It's clean on the dipstick but it's also filled at least half way up the dipstick and there was some rust under the cap so there could still be some water in there. But it's so hot out today and I don't have the new fluid so that'll have to wait! There's also a minor oil drip I'll have to track down, it's a bit wet around the lift control and the deck has obviously been catching some drips for a long time.

Anyway, just a quick update!

Also here's more some pics, forgot to link that in the first post: MTD_140-990-285_C200D_Farm_King
 

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Those pipes are factor to make the 3/4" spindle to 1". The bushings are worn, that is why the wheel fits loose.
Standard hydraulic oil will work. I use it from TSC or Farm and Family. Sounds like it is overfilled.
 

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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #14
Been awhile. Haven't had a chance to do much on this lately but finally had some time today. Replaced the fuel tank bushing as it leaked like quite a bit when I added so fuel, the shutoff still seems to have a slight leak so I'll have to deal with that later.

I did order some new bushings for the wheels but they don't fit. I'm still thinking the pipes on this specific one aren't original. They're quite soft an they're slightly larger than 1", enough so that I can't force the 1" bushing on. I'll have to stick with the worn bushings until I get a chance to sand the spindle down about 0.025". Unfortunately the new bushing are bit loose in the rim as well so that's worn a bit too. Not big of issues at least.

Moved on to the steering after that, some bit out of whack. The drag link rubs on the threads of the tie rod when it's turned all the way to the left. I had the tie rod off to clean it up and put on the new end on and had to run a die down the threads as they looked ground off near the center. Will see what it does once I have it centered up, atm it turns good one way but barely the other. The main issue I've found is the last 2.5 teeth on one end of the steering bevel gear are ground off so I need to find a replacement for that.

Aside from the gas cap and the hydraulic hose that goes between the lift valve and the filter I don't see anything else that I should have to replace to get it driving good. Than I can focus on rebuilding that dumb dash and maybe some paint. :)
 

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Why they made the dash out of that crap plastic is beyond my understanding. My White GT1650 (same apparently as a 990) has the entire top missing.
 

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You can grind the pipe and weld off. This would allow for a 1" tube to be spot welded on so the bushings can be used. You may be right that a previous owner welded pipe on the spindle. Pipe is slightly larger OD than 1".

I have a hydraulic hose. PM me for info if you want it.
 

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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #17
Why they made the dash out of that crap plastic is beyond my understanding. My White GT1650 (same apparently as a 990) has the entire top missing.
Yeah I don't get the dash decision either. I mean I'm sure when it was new it was great, and it is decent plastic even, but after a few decades in the sun..... lol I rebuild the dash for my 960 with bondo and it came out pretty good, so I plan to do the same thing for this one.
 

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Photo for Kernel86.
 

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Sylvania Nut
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Discussion Starter #19
I did find a lift cylinder which came a few days ago, cleaned it up and it looks in good shape. Had some time to install it today. It did come with the bushing for the back end and the bolt for the arm so I just had to pick up a bolt to go through the bushing. Does anyone have any pictures of the how the clevis is suppose to attach? For now I attached it the only way that seemed to make sense given the size of the bolt but it doesn't seem quite right. It has the quick attach assembly for the deck on it atm, not sure if that makes any difference.

Other than that, it doesn't leak, but it barely works. I've not done anything with hydraulics before, but the hoses from the lift valve were letting fluid through with nothing attached so I'm leaning towards there being an issue with the valve at the moment.
 

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The photos show the clevis mounting. Some have a thin fender washer between the clevis and the slotted lift arm. I may put one in but a thinner type of lock nut is needed.
Not sure what you mean by letting fluid through. If you have the hoses disconnected, fluid will come out of the hoses. The valve should be ok to use.
 

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