My Tractor Forum banner
1 - 20 of 70 Posts

· Too young to act this old
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took this video this morning and it has taken me all day to get to this point. Be aware when your house switches from pc to mac. Any way. Here is my problem. I disassembled this engine to see if I could find out why it did not run the first time. Now I have it back together and this is what I get. It seems to burn the fuel in the muffler. Occasionally giving me a bright blue flame adn a bang that sounds like a cannon. I know that my lash it about .002 too big, but I can't believe that this is the problem. I opened the motor up last night to check if I had the crank and cam gear lined up, they are. My fly wheel key seems to be correct. Valve lash is big. Where is the problem? The video will not upload so here is the link to photobucket.

http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/delineatedevice/?action=view&current=M2U00303.mp4
 

· Lunatic Drag Racer
Joined
·
223 Posts
Boy, if I wouldn't have opened that video,I'd swear you were in my garage trying to start my JD 165..Mine sounds the same as in the length of cranking but will eventually fire. I replaced the fuel line,cleaned the tank,new carb kit and it takes forever to start almost as bad as this one..
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
9,769 Posts
Man if anyone has the right to be ******, it's you, after all you have been through with that mower !!!!!!!!!
Good video tho.
I can't believe Engine Tech or Stladrill can't diagnose it.
 

· Too young to act this old
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The engine in the tractor needs some adjustment, but mows like mad. Should be ready to do one last leaf clean up, then off to retro fit a snowblower on. At the very least I have a plow to put on.
 

· Too young to act this old
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can't say that I'm that familiar with the Kawasaki engines. But it sounds sorta like a condensor is bad! Hit's once in a while and might occassionally run but is rough and never consistent!
Possible igniter issue would make sense. Spark is bright blue and snappy otherwise. Occasional firing would cause the unburned fuel in the muffler to ignite. Those who know for sure, could a faulty igniter do this?
 

· MTF Member
Joined
·
254 Posts
I would try the time delay module if it has one. Its twenty bucks and ten minutes to swap them out. It is acting and sounding just like my 345 did. My 345 would actually crank and crank and crank and no firing. Then when I would let off the key it would fire and act like it was going to start but wouldn't. Good luck and I am curious to see what the problem is. Keep us posted.
 

· Too young to act this old
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would try the time delay module if it has one. Its twenty bucks and ten minutes to swap them out. It is acting and sounding just like my 345 did. My 345 would actually crank and crank and crank and no firing. Then when I would let off the key it would fire and act like it was going to start but wouldn't. Good luck and I am curious to see what the problem is. Keep us posted.
Maybe someone could confirm this. I have not read anything in the pdf that says there is a time delay module. It is a very "simple" engine. Coil, igniter, and spark plug. Could the wrong woodruff key take the timing off just enough? Or in my pre-mature haste cause the flywheel to be off just a bit? Could the gap from the coil to the flywheel cause this? It is set at .012.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,950 Posts
Maybe someone could confirm this. I have not read anything in the pdf that says there is a time delay module. It is a very "simple" engine. Coil, igniter, and spark plug. Could the wrong woodruff key take the timing off just enough? Or in my pre-mature haste cause the flywheel to be off just a bit? Could the gap from the coil to the flywheel cause this? It is set at .012.
yes to the first 2 questions see the manual below for the last.

if you put some starter fluid directly into the spark plug hole does it fire?

if no, its not a carb issue...

new plug??, sometimes a plug will spark under test but NOT under compression...

BUT I am not sure I understand your statement pre-mature haste, but it sounds like you had the flywheel-off???

then the problem is likely a timing issue, if you had the flywheel off that could be your problem. could even be a weak magnet in the flywheel...

Here is a link to the service manual for your motor so you can check the specification of the gaps, etc.

FB460v Service Manual
 

· Banned
Joined
·
1,050 Posts
Bad ignitor. Ive had one do this EXACTLY. It was intermittent. Change that little silver ignitor!!
 

· Too young to act this old
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yes to the first 2 questions see the manual below for the last.

if you put some starter fluid directly into the spark plug hole does it fire?

if no, its not a carb issue...

new plug??, sometimes a plug will spark under test but NOT under compression...

BUT I am not sure I understand your statement pre-mature haste, but it sounds like you had the flywheel-off???

then the problem is likely a timing issue, if you had the flywheel off that could be your problem. could even be a weak magnet in the flywheel...

I know its not a carb issue. All signs are there that it is working. I will have to dial it in, but it is doing its job. It does seem like an intermittent spark possibility. You could see in the vid that gas vapors come from the muffler. I will try a different plug. This plug was changed out on my other tractor because of a starting issue, but found it may not have been the problem, but maybe it was. Yes I had the motor apart everything except the governor. So, I have had the flywheel off. I never checked the magnet, but it had a pretty good hold on my feeler gauge. I am with you herd about the ignitor test. I would like to rule it out, but it never hurts to troubleshoot anything electrical.
 

· Master Service Technician
Joined
·
748 Posts
Back to basics here....

First off there is NO time delay on this engine. I believe the other poster was referring to a "relay" which is part of his 345 wiring harness.
BUT

there is a lil silver box hanging off the side of the engine that we in the shop refer to it as an exciter coil that MAY be giving you the problems you are experiencing (as another poster already responded) At our John Deere dealership they are bout 75 bucks...and non returnable because they are electrical.

I would also take a very close look at the valves, pushrods, and the camshaft. do the valves go up and down? is your push rod bent?

Kawasaki engines rock and the two most common engine failures I see are broken camshafts and bad coils. (ps the igniter is about the size of a postage stamp and is not the coil)

Keep us up to date on what you find.

PS.....GREAT VIDEO!
 

· Too young to act this old
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Same as Herd said, I also think/thought that the exciter/igniter either worked or it didn't. There is no in between with them. Coils and stators can be intermittent. Even though I didn't check the push rods with tools, they both seemed to be straight. Valves do go up and down. Compression is at about 58 pounds. I will go after the spark plug first. You all know how it goes, the simplest thing can cause you thei biggest head aches. If there is no improvement, I will swap out the exciter/igniter from my running engine.
 
1 - 20 of 70 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top