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Discussion Starter #1
Well that, and some other goodies. The hitch is complete with the lift rod which still leaves my spare rod in reserve. It is missing the bushings at the pivot points, so I'll need to find/make some of those eventually. There's a 50" mower deck that should be usable. It's a bit beat up and has a hole near the top of the discharge chute but is complete and doesn't appear to have any serious rust. There is a nice crack-free front grill casting as well.





I have been ignoring riders until I find a 450. However, this one tempted me beyond the limits of my self-control. The seller had this tractor listed for sale for a few weeks for $150 with a poor title and description but at least a photo. Then he dropped his price and I figured I'd be stupid to pass it up even with the 5 hour round trip. It's a 1973 816 (SN 20140A) with most of the 816 goodies still attached (snow plow latches, hydraulic lift, rear PTO axle block, etc.). The Onan CCKA has had the shrouds and starter removed. I turned the motor over by hand a few times and it has compression in both sides. There are various things that have been kludged together here and there like the tie rods and an electric fuel pump, there is almost 1/3 turn of slop in the steering, and the left rear wheel hub is loose. The steering wheel itself is in really nice shape, though,. All tires are holding air and the cigarette lighter is still there.

My youthful optimism has me hoping that someone was operating the tractor and got something shoved into the flywheel and that's the reason those parts got removed. All of the fan blades in the flywheel are sheared off although the ring gear is still intact. I'll be keeping an eye out for a replacement flywheel and grass screen. Like so many other projects of mine, time is on my side for a while...

The plan for now is to get the engine back in usable shape. If I get it running and it doesn't need a rebuild, I'll see if the PTO is any good. Honestly, if the PTO is out, it's not a big deal because I'll still be able to use the rear hitch for garden implements (homemade and I may pick up a little Brinly moldboard plow just for fun). It could also get winter log pulling duty. I'm a bit bummed out that it's too late to have a limited-slip differential; maybe I'll splurge and get some steering brakes for it in the future. Seems like there was evidence that the LSDs were weaker, too. Anyhow, I'll probably take some of the nice factory parts from the 8102 to swap onto the 816 for the homemade things. Hopefully I'll end up with a nice, usable 816 and a decent working 8102 when everything is finished.

I haven't been this excited for quite some time :bananapow













 

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Gravely1964
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Glad to see you got it :thThumbsU :thThumbsU :thThumbsU Very nice man :trink39:. Looks like a little tlc and she could be up and going. :drunkie:

To bad about the fly wheel. But p.s I think you could run it long enough for a test drive with out the fins :fing32:
 

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Pretty sure I have some of those bushing lying around. Also have a trailing hitch with pin that would go nicely with that, allowing you to ditch that fixed hitch. Hopefully the sleeve hitch did not get drilled on.:praying:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all! It's no 450, but it's close, and will have a lower ground speed to boot. I don't know if I'll like the hydraulics or not. Steve, I can start it as is just to see if it will run or if it's an oil burner, if I ever get the time to play around with it! Like you said, it won't overheat in just a few seconds.

Pretty sure I have some of those bushing lying around. Also have a trailing hitch with pin that would go nicely with that, allowing you to ditch that fixed hitch. Hopefully the sleeve hitch did not get drilled on.:praying:
Some PO did drill a hole in the left (as you are looking at the hitch from behind the tractor) side to accommodate the standard style drawbar, but I don't think it'll cause any issues. It looks like it's 1/4" square tubing and they come from the factory with holes drilled in them in other places! Replacing that tube would be doable but I'll only do that if it breaks.

I'll send you a PM in a few minutes about your parts.
 

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There should be three threaded holes in the tubing (both sides) for torquing down say a rear tiller. Hopefully these are unmolested.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There should be three threaded holes in the tubing (both sides) for torquing down say a rear tiller. Hopefully these are unmolested.
I found this picture of a rear hitch, and I can just see the 3 holes you're talking about. The PO must have drilled two holes for bolting on the standard drawbar because the right-most hole is too far right to be one of the original 3 threaded holes. I think those are okay. Still, it's highly unlikely I'll run a rear tiller on this machine. I'm just not going to shell out $500+ the setup. But if one pops up for sale nearby at a cheap price, it would be hard to pass up.

I'll sell you a 430 .....
I think I saw yours for sale, and it has the Onan 12hp engine, right? It's a good-looking tractor! I like the standard steering brakes on the 400s and the lower price since most people prefer the 800/8000 and new riders. I'd like a 450 for the standard liftable hitch and the pressure-lubed CCKA engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
A big thanks to PA RedRider - I'll be getting a trailing hitch and some other goodies for this tractor in the mail. Does anyone happen to have a rear liftable hitch bushing (PN 19260) handy that they can get dimensions from? The bushings should be the same on all 800/8000 rear lift hitches. I may still be looking for some of those, and a wear pad (PN 14949) for the drawbar trailing hitch.

EDIT: According to Richard's L & G website, the wear pad is $3.65 from Gravely. I'll see if I can get one with my next order.

http://www.gravelyparts.com/pages/OemParts#%2fGravely%2f42237_Liftable_Rear_Hitch_4_Wheel_Tractor%2fLIFTABLE_REAR_HITCH%2f244%2f6684
 

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I Love All Color Tractors
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Congratulations! That is a fantastic machine. It's not referred to as the Cadillac model of the early 70's for nothing.
 

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Great find! Being a 1973 it should have keyed clutches, enclosed steering box, and should have limited slip rear axle. Make sure to clean and lube the shaft and key for the clutches, The slop in the steering will be wear in the enclosed steering box. If you have the engine off look inside the trans, the inside should be painted orange and it should be a limited slip axle. Mine is a 1974 so it had the splined clutches, enclosed steering box, and was to new to have the painted trans inside and limited slip axle. I got bushing for the liftable hitch at Tractor Supply. That looks like a factory style electric fuel pump I've never seen one on a CCKA Onan. The hole in the deck is because the runner is ripped off that side. I getting ready to throw away a rusted deck if you need the runner off of it I'll cut if off for you. Jason
 

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The last I checked Gravely wanted some crazy price for those bushings. If it were mine I would make my own. Tractor Supply seems the best option.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Great find! Being a 1973 it should have keyed clutches, enclosed steering box, and should have limited slip rear axle. Make sure to clean and lube the shaft and key for the clutches, The slop in the steering will be wear in the enclosed steering box. If you have the engine off look inside the trans, the inside should be painted orange and it should be a limited slip axle. Mine is a 1974 so it had the splined clutches, enclosed steering box, and was to new to have the painted trans inside and limited slip axle. I got bushing for the liftable hitch at Tractor Supply.
Jason, thanks for the tip about the bushings (Richard, I checked and Gravely wants over $10 each for the bushings)! It does have the enclosed steering box, so I don't know how much I can do for it. I will be lubing the clutches and dealing with the loose wheel hub after I hopefully get it running, no worries. First things first. I hope I don't have to take the engine off but if I do I will check for the LSD.

What about Ron's post, #33 in DJ's thread, stating the LSD was stopped at SN 18930: http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=253964 My SN is higher than that. Do we have any documentation proving one way or the other? I know the customer service updates says that this tractor should have an LSD, but there are several errors in it and I am hesitant to trust it.
 

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It probably does not have a LSD. My 816 was an early one with keyed clutches, sector steering, etc, but did not have a LSD. I still have the diff.
 

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I Love All Color Tractors
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McMaster-Carr is also an excellent source for bushings as well. Once one has the proper size, they have a wide variety of materials and duty ratings to choose from. They even have the oil impregnated bushings and they don't cost much either.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That looks like a factory style electric fuel pump I've never seen one on a CCKA Onan. The hole in the deck is because the runner is ripped off that side. I getting ready to throw away a rusted deck if you need the runner off of it I'll cut if off for you. Jason
Jason, PM inbound. I didn't even think about that runner missing; you have now answered my question about the weird location of that hole. I can't find any literature indicating that the tractor should have had this electric fuel pump, but the bracket sure looks factory. I'll poke around it some more when I get the chance. And if it needs to be replaced, hopefully it'll be cheaper and easier to get than the Onan pumps.

McMaster-Carr is also an excellent source for bushings as well. Once one has the proper size, they have a wide variety of materials and duty ratings to choose from. They even have the oil impregnated bushings and they don't cost much either.
I spent quite a bit of time at my last internship ordering different sizes and grades of bolts from McMaster for shear testing - their quick service is nice. I'll certainly keep them in mind if I can't get the rest of the bushings locally.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It would not have the limited slip. That ended after sn 18930.

Are you taking that one upstairs to work on it?
That's what I figured about the LSD but wasn't sure. Like I mentioned, it's probably okay that I have the stronger open diff if I'm dragging logs around with it or doing a lot of ground-engaging work. I just don't like the price of steering brakes so I'll have to keep my eye out.

And...NO! This tractor is staying at home. Loading and unloading it isn't much fun, although this summer I'll have a full house to myself (maybe a barn/shed?) so I wouldn't have to carry things upstairs.

I do need to decide if I'm doing a Gravely project or not at this internship. If I do, I'll probably pick something up in the area that I'm going to be living in. Another option is to bring some attachments from home and clean, replace gaskets/seals, and repaint them down there. :dunno: That's probably the easiest and most sensible thing to do.
 
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