[bmurph44]

I have a few questions, it needs a new cutting edge. Are these still available from Deere, are there aftermarket I can buy cheaper that are good quality.? How do I hook up my hydraulic hoses, it's a single cylinder and my 300 has 4 hydraulic ports.

 

[SonnyT]

Right side ports(sitting on Tractor) are for the raise/ lower cylinder. Inside Lever activates it. Hose on the back of the cylinder goes into Top Connection and the Front hose goes into the bottom connection. I just looked and that is how my 54 is connected and works with pulling lever raises blade.
Cat. 1079 on JD parts Web site is the parts for it.
M75674 Blade cutter/edge $57.20 at my Dealer. Still available by order.:fing32:

 

[biker3777]

Sonny,is Big Brutis drag line still in Pittsburg?

 

[SonnyT]

Easy way to hook it up. Set the bottom pins into the grooves on the bottom of hitch plate. hook up hoses. Pull the top spring loaded pins out and lock them. Start tractor and use hyd lever to pivot the frame up and then release the spring loaded pins. Much easier than killing your back. I unhook it the same way.:fing32:

 

[SonnyT]

Sonny,is Big Brutis drag line still in Pittsburg?

Yep about 15 miles south of me. :trink40:

 

[Tony bachler]

I found ; that the Left (sitting in the seat) Couplers Are for the left/outside lever; That is the one that has the Float position. It works for me .. I have had owners hook them up different ways. It's up to the owner;;

 

[Dan33Klein]

I found ; that the Left (sitting in the seat) Couplers Are for the left/outside lever; That is the one that has the Float position. It works for me .. I have had owners hook them up different ways. It's up to the owner;;

Unless someone has changed something.. the inside lever should have the float position. inside for up and down, outside for angling the blade.

 

[SonnyT]

Unless someone has changed something.. the inside lever should have the float position. inside for up and down, outside for angling the blade.

:ditto:As far as I know/learned, the inside lever has the float in it in the 300 Series Tractors, from the factory. Guess someone could have changed it?

 

[bmurph44]

Thanks for the help everybody, the cutting edge is worn so bad I'm not going to use the blade until a new one is installed, I'm going to fabricate one myself with a strip of 1 1/2 steel from TSC. I removed the blade from the front bracket and hooked up the hydraulics just to make sure everything operated correctly.

One thing I noticed is the cutting edge wore very unevenly, even the skid shoe, wonder what caused this to happen.

 

[bluwrench]

When the blade is angled it seems to wear the trailing edge more. I'm guessing there is more pressure on it due to the way the blade sits when angled. If you angle the blade with it raised you will see the following edge is lower.

 

[SonnyT]

The edges do show more wear than the center of the blade because of angling. But also the previous owner could have run the front tire at lower psi than the other side causing it to have uneven pressure on that side. Just a thought. :howdy:

 

[bmurph44]

When the blade is angled it seems to wear the trailing edge more. I'm guessing there is more pressure on it due to the way the blade sits when angled. If you angle the blade with it raised you will see the following edge is lower.

Rick, that does make sense, the angle closest to the driver or I guess the side pushing snow out is going to get the majority of the weight of the snow or down force thus causing that side to wear faster than the other. The previous owner did have a really long (maybe 200 ft.) narrow driveway so I'm assuming he used mainly one side of the plow.

 

[bmurph44]

Right side ports(sitting on Tractor) are for the raise/ lower cylinder. Inside Lever activates it. Hose on the back of the cylinder goes into Top Connection and the Front hose goes into the bottom connection. I just looked and that is how my 54 is connected and works with pulling lever raises blade.
Cat. 1079 on JD parts Web site is the parts for it.
M75674 Blade cutter/edge $57.20 at my Dealer. Still available by order.:fing32:

Another question...

I have decided this single cylinder blade just don't cut it for me and I have my eye on a dual cylinder. I currently have my tiller attached (just thought I'd keep it on for rear weight) and one of my hydraulic levers are used lift and lower it. If I attach the dual cylinder blade will I have to take the tiller off or will the front hydraulics somehow override the rear lift. Does that make sense?

 

[Dan33Klein]

if your tiller lifts off the rockshaft cylinder, you can install a lock out valve to cut off the hydraulic flow to the cylinder. raise it up all the way, and lock the valve, as long as the cylinder dont bleed down fluid it should stay up, maybe you can turn the desk screw all the way in to lock the rockshaft up?
either would work

 

[bmurph44]

if your tiller lifts off the rockshaft cylinder, you can install a lock out valve to cut off the hydraulic flow to the cylinder. raise it up all the way, and lock the valve, as long as the cylinder dont bleed down fluid it should stay up, maybe you can turn the desk screw all the way in to lock the rockshaft up?
either would work

Just got home and I bought the angle blade, couldn't pass up the deal.

Where is the desk screw? That sounds like the easiest way to me.

 

[Dan33Klein]

that goes through the fender pan to adjust the cutting heighth

 

[bmurph44]

that goes through the fender pan to adjust the cutting heighth

Thanks Dan, bare with me I'm still a rookie, I'll go take a look and see if I can figure something out.