[Jimbochap]

I think the problem most people are having is, you have to pull out the pins with the pins squared up in the holes. If they are squared up they come out easily.

It happens most times when you take out one pin, then go to take the other pin out and the whole deck has shifted crooked, thus the pins have a hard time coming out on an angle.

The pins and deck must be squared up. a must.

 

[johndeere]

I guess you had to be there! Yes, I lowered the deck, removed the belt, and pulled forward on the lift handle to set the lock. The pins were very hard to pull out, both on my X320 and my X500. Do a search on this forum, you'll see dozens of folks with this problem.

For me, I went from dreading to remove the deck, to not minding at all.

I just yesterday removed and cleaned and installed new blades on both my X320 and LX277 so I had this topic on my mind while doing this.I had to wonder why some have trouble all I could come up with other then operator error.Was that maybe Deere has changed there J hook set up some how.I will have to look next time I am at the John Deere dealer and see if they have changed something.I could also see if not releasing the J hooks as the last step when removing and first step when installing that you could have a problem.I would think if some were not setting the lock on the lift pedal.That they would have a smashed hand or missing fingers by this time.

 

[mrmagloo]

Every time I remove the deck from my X500, I wrestle with the J-Pins. I’ve tried most suggestions found on the forum – from using a length of rope to “swearing a lot”. A tool with a handle and bent hook on the other end kept popping up in my head. I’ve seen that tool, but where?

Yesterday, I remembered. When I was young, my brother and I were sent to my grandfather’s farm in the summers for a “vacation”. One of the perks of the vacation was getting lots of exercise helping bring the newly baled hay to the barn. An essential tool for grabbing a bale of hay in order to help stack it, was a baling hook.

I drove over to TSC, and there in the farm implements was the baling hook. It cost $8. It worked perfectly - total J-pin removal time was 5 seconds!

Here is the baling hook, and a picture of how easy it is to pull the J-pin with it. I didn’t even need to get lay on the floor to do it! Hope this helps a few of the folks who’ve had this problem.

Thanks - Great idea! I just picked one up, but think I better grind down the pointy end a bit so I don't hurt myself! Should work great! Thanks!

 

[wizzo]

Interesting tool for the job...

 

[SilverGhost]

You youngster members can ignore this post.

Jimbochachap had it right. If the deck isn't squared, the J-pins will become squeezed tightly, making removal/installation extra difficult.

Keep in mind that I am a "Senior", wear bifocals, and have 2 artificial knees. All this combines to make a simple task quite difficult at times. When my X500 was delivered in January, I wanted to use the tractor in the woods, so asked the deliverer to remove the deck. He had it off inside 5 minutes!

So I agree this is somewhat a "user error" issue. It's there, nonetheless, and the hook helps me to overcome some of the obstacles. As a follow-up, I found that hook to be helpful in installing the deck as well. When lying on the floor, I have a hard time lining up the holes in the arm and the deck. Focusing with bifocals at that angle, in relative darkness, is a challenge.

I used the hook yesterday, pulling it through from the backside of the holes, and shifted the deck until it was dead-on. Then the J-pin dropped right in.

 

[drek]

Old thread, same problem.
It is NOT user error. It is Dealer installer error. The nuts on the end were tightened way too much. Once I loosened them, the J pins operated as they are meant to.

 

[inspectorudy]

I too hate the "J" pins and have made a tool similar to the Tractor supply hook. However, I have had several decks that are 10 to 15 years old and had never been removed one single time. They were rusted on. My tool is a little longer and instead of having a shovel type handle has a large "L" at the end which can then be hit with a rubber mallet several times to break the rust loose. If you take care of your stuff then this will not be necessary. I disagree with the notion that I am doing something wrong when I cannot get a pin out. You simply cannot imagine the lack of maintenance that I have found on some of the great mowers I have bought. I always have a short 2x2 piece of wood to raise the edge of the deck with while trying to remove the pins. It is also a good idea to have the hook on the tool much smaller in diameter because on certain decks there isn't enough room for that big hook to fit. But a hacksaw and hammer can cure that in a hurry. For $8 it is a great idea.

 

[TUDOR]

A wire coat hanger or a bent welding rod works as well.

Eighth inch stainless rod in 3' lengths is available at welding shops for a buck or two each. Those also work great for hot dog and marshmallow sticks at the campfire. I bought a few when my kids were preteens, and still use them. My oldest is now 46.

 

[CCMoe]

The hook that comes with a trampoline would work well also.

Take this to the next level, add a slide hammer to four or five foot hooked rod and do this standing up.

CCMoe