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· Farmer in Adell
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my search to find my first 8N I keep finding out more and more things that might be important or might not matter. I have narrowed my search to finding one that has an engine that is in good mechanical condition. After that I am looking closely at the 3-point and PTO and general condition of tires. Then I am looking at the body condition. I had some concerns on front mount or side mount distributor, 6 volt/12 volt, new paint/old paint.

Now I am trying to decide on an 8N with filled rear tires. The rubber is in excellent condition and I don't see any leaking around the valve stem.

But can someone weight in on the advantages or disadvantages with the tires being filled?

I know that I have been asking a lot of questions and I appreciate those that have provided some comments and input. I am new at all of this and once I find an 8N I will most likely have many more questions. So thanks in advance for tolerating my questions, some of them simple to those that have been at this tractor stuff for years. I am trying to learn and I hope that as I do I will be able to share what I have learned.

Thanks much.... Russell
 

· OLD TIRED CDN. MECHANIC
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To my knowledge, tires are filled for one reason, weight, and weight equals traction,(as opposed to spinning). Weight in the rear tires helps keep them on the ground when using a loader or front mount blower.

Disadvantages: I have only a GT with loader and filled drive tires. You feel every tiny ridge in the ground, up thru the seat. With air only you can soften them like an atv.

Secondly, depending what the tires are filled with, Calcium solution perhaps, will badly corrode the wheel rims from the inside out over time. Like everything else, it is a trade off. I'm sure other guys can give you more reasons for and against.
 

· Shop = My Therapy
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Filled tires are for weight/ballast & traction. Fluid shouldn't make it ride rougher (mine doesn't any way) from my experience. Control the ride comfort with the amount of air pressure. Rim Guard is the best solution as it is the heaviest, non-corrosive, safest on the market. (plus they are a new MTF advertiser/sponsor.)
 

· OLD TIRED CDN. MECHANIC
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Filled tires are for weight/ballast & traction. Fluid shouldn't make it ride rougher (mine doesn't any way) from my experience. Control the ride comfort with the amount of air pressure. Rim Guard is the best solution as it is the heaviest, non-corrosive, safest on the market. (plus they are a new MTF advertiser/sponsor.)
I mentioned hard ride, because I tried to soften them and got straight liquid.(previous owner filled them) To my knowledge cannot compress a liquid but with today's technology, who knows. :praying:.
Maybe It is just my old bones as I just got off from scraping weeds in the driveway and felt every ripple. Maybe 95% fluid and 5% air may be softer.:dunno:
 

· Super Moderator
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Extra weight is rarely a bad thing. If there are things in your area prone to poking holes in tires, liquid ballast may not have as much advantage as cast wheel weights due to the mess that leaking tires will make, but you takes your chances. Removing and installing loaded tires is a real chore requiring a jack and a hoist or another tractor with a FEL. The last set of calcium loaded tires on my GT weighed 200 lb each and the tires on an 8N are a lot bigger.

As Larry mentioned, calcium loading rusts the rims. A GT rim will be done for on about 12 years, which is why my FEL GT has been down for the past few years. Rim Guard, one of our site sponsors, make a product with about the same weight as calcium, but without the negative attributes. It's environmentally safe and it doesn't rust rims. It is rather odorus if you get a leak.

Advantages of tire loading:

- Lower center of gravity for better stability on slopes.
- More weight for improved traction under all normal conditions.
- Tires are carried by the ground and not the tractor axle, so there is no additional wear to axle bearings as with a weight box hanging from the 3PH. Wheel weights and tire loading constitute free weight as far as wear and tear to axles are concerned.
- The cheapest weight per lb for ballasting.

Disadvantages of loading:

- As mentioned, installing and removing tires that weigh several hundred pounds can be taxing to the human body.
- As the percentage of fill for the tires goes up, the ride does get harder, as Larry mentioned.
- Leaks are a major pain.
- As with any added weight, there will be slightly increased wear and tear on the driveline components due to the increased traction afforded. That is an expected by product of being able to get work out of the machine.
- When you do get stuck, the added weight also has to get unstuck.

Overall, the advantages are worth putting up with the disadvantages. The tires usually only need to be installed once or twice in their life and, generally, don't get leaks very often, if ever. You either get used to the stiffer ride, or you buy a better seat.
 

· Premium Member
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The reason a loaded tire will give you a rough ride is because the tire has been over filled with fluild, there MUST be a cushion of air to allow the tire to flex and give same as if it were only filled with air. Tires should never be filled above the valve stem when it is located at the 12 o clock position better yet 1 o clock. Me I use windshield washer fluid rated to -20 to load my tires, plenty cheap if you watch for sales.
 

· Super Moderator
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I mentioned hard ride, because I tried to soften them and got straight liquid.(previous owner filled them) To my knowledge cannot compress a liquid but with today's technology, who knows. :praying:.
Maybe It is just my old bones as I just got off from scraping weeds in the driveway and felt every ripple. Maybe 95% fluid and 5% air may be softer.:dunno:
The normal fill level is 75%. At more than that level, the ride gets measureably harder as the air chamber gets smaller. The tires on my GT were at 80-85% fill and the ride was quite stiff. That level is above the outside of the rim and several inches above the air valve which is in the smaller diameter of the rim proper.

My old bones are used to the firm ride, and my FEL likes the extra weight.
 

· OLD TIRED CDN. MECHANIC
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As Larry mentioned, calcium loading rusts the rims. A GT rim will be done for on about 12 years, which is why my FEL GT has been down for the past few years. QUOTE]

Bob, are you having trouble finding rims where you are. or finding time? Lots of eyes down here in the south.:OHCAN

[QUOTE
- When you do get stuck, the added weight also has to get unstuck.QUOTE]

Avery often overlooked consideration.

[QUOTE You either get used to the stiffer ride, or you buy a better seat.
It is not the "tractor's" seat that has the problem.:ROF
 

· Farmer in Adell
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, that was a lot of information that I would never have thought about.

Another question about filled tires - Can you unfill them and then go back to air (tubes if needed)? Or once they are filled you there is no going back?
 

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Wow, that was a lot of information that I would never have thought about.

Another question about filled tires - Can you unfill them and then go back to air (tubes if needed)? Or once they are filled you there is no going back?
Do you have a really BIG spare jug!!?? :dunno:

:sidelaugh

Nothing is stopping you from emptying them. Just a little more difficult than filling.

Most people just "dump" the liquid.

I find liquid in a GT makes it ride smoother. JMHO. I filled the fronts one time on a GT, just for better ride, it worked!! Again, IMHO!

As Tudor said 90% of the time weight is good.
 

· Super Moderator
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Wow, that was a lot of information that I would never have thought about.

Another question about filled tires - Can you unfill them and then go back to air (tubes if needed)? Or once they are filled you there is no going back?
The question here is "Why would you want to if you are working your tractor?"

CADplans answered the question and I'll just embellish a bit. The 26x12-12 tires on my GT were loaded with almost 15 gallons of CaCl each. That much fluid in an 8N's tires probably won't reach much more than the bottom of the rim, if that. Rim Guard costs about $4 per gallon, installed.

JohnW, the recommendeed max fill of 75% will reach about the bead of the tire. That puts the air valve about 1.5 - 2" below the level of the fluid when the valve is at 12 oclock. If you're getting air out when you depress the valve, you haven't got enough fluid for a 75% fill.

The primary objective for adding liguid ballast is to gain traction.The difference between the weight of Rim Guard and the weight of windshield washer fluid rated to -20* for my tires is a bit more than a set of MF 40 lb wheel weights and the wwf would freeze on some of our coldest days, the Rim Guard won't. Want a rough ride? I don't.

Around here windshield washer fluid rated at -35* will go on sale for $2.99 per gallon and weighs 7.5 lb per gallon. That's about 40 cents a pound. Rim Guard costs about 36 cents a pound. I want cheap weight, and lots of it for winter traction with a FEL. Windshield washer fluid doesn't qualify on either count.

Larry, I got a set of 6 bolt rims, thank you. I just need health, money, and time to install them and get a few minor repairs done to get both of my 1655's up and running. They each need batteries. I use group 27 Nautilus deep cycle marine batteries from CTC. Check the price the next time you're in there. I may have to downsize my batteries. :Disgus:
 

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if you live in a very soft area ya might not want fluid as it will make ya sink like a stone. as for me, all my rear tractor tires are loaded except the 5020 and it's 4wd. (still might not sure yet). another disadvantage is, if you get a flat you either have to load the tire again, drain the fluid from the other tire or be very careful, with the amount of weight on the side with the loaded tire will make it very unstable and want to roll over....believe me, I almost rolled over my 8n, fortunately the loader bucket hit the garage before she went sunny side up....I think my but actually puckered so hard it bent the metal seat...lol
 

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Bottom line is yes you can unload the tires but unless you put in new tubes you will not get every bit of it out. I unloaded/dumped the tire (only one was loaded, go figure) on my 850 then made up a connection to my shop vac and got most everything that was left below the valve stem at the 6 o clock position. There is still a little sloshing around but what the heck.
 

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A lot of good pros and cons about filled tires. But I would think you need to consider what you are going to use you tractor for. If you are going to just drive it in a 4th of July parade, then forget about filling them. But if you want to do some work with it and you don't live on a level area, then get them filled. Just a couple of thoughts.

Also if you have a filled tire in the back of a pickup with no tailgate, don't go up a steep hill. It is hard to pick up one of these things in the middle of the road! (been there done that).:banghead3
 

· Super Moderator
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My Kubota manual recommends NOT filling your tires if you put heavy downward loads on your implements, such as a backhoe.
In your locale, a TLB doesn't do double duty with snow removal as 50% of its work.

My hoe goes on the tractor in May and gets switched for a back blade in November. The hoe does a lousy job of cleaning the driveway. :Disgus:

The loaded tires stay on until they are done for.

The only downward load a hoe should apply to the tires is when transporting it. When the hoe is working, the tractor is supposed to be supported by the stabilizers. There should be no application of downward load by the hoe on the tires.
 

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Don't think I have ever operated or owned a tbl that did not have the tires loaded.
 

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I have a '50 8N that does not have filled tires for 2 main reasons:

1. My ground is dead flat.
2. Because the ground is flat (and clay soil), it holds water and I did not want to tear my pasture up...

I haven't had a single situation, to include plowing snow, where I wished the tires were filled.

You mileage may vary.....

John
 
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