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Farmall Super C no fire

7689 Views 23 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  sadixon49
Trying to get the ol farm tractor after sitting for about 10yrs hoping to work a small piece of ground. I have new points and condenser installed and weak 6V battery. Still nothing until I robbed the coil off the super M and have spark until battery peters out. Yet I always remember dad running this tractor without a functioning battery and charging system. Is it imperative that the battery be strong on these vintage systems ?? Thank you
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No problem. It's much easier working on them, setting in front of a keyboard, LOL... Glad you got the old girl running. They are sweet little tractors.

Since it's been a while since it has worked hard, and since it will be a week or so before you get back. Might be an idea to pick up a new oil filter, and some motor oil, and change it out. Here is the OEM part number: 376374R91. You can copy and paste it to a search, and get the filter that crosses to this number. Or, give it to the parts guy to cross. Not sure what parts stores you have available to you there, but they should be able to cross it. Most common would be a Fram C135. Also, there is a small square shoulder rubber gasket in the filter base, to replace. Should be a new one with the new filter. Something like a mechanics pick, or an ice pick will remove it. Clean the groove well once removed, then press the new one in. When you tighten the filter housing, just snug it good. No need to horse on it,and strip the threads.

OEM specs called for straight Non-det. 30wt. in the summer. 20wt. in cooler temps, and 10wt. below freezing. Newer manuals say 10w30 can be used. I've pretty well got everything weaned over to 15W40 here, and have been for 20 years or so. No problems so far.

Get some pics and post, once you get going... We love pictures..!! :)
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Hi DJ, I took your advice and just called out local NAPA store and they have a C135 cartridge type oil filter in stock for $7 and being I run and had great luck with 15W/40 in my diesels and I feel it's a fine multi temp oil that I'll run it in the Super C as you've suggested also.

I hate to admit this but the info I found on the Rear end lube said SAE 80, I thought and actually I reacted too quickly and added about 1/2 ltr of SAE 20 Motor oil. After I poured it into floor pan fill hole it hit me that you Dumb A** Ernie those are gears back there and you should've put in Hypoy 80 or 80/90 gear oil Not Motor oil. I'm going to run it for this small field I need to Disc as it shouldn't take me long to roll this dirt and now not sure being I've read it takes like 5 gallons to fill that rear end or for all that's in it for motor oil, if I'll be ok to leave it for the little bit I added. I only needed to add that 1/2 ltr of motor oil and then about 1/2 ltr of 80/90 gear oil to have it start to run out the small hole in lower right rear of tranny. Sometimes the things I do then realize afterwards. Sheesh. What do you think DJ.
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I think the worst that can happen, it may help clean the rear end up a bit, LOL. The newer motor oils have anti-foaming agents in them, so shouldn't be a problem. No yellow metal to worry about. It would be so diluted, doubt it even thins it down any, if at all.

The last Fiat-Allis we got at work used motor oil in everything, including the hydraulics.
Most people don't know that 20 weight motor oil is almost exactly the same viscosity as 80 weight gear oil. 75W is about 10 weight, 90 is between 40 and 50 weight, so a 75W-90 gear oil is just about the same as 10-40/10W-50 motor oil. Look at the chart below, find 80W gear oil and read across to find the equivalent motor oil.



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