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Farmall Super C no fire

7678 Views 23 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  sadixon49
Trying to get the ol farm tractor after sitting for about 10yrs hoping to work a small piece of ground. I have new points and condenser installed and weak 6V battery. Still nothing until I robbed the coil off the super M and have spark until battery peters out. Yet I always remember dad running this tractor without a functioning battery and charging system. Is it imperative that the battery be strong on these vintage systems ?? Thank you
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Thanks DJ, I guess I'll have to get engine running first before I can test if the generator is working.
I'm stumped though as how dad was able to use thAt tractor with the ammeter also showing discharge. He had a bunch of restored farmalls that I couldn't look after all of them and 11 yrs later I regret not keeping my great Uncles Super H but at the time I was simply overwhelmed with them all. I still kept the gorgeous Super M and this Super C but she's rough.

Any straight forward method of testing charge on generator ?? Thanks again.
Goes to show how much I truly don't know about these systems DJ,, I always thought if the tractor was equipped with a Magneto, then it was self contained to fire the ignition. Or on the other hand, if it had a 6V battery and distributor caps points and condenser, then it wouldn't have a Mag.

I remember from years ago when the dial to turn on the headlights was turn to the first click, the ammeter would show a "discharge" so man I'm stumped as to what's wrong with it other than once the battery drains so does the tractor engine power.

know I've tried about everything I know of to get her going and still she won't even Snap. I bought a new 6V coil for it yesterday and didn't pay close attention to the polarity of the old coil. The - side wire to coil from on/off switch I think then + side of coil to distributor gave minimal spark through spark tester and I thought I'd try reversing polarity and maybe take a chance of burning coil out but way better spark but still not starting. Frustrating to say the least. Haha.
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Yes getting fuel to cylinders and she floods so easily. Then I'll shut choke and fuel petcock off and still nothing. I've also tryied priming a pair of cylinders and she just won't snap.

At times when I give it a hard full crank on the start handle, it'll seem at times it'll roll over like it trying to start but just don't get that tell tale bark out the muffler. Bought tried everything I know how to do but pull my hair out. Like that would solve anything. I've been at this now for about 5 different days to no avail.
I forgot to mention that the starter doesn't work either. Sounds like something Sandford and Son might own. Haha. Of all the gorgeous restorations dad completed with about 6 farmalls that I ended up selling for Mom after Dad passed away in 04' I had to keep this ol girl and the Super M but in all fairness this Super C was Dads only work tractor that he would allow Dirt on the tires and besides it has Hydraulics when none of the others did.

You're right though DJ, normally a few partial cranks with full choke and throttle about 1/3 then choke off and away she would go but it's say now for 11yrs and I never thought she'd give me so much grief to bring her back to life again.

Not sure why but Dad seemed content to not have everything working on this C when all his other show tractors were immaculate with everything working as it did from the factory.

I know the battery has a full charge on it now and push in on the start button on the starter and there's nothing. No noise at all. Another piece to the puzzle.
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Good stuff DJ, I'll go out and give that a try with the starter. Thank You for the info.

One of the very first things I did was to pull apart all connections to inspect for corrosion and clean although everything look decent.

Any idea of I have that ignition coil hooked up right though ?? I don't wanna burn her out prematurely if I can help it.

Negative side of coil goes to the primary wire that runs along tractor frame that I believe comes from push/pull on/off switch. Then positive + side primary runs down to distributor for points and condenser. But she throws much hotter spark than - to points.
Unreal DJ I got the starter to work. Yee hah. Now to get the rest of it running. Haha
Can't believe what I found but I kept thinking I had timing issues and the distributor cap is marked #1 furthest away from engine but I finally decided to pull the valve cover and check compression of #1 and the rotor faced 180* out (which would be #4) so I changed wires so #1 was closest to engine (where 4 was suppose to be according to service manual ) and set wires to 1-3-4-2 and I no more hit the starter button and bang away she purred. Makes no sense to me how or why but she's running and sounding good at idle. Ruined the valve cover cork gasket but I'm thrilled she's finally running. Thanks again DJ for hanging with me on this.

Hey maybe I could ask you why the ammeter shows discharge when I turn the knob for lights on ?? It's always done this as long as I can remember and would love to have it charging. Thanks again DJ. Ernie
All was going great until I just went to out in into gear and she's grinding so bad it must be low on fluid of some kind. Engine oil is up though. Does the clutch run off same tank as hydraulic fluid for attachments ??
I see the manual calls for SAE 80 in the transmission. Heaviest I've seen in local parts supply stores is 30.

I'm wondering too what weight for the hydraulic tank ?? Thanks again.
Yes I caught myself after I sent last reply that indeed it is a dry mechanical clutch DJ thankfully I found some proper hydraulic fluid Dad had bought and I added a bit to the reservoir. I left the fill cap off until I hooked the discs up and cycled them a few times in case I had over filled it, any excess could run out fill hole which it didn't.

I found the square nut on right rear of drive axle and added enough 80/90 gear oil by gear shift until it started to run out of the lower right. It was dark but certainly not milky

Found out though that leaving these old tractors without running them the clutch will seize up and no way could I get it into gear with engine started as it ground like crazy. Thankfully was able to find a thread on the good ol internet where you pull the tractor with switch OFF and in 3rd or 4th gear and clutch pedal depressed for 20'-30' then hook onto rear of tractor and do same in reverse and sure enough it freed up the clutch in short order. Got it hooked up to the old 8' set of discs out back. Greased them up and pumped the tires up and made sure the discs were turning freely. Just got it ready to turn ground and in come the rain again and left some sizeable water pockets laying in the small 2 acre field I wanted to work haha so I'll have to wait now until next weekend when I return to our farm to try the setup out. I never thought it could so much trouble and frustration getting this vintage equipment up and running again but it's proven to be rewarding too. Thanks to a person like yourself DJ for hanging in there with me to get me going is something I certainly appreciate. God bless you sir. Ernie Roberts
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Hi DJ, I took your advice and just called out local NAPA store and they have a C135 cartridge type oil filter in stock for $7 and being I run and had great luck with 15W/40 in my diesels and I feel it's a fine multi temp oil that I'll run it in the Super C as you've suggested also.

I hate to admit this but the info I found on the Rear end lube said SAE 80, I thought and actually I reacted too quickly and added about 1/2 ltr of SAE 20 Motor oil. After I poured it into floor pan fill hole it hit me that you Dumb A** Ernie those are gears back there and you should've put in Hypoy 80 or 80/90 gear oil Not Motor oil. I'm going to run it for this small field I need to Disc as it shouldn't take me long to roll this dirt and now not sure being I've read it takes like 5 gallons to fill that rear end or for all that's in it for motor oil, if I'll be ok to leave it for the little bit I added. I only needed to add that 1/2 ltr of motor oil and then about 1/2 ltr of 80/90 gear oil to have it start to run out the small hole in lower right rear of tranny. Sometimes the things I do then realize afterwards. Sheesh. What do you think DJ.
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