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Farmall Super C no fire

7690 Views 23 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  sadixon49
Trying to get the ol farm tractor after sitting for about 10yrs hoping to work a small piece of ground. I have new points and condenser installed and weak 6V battery. Still nothing until I robbed the coil off the super M and have spark until battery peters out. Yet I always remember dad running this tractor without a functioning battery and charging system. Is it imperative that the battery be strong on these vintage systems ?? Thank you
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If the generator is working, it should provide enough for it to run, even with a weak battery.You could try jumping it, and as said, if the generator & voltage regulator are working, it should run.

Just don't kill it, while in the back 40...
If the battery at that time, would have held some what of a charge, it would run off of it, until the batter is nearly dead. So putting it on a charger for a while, then hand cranking it to start, it would run for a good while. Unless of course it was equipped with a magneto, which is only required for the starting system, not the ignition.

Other than taking it to a generator repair shop, there is a way to test them called the motor test. I've read about it, but never tried it. It will, I believe take a charged battery to do the test though. If you do a search for motor testing a generator, I'm sure one will give step by step instructions.
Are you getting fuel to the cylinders/plugs..?? If you've turned it over numerous times with the choke applied, the plugs should be wet. If they are not, it may be a fuel delivery problem, not ignition.
On any of mine, at most, two cranks at full choke, then knock it off is all it takes to get gas up, enough to start, at about 1/3 throttle. Normally within any where from 1, to 3 cranks and they start.

If you have a decent set of jumper cables, might be an idea to jump it to start, with the starter. Just make sure it's positive to positive, and negative to negative. And don't crank on it too long. Once you get it running, it may not take that much to get it started by hand.

My one Super C at the other place hasn't been ran since last Sept. I needed to move it in the barn last Wed. After putting the battery charger on it for a half hour, two cranks full choke, knocked it off, and the next crank she started. Love that ole' tractor...
It could be the contact surfaces under the rocker type starting switch have arced, and burned enough, to not make contact. Just remove the wires from it, and isolate so as not to touch the chassis, then remove the two screws, and look underneath. Using the end of a medium sized flat file, you can clean the contact underneath, or turn it 180º, and use the other side of the beveled surface to make contact. Then touch up the button stud on the starter.

It may also be the ground cable, where it attaches to the chassis. Remove it, and clean well, so it has a bright surface to make contact on the chassis. I've seen the crimped on cable ends loose too. A bad ground connection could be a cause of weak spark also.
If you're set up with a positive ground, as it should be, + should go to the distributor.

Being the starter grounds itself to the chassis through the case, you might want to remove it, or at least the bolts, and make sure there is some bright connection under the mounting bolts/lock washers, and threaded holes the mounting bolts thread in to.
If the lights are working, apparently they are drawing more amperage, than the generator is putting out, if it is putting anything out at all. It's probably just showing that it is discharging the battery. Should be a 4 position switch, and there should be a decal, with 4 letters on it. L,H,D,B. L = Low charge. H = High charge. D = Dim lights B = Bright lights, and should light up the rear light if it has one.

Might check around for local starter/alternator/generator repair shop. They can bench test it, and see if it is working. Unless the armature is bad, they can make it like new again with new bearings, brushes, etc. for, at least around here about $75 U.S. It could be it's just needing a voltage regulator. I get decent one's through my starter repair guy for around $45-$50.

No problem, glad to help... That's what we're all here for..!!
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You kind of lost me on the "Does the clutch run off same tank as hydraulic fluid for attachments ??" That is a dry clutch, and the hydraulic reservoir sets under the gas tank. There is no oil reservoir in the torque tube.

There is a small square head, transmission level check plug behind the right axle housing. I believe it is just under the center line of the PTO shaft.

Most auto parts places do carry 80-90 wt oil. If you want to drain it, and refill, it will take 5 gallons. If you drain it, and the oil looks milky, it would be best to get several gallons of cheap automatic trans fluid, like Dexron II. Pour that, plus a quart of isopropyl/ rubbing alcohol in the tranny, then drive it around for a bit. The Dexron II is high detergent, and will wash the interior of the trans down. The alcohol will remove any water that may be in there. You can even throw in a gallon of diesel fuel if it makes you feel better. After driving it around for a bit, drain immediately while crud is suspended in the mixture. Let it drain completely, then add the new trans oil.

For the hydraulics, Hy-Tran is the OEM brand oil, but a good auto/truck supply should carry a Trans-draulic fluid. Just make sure to read the label, and make sure it meets Hy-Tran specs. It is pretty thin, comparable to a 10 weight oil. A lot of guys use 30 weight non-detergent in the hydraulics, in case the seal in the hydraulic pump may be leaking, so as not to dilute the engine oil with Hy-Tran, or it's equivalent. But it could make the hydraulics pretty slow in cold weather. I use a Hy-Tran equivalent myself, but I do check the hydraulic level frequently, and engine oil every time I use it.
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No problem. It's much easier working on them, setting in front of a keyboard, LOL... Glad you got the old girl running. They are sweet little tractors.

Since it's been a while since it has worked hard, and since it will be a week or so before you get back. Might be an idea to pick up a new oil filter, and some motor oil, and change it out. Here is the OEM part number: 376374R91. You can copy and paste it to a search, and get the filter that crosses to this number. Or, give it to the parts guy to cross. Not sure what parts stores you have available to you there, but they should be able to cross it. Most common would be a Fram C135. Also, there is a small square shoulder rubber gasket in the filter base, to replace. Should be a new one with the new filter. Something like a mechanics pick, or an ice pick will remove it. Clean the groove well once removed, then press the new one in. When you tighten the filter housing, just snug it good. No need to horse on it,and strip the threads.

OEM specs called for straight Non-det. 30wt. in the summer. 20wt. in cooler temps, and 10wt. below freezing. Newer manuals say 10w30 can be used. I've pretty well got everything weaned over to 15W40 here, and have been for 20 years or so. No problems so far.

Get some pics and post, once you get going... We love pictures..!! :)
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I think the worst that can happen, it may help clean the rear end up a bit, LOL. The newer motor oils have anti-foaming agents in them, so shouldn't be a problem. No yellow metal to worry about. It would be so diluted, doubt it even thins it down any, if at all.

The last Fiat-Allis we got at work used motor oil in everything, including the hydraulics.
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