Farmall Super C no fire

If the lights are working, apparently they are drawing more amperage, than the generator is putting out, if it is putting anything out at all. It's probably just showing that it is discharging the battery. Should be a 4 position switch, and there should be a decal, with 4 letters on it. L,H,D,B. L = Low charge. H = High charge. D = Dim lights B = Bright lights, and should light up the rear light if it has one.

Might check around for local starter/alternator/generator repair shop. They can bench test it, and see if it is working. Unless the armature is bad, they can make it like new again with new bearings, brushes, etc. for, at least around here about $75 U.S. It could be it's just needing a voltage regulator. I get decent one's through my starter repair guy for around $45-$50.

No problem, glad to help... That's what we're all here for..!!

You kind of lost me on the "Does the clutch run off same tank as hydraulic fluid for attachments ??" That is a dry clutch, and the hydraulic reservoir sets under the gas tank. There is no oil reservoir in the torque tube.

There is a small square head, transmission level check plug behind the right axle housing. I believe it is just under the center line of the PTO shaft.

Most auto parts places do carry 80-90 wt oil. If you want to drain it, and refill, it will take 5 gallons. If you drain it, and the oil looks milky, it would be best to get several gallons of cheap automatic trans fluid, like Dexron II. Pour that, plus a quart of isopropyl/ rubbing alcohol in the tranny, then drive it around for a bit. The Dexron II is high detergent, and will wash the interior of the trans down. The alcohol will remove any water that may be in there. You can even throw in a gallon of diesel fuel if it makes you feel better. After driving it around for a bit, drain immediately while crud is suspended in the mixture. Let it drain completely, then add the new trans oil.

For the hydraulics, Hy-Tran is the OEM brand oil, but a good auto/truck supply should carry a Trans-draulic fluid. Just make sure to read the label, and make sure it meets Hy-Tran specs. It is pretty thin, comparable to a 10 weight oil. A lot of guys use 30 weight non-detergent in the hydraulics, in case the seal in the hydraulic pump may be leaking, so as not to dilute the engine oil with Hy-Tran, or it's equivalent. But it could make the hydraulics pretty slow in cold weather. I use a Hy-Tran equivalent myself, but I do check the hydraulic level frequently, and engine oil every time I use it.

No problem. It's much easier working on them, setting in front of a keyboard, LOL... Glad you got the old girl running. They are sweet little tractors.

Since it's been a while since it has worked hard, and since it will be a week or so before you get back. Might be an idea to pick up a new oil filter, and some motor oil, and change it out. Here is the OEM part number: 376374R91. You can copy and paste it to a search, and get the filter that crosses to this number. Or, give it to the parts guy to cross. Not sure what parts stores you have available to you there, but they should be able to cross it. Most common would be a Fram C135. Also, there is a small square shoulder rubber gasket in the filter base, to replace. Should be a new one with the new filter. Something like a mechanics pick, or an ice pick will remove it. Clean the groove well once removed, then press the new one in. When you tighten the filter housing, just snug it good. No need to horse on it,and strip the threads.

OEM specs called for straight Non-det. 30wt. in the summer. 20wt. in cooler temps, and 10wt. below freezing. Newer manuals say 10w30 can be used. I've pretty well got everything weaned over to 15W40 here, and have been for 20 years or so. No problems so far.

Get some pics and post, once you get going... We love pictures..!!