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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
Getting sick of me yet? Hopefully I am just overlooking something. Maybe I have to bleed the lines or something, maybe I am low on hyd oil. I gotta remove that crazy plumbing to fill the resivoir.
At any rate I have the 3 point hitch hooked up and the hydraulic line on there, breather on the exhaust port on the ram.
I pull back the lever (with the clutch out of course) It goes up.
I put it back to the little stay nub or whatever you want to call it, it goes down instead of stay.
I let the handle all the way down and it goes down a little faster but down none the less.

All the way back-up (which is right)
in the middle-down(im pretty sure its supposed to hold)
all the way forward-down a little faster (which is right)

My pressure line is hooked up to the forward port, left side. I think I read that both were pressure lines but the rear on the left was a delayed line.

Any Ideas?

Thanks guys,
Andrew
 

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Have you tried hold it just off where the nub catches..?? Maybe worn some, or something bent allowing it to go back further than intended, valve wise, not so much control rod position.

Otherwise, the manual says it could be a sign of the check valves leaking, and they are internal in the pump.

Here is a link to the IH online parts manual, that shows the Super M hyd. pump, in an exploded view. Hopefully, it will show the location of the check valve(s) with a red dot, as I have it now. http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr56557ar446846

Did you check the hydraulic oil to see if it was milky? Could be a little gob of snot not letting the check valves seat, or little check ball may be corroded bad enough to let oil seep around. Even the possibility of a broken check valve spring.

I'd sure try the control rod thing first, and see if it will catch it at some point. Make sure the hyd. oil is clean, and not milky. It would be a lot easier to flush that system if it is, rather than having to drop the belly pump, for R&R.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yup I see them. I will try flushing it tonight if I get a chance to and then see what it does. If held for a few mins when I was moving it up and down for the umpteenth time. Hopefully that is it. If not it looks like 17 bucks in parts, and a good amount of time and I should be able to fix it. Man I gotta get on that manual.
back to lookin on ePay!
Thanks DJ
 

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according to the short manual I have, the "no hold on neutral" could be dirty lines, plugged or low flow at the filter, leaky valves, or worn out pump. My manual is for the 300, and then 400-450 series, which replaced the M letter tractors. seems like the parts are fairly similar though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Alright now we are making headway. So I drained the fluid, it didnt look milky at all. capacity is 6 quarts correct? I put in thereabouts.
So i lifted, and then let it go and it held! Then I lifted, then it didnt hold, but i saw a sneeze out of the breather(the other way for the 2 way ram).

So I am hoping and praying I just need to rebuild the hydraulic ram. Makes sense right?
...So any idea where I can find a repair kit for a Cross 3x8 cylinder?
 

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So you do have it plumbed for double action, as in to have down pressure..?? It could possibly be passing the seals, but the cylinder would have to be in pretty bad shape. I guess you could crack the line on the return side, and see if that much oil is bypassing. If they (lift arms) are falling with no weight on, I'm still guessing the check valve.

If it were plumbed just a single acting cylinder, and the cylinder seals were bad, it would squirt oil out the breather vent, when it dropped back down.

There was no point, where it would hold, before the nub caught, to be in neutral position, but yet, not in lift mode..??

Did you check the hyd. oil level after cycling again..?? 6 qts. won't go far filling hoses, plus both sides of the cylinder, if it were completely drained. Once everything is filled, then check level. If it wasn't full at that time.

Have you tried it with a bit of weight on, say like a grader blade..?? If there is a piece of something caught in the check valve, maybe a faster rush of oil back through could dislodge it.

I'd have to take a close look at the exploded view of the pump mechansm again, but if I were a betting man, I'd guess a weak check valve spring, or just leaking check valve. If I remember correctly, that is just a steel ball. If it has a bad spot, doubt it will turn much to reseat itself in a different position, but could be wrong...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have it plumbed acting as a single cylinder. So pressure to the bottom cylinder port, and nothing on the top (except the breather). And out of that breather was the squirting oil when I lifted the backblade back up.

There is no down pressure, I am relying on gravity to provide down pressure.
I currently have my Dads 6 foot back blade on it for testing purposes.

The line was full (lower than the elbow so it wouldnt have drained that) but the cylinder would take some fluid I am sure. I will top that off as well.

Check balls are no big deal, I did the one in my old shovelhead last summer cause it would puke oil once in a while. Just a little wear in the ball bearing and there is the leak.

I figure I could probably do the bellypump removal/repair in a weekend. Looks easy enough anyways. I will do the hand jack lowering of it I think. I can get a buddy over this weekend. I will do that along with the seals in the hyd cylinder too.

I just have to find a place to order a spring and a check ball.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got a dealer down the way with check balls in stock. Lets hope it's that not a valve


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First off I like to see when threads have an ending, not just the end of conversation.
Maybe there is someone out there who was searching online and is having the same problem I was having, who knows.
So here is what I did.
I read that the rear left port for hydraulics is the "delay" port which was used for plows and to let the rear plows stay in the field for the little time the front ones needed to be pulled up, for exiting the field.
I read somewhere in countless hours of searching that this delay port runs off a separate valve, while the forward left and only right ports are off of the same valve and have a T fitting in between them.
I simply moved to the "delay" port to see if that valve was working up to par, and low and behold! IT IS!
I am sure in the next ten years or so I will pull the belly pump and service the valves ( I am pretty sure it is just a worn check ball, just like on my old shovelhead) but in the mean time if anyone else is having this problem and they are in the middle of moving to a new house and have a 5 week old son, this is a quick easy solution for the time being.
Thanks again guys
 
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