[bmwpowere36m3]

So I pulled the plastic dash off my 210 while I do repairs. Like many others I've seen of that vintage they're faded, splotchy and discolored. I assume the raised lettering/symbols originally were transfer-printed/painted/coated silver. My dash was faded and all the letters/emblems were the same "black" as the rest of the dash.

I started by cleaning the dash thoroughly with heavy-duty degreaser and a stiff brush a couple of times. That itself made the dash look a little better, but it was still faded with some grey-colored splotches. I proceeded to spray multiple light coats of enamel-reducer with a HVLP gun about 10 mins apart (total 5-6 coats). I had some old Valspar enamel reducer laying around that I used. Granted I had urethane too, but I figured enamel might be better if I need to paint the dash down the road with something like Krylon fusion (I think enamel-based).

With the first coat the dash started looking better, shiny/"wet"... which I assumed would subside as the reducer flashed-off. However it didn't It only got better with the following "coats". I say coats, but nothing is being transferred/built-up on the plastic.

The dash turned out awesome... maybe not 100%, but I'd say 95%. I let it dry overnight and I see no side-effects. Now to re-paint those letters/symbols and to apply UV protectant to the dash (like 303 aerospace).

Last Thoughts

Do it

My theory: reducer is primarily highly-volatile solvents and "harsh" ones at that... like MEK, Xylene, etc... Those solvents, I think, soften and melt the surface of the plastic. Cleaning off the oxidation on the surface and exposing "fresh" plastic below.

The reducer probably should only be sprayed. If brushed, it could leave marks and/or damage the surface "textures" as the plastic is in its softened-state. When spraying, it's important to keep the coats very, very light. I got a little heavy on one of the coats and it caused small runs (of plastic), which I lightly sanded and re-sprayed.

Oh, and I'll add some pictures later

 

[KATT]

Sorry for the bad pic I was shooting into the light, but mine were all black and worn off.
I used an automotive touch-up pen ( like a marker not a brush).
The 175 was silver. It is very firm so you can use a very light touch.

 

[four.cycle]

no idea what a "210" is - I just do little walk-behinds - but for what it's worth, my two cents:

plastic parts: best cleaner - dishwasher. wheels/shroud covers/belt guards. I usually pour some bleach into the dishwasher along with the dishwasher detergent.
note: parts get pressure-washed before they go into the dishwasher for the final cleaning.
(after cleaning lawnmower parts I run it through another cycle empty with some more bleach.)
if it won't fit in the dishwasher: TSP and hot water and a scrub brush.

Armor-All: not worth a hoot.

solvents: big no-no on plastic. it will melt.

Krylon "Fusion" Satin Black: amazing stuff. dries in 20 minutes. cures in 5 weeks enough to be fairly gasoline-proof. (that's how long this old Murray sat before it was sold and the customer poured gas all over it - it mottled the paint on the tank a wee bit, but didn't wash it off.)

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

no idea what a "210" is - I just do little walk-behinds - but for what it's worth, my two cents:

plastic parts: best cleaner - dishwasher. wheels/shroud covers/belt guards. I usually pour some bleach into the dishwasher along with the dishwasher detergent.
note: parts get pressure-washed before they go into the dishwasher for the final cleaning.
(after cleaning lawnmower parts I run it through another cycle empty with some more bleach.)
if it won't fit in the dishwasher: TSP and hot water and a scrub brush.

Armor-All: not worth a hoot.

solvents: big no-no on plastic. it will melt.


Krylon "Fusion" Satin Black: amazing stuff. dries in 20 minutes. cures in 5 weeks enough to be fairly gasoline-proof. (that's how long this old Murray sat before it was sold and the customer poured gas all over it - it mottled the paint on the tank a wee bit, but didn't wash it off.)

Thanks, but I wasn't asking for advice. I basically sprayed solvent onto the black plastic dash and it totally restored it back to a shiny surface. I need to post a picture when I get home.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Sorry for the bad pic I was shooting into the light, but mine were all black and worn off.
I used an automotive touch-up pen ( like a marker not a brush).
The 175 was silver. It is very firm so you can use a very light touch.

That was my plan as well... either silver or yellow (just because I have a yellow one on-hand).

 

[Rydplrs]

dish detergent and bleach = poison (mustard)gas

Most dish soaps have amines, which can be so similar to ammonia they create the same toxic gasses

 

[four.cycle]

ahh... good to know! glad I'm doing it with all the doors and windows open! :thThumbsU

 

[Rydplrs]

it is a long term health hazard too.

No amount is safe, even if you feel fine at the time

 

[CADplans]

I believe what the OP did with the reducer is similar to what happens when the ends of a plastic rope are heated with a flame.

The reducer "fused" the ends of the molecules,,, resulting in a nice, hard surface.

I may have to try this!! :fing32:

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I believe what the OP did with the reducer is similar to what happens when the ends of a plastic rope are heated with a flame.

The reducer "fused" the ends of the molecules,,, resulting in a nice, hard surface.

I may have to try this!!

Similar to flame shining plastic kids toys or kayaks... Except with chemicals or solvents in this case.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I don't have a before picture, but this is kind of what it looked like (discolored, faded, greyish):

This is after:


It's hard to capture due to the "shine" and reflections from light source. I'll get another picture after I paint the raised portions.

 

[larrybl]

Krylon Black Plastic paint and Plastic Welder epoxy helped with this.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I thought about Krylon fusion paint... but this worked almost too well and I don't have to worry about paint chipping, peeling off.

The only unknown is whether the "finish" will last, but I'll apply some 303 aerospace protectant from time to time.

Now I'm wondering if I can do the same with other plastic bits... such as knobs (colored ones for the PTO, shifter, etc...).

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Highlighted symbols with a silver paint pen (couple of coats):

 

[FuzzFace2]

Highlighted symbols with a silver paint pen (couple of coats):

That looks better than new.

You guys are right the solvent melts the plastic to make it all shinny again.
I would have washed it with dish soap & hot water to de-grease it before painting. SEMS makes paints & clears for plastic/vinyl that work vary good
Flexible Coatings Products | SEM Products
and would use this to paint it. Works great on a car I am restoring.
Dave ----

 

[nick4030]

Wow that's really cool. Looks brand new

 

[mrbacklash]

Try vaseline and a toothbrush to work it into the plastic. it is pretty magical and no paint to peel, chip or fade. once you work it in wipe it off with some simple green