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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Been very busy with my F22D....I used the FEL to clear snow back in winter and now Spring is here all has been well using the GEO TL rotary tiller/rotovator, did a big field for a friend and my own patch.....but now I have come to use the mower again all works but the 3 point linkage is dropping unless the tractor engine is running quite fast and it is slow to pick up, cold or warm. (on tickover the 3 point slowly drops) I have tried to make a diffference with subtle adjustment of the drop valve (below the front of the seat) but can make no difference. The mower is a heavy GEO AGL 125 swing out flail mower (more of a mulcher than a mower it destroys the grass!!) it is a very versatile piece of kit but I wonder if it is at the limit of an F22Ds capability. I have had a look at the filter which looks new (so if it was actually new when supplied as I was told it was - it is a Japanese filter CAPA by make) but obviously now has two summers use on it. The transmission oil is ATF and looks fairly clean (should it be ATF??? and can I change it to a more usual Hydraulic fluid?) So what can I do to sort out this dropping problem? After a hard days use with the tiller it will drop slowly but with the heavier mower it creaks its way down in a minute or two. (I can stop it by locking off the valve but even if I open it a tiny bit the linkage will drop as soon as the engine is on tickover or stopped). Note: FEL is fine and does drop slightly, but over weeks not seconds. Also Note: towards the end of last year when mowing the 3 point had a bit of a slight 'bounce' to it when warmed up and lifting/carrying the mower....this 'bounce' has gone to be replaced by the 'dropping' effect. Help and advice will be welcomed gladly especially about whether I should be on ATF or something else in the trans.
 

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An opinion is all I have to offer, not concrete diagnosis. I do not believe the atf is your problem after reading these forums and gaining knowledge of many using it, especially in colder climates.

If your front lift is lifting with the same speed as always that would indicate your 3 point is where the problem lies. If I am understanding correctly your 3 point is remaining up if you completely close the valve. If this is correct then that rules out the lift piston or lift piston o-rings as being bad.

Only thing left is the 3 point control valve. It has several components that could cause your symptoms. I am not very familiar with the F series but I believe your control valve has two relief valves. One is for maximum operating pressure and one is for sudden impact. (such as the heavy mower bouncing). Either of these relief valves could be leaking by because of trash, broken spring, etc. Also the seals in the lift control valve could be bad.

Do you have a parts or service manual for your tractor?

Not positive but I believe your F22 also has a suction screen that might need cleaning. If the loader is operating at correct speed this should not be your problem.

Just some thoughts. I don't have a doctorate is diagnosticology. :D
 

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My GT is doing the same thing after many years of up and down with the 3PH. In my case, the valve body is worn to the point of a high level of internal leakage and it will no longer lift the implement.

After you ensure that the reliefs are in good order, repair or replace the control valve if the problem persists.

I'm one of those who uses ATF in my hydraulics due to the majority of hours being for winter service. Easier on the system components at -30* C and no problem at 35* C. The automatic transmission in my truck has the same fluid in it and the transmission cooler is in the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Just a quick note and a measure of thanks for the help given, Winston your help is appreciated but...this part of Poland is a very hot place...regularly in the high 20s centigrade in summertime - it is down to -30c in winter, but this is the hottest part of Poland in summer. (I know we all think of Poland as cold like Russia, I did before I came to live here) One of my problems is the hydraulic lines that are close to my elbow getting really hot and burning me...I put some pipe insulation round one of the metal elbows and the stuff melted like chocolate!!!!! I,m thinking that for summer I need an oil cooler of some sort. I have found some parts catalogues and instruction manuals on line and I,m not afraid to take things apart, so I,ll get to it on those relief valves....My big problem with ATF is that here I can only buy it in 1 Litre bottles, makes it damned expensive!!!
 

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Normal operating temperature of a hydraulic system is 60* - 70*C, 80*C is acceptable and 90* is starting to run hot and a cooler is needed.

Under 60*C, any water in suspension will stay in suspension and isn't likely to evaporate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well....I seem to have solved it: I hope the following will help anyone else who has an F22D and the same symptoms. I started to take off the tinwork, got just the two rear plates off and started to undo the bolts holding the plate under the seat......I had to tilt the seat forward....and lo and behold under the seat was another slider control....I started the engine and experimented.....and with the slider in its furthest position all was well....the 3 point positively 'shot up' even with the mower attached.....somehow the slider had been slowly but surely moving into a position which shuts the 3 point down. The slider has a wingnut on it that I have now tightened into a locked position. Is this control just an F22D thing or do other Yanmars have a hidden control under the seat (right hand side-but you can,t see it until the seat is fully tilted forward. Took me 5 mins to put back the tinwork and I have been busy mowing again and all is wonderful again.
 
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