Exhaust manifold!!
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Believe you are going to have to bite the bullet on this and drain the coolant not any real good way to hold the stud while removing the nut unless you decide to cut the nut off and replace it. If you do be sure to get brass nuts to replace them so you do not have this issue again.
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If you have a dremel tool you might be able to cut a slot in the nut with a cut off disc,that will let it open up and unscrew and hopefully the stud will stay put while you remove the nut..
Someone skilled with a cutting torch could slot the nut the same way too,without damaging the manifold..
They do sell "nut splitters" too,but I haven't had much luck using them,most of the time the tool is too big to fit in where it needs to go,or the nut doesn't split open,it just gets squashed and makes things worse..I've had the tool split before the nut did too !..
Someone skilled with a cutting torch could slot the nut the same way too,without damaging the manifold..
They do sell "nut splitters" too,but I haven't had much luck using them,most of the time the tool is too big to fit in where it needs to go,or the nut doesn't split open,it just gets squashed and makes things worse..I've had the tool split before the nut did too !..
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5,676 Posts
I believe the best thing would be to use JB Weld to build up the block where it is eroded from leaking. Build it up and let it cure real good then sand it back flat, it is a bit of work but it seems to last as good or better than most other efforts at repairing the block when the manifold leaks.
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Do you think the liquid type jb weld would be better or the kind that comes in a stick?
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201 Posts
If the person before you owned it, screwed in the stud on a stud that went into a water jacket. Without using a sealer on the threads.
( Sealer usually used is permatex gasket black or red sealer on the threads. Water-oil-heat proof. ) Eventually the coolant will seep thru the threads and pit where the bold and threads meet.
JB is a good thing for as JohnW and Radnack said. On the face where the gasket seats. Put it on and scrape with a razor blade and go a little higher to use a wood block later when dry with 120 grit sand paper to finish it flat.
On the threads, do the same with JB. Coat the stud with it, screw it in, let cure 24 hrs? Back it out. Then re-install with permatex on the threads. By the by, to take out a stud. Double nut it. Take the original nut off, go to the hardware store to get a exact replacement, thread size. Put the original nut on, the 2nd nut goes on next. Over the original. Hold the 2nd nut firm, wrench on the original and back the 1st nut off to bind against the 2nd nut. Wrench on the top nut to back it out.
On the JB, I replaced the intake manifold gaskets on my 2003 Sonoma truck with the 4.3 V6. Long and short, originals were plastic body's with plastic seals around the intake holes. New gaskets were from Fel-Pro. Metal body with rubber seals around the intakes on the head. The heads had a lot of pitting around the intake ports. JB weld, I smeared JB over all of it. Little higher using my razor blade.
220 grit sand paper over a wood block, back and forth with a figure 8 pattern. 100,000 miles later still good to go. Yuppers I've owned for quite a few years.
( Sealer usually used is permatex gasket black or red sealer on the threads. Water-oil-heat proof. ) Eventually the coolant will seep thru the threads and pit where the bold and threads meet.
JB is a good thing for as JohnW and Radnack said. On the face where the gasket seats. Put it on and scrape with a razor blade and go a little higher to use a wood block later when dry with 120 grit sand paper to finish it flat.
On the threads, do the same with JB. Coat the stud with it, screw it in, let cure 24 hrs? Back it out. Then re-install with permatex on the threads. By the by, to take out a stud. Double nut it. Take the original nut off, go to the hardware store to get a exact replacement, thread size. Put the original nut on, the 2nd nut goes on next. Over the original. Hold the 2nd nut firm, wrench on the original and back the 1st nut off to bind against the 2nd nut. Wrench on the top nut to back it out.
On the JB, I replaced the intake manifold gaskets on my 2003 Sonoma truck with the 4.3 V6. Long and short, originals were plastic body's with plastic seals around the intake holes. New gaskets were from Fel-Pro. Metal body with rubber seals around the intakes on the head. The heads had a lot of pitting around the intake ports. JB weld, I smeared JB over all of it. Little higher using my razor blade.
220 grit sand paper over a wood block, back and forth with a figure 8 pattern. 100,000 miles later still good to go. Yuppers I've owned for quite a few years.
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375 Posts
Just my opinion here, I would figure its time for new antifreeze anyway so bite the bullet and pull all the studs. If you have steel nuts it wasn't done right to begin with. Clean everything up and put the studs back in with a good thread sealer. NAPA used to stock the brass nuts you will need, now you know why you don't use steel nuts on the exhaust bolts. As for the manifold repair, used one are cheaper than the cost of a cheap repair look on ebay for a good used manifold. New aftermarket ones probably won't fit right. None of mine did.
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Check both the head and the manifold with a good straight edge to determine which is not flat. If it is the manifold, it's probably cheaper to buy a replacement manifold rather than to pay a machine shop to mill it flat for you, but a replacement head is much more money, so the best choice if the head isn't flat would be to take the head to a machine shop.
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9,542 Posts
Sorry, I forgot how those old flatheads were built.
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Alright i ordered the gaskets I had the manifold off once but never knew about the nuts being brass so i just reinstalled them at the time. I also cant remember if the block was pitted or the manifold once i get it off ill update everyone. Does anyone happen to know the temperature around that an 8n would get around the manifold?
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I'm not sure on that particular engine, but the exhaust manifold on most liquid cooled gasoline engines shouldn't get above 500 or 600 degrees Fahrenheit if everything is working properly, and most will be in the 300 to 400 degree range. If the timing is off or the mixture is too lean then it can skyrocket from there, with temperatures reaching as high as 1200 degrees. The metal will usually begin to glow somewhere around 800 to 900 degrees depending on the exact composition of the metal so if you see it glowing orange or red it is too hot and something is not correct, either the timing or fuel mixture are incorrect or the cooling system isn't working properly.
Since the 8N has a single shared manifold for intake and exhaust, I would suspect that when running properly it would be toward the lower end of the range, hopefully around 300 degrees or maybe even a little less.
Since the 8N has a single shared manifold for intake and exhaust, I would suspect that when running properly it would be toward the lower end of the range, hopefully around 300 degrees or maybe even a little less.
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