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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a 2006 Craftsman with a blown 20hp Intek engine. Free of course. I put in an older 18hp opposed twin Briggs. It Fired it up and the engine runs great.

Problem wiring it up. there are two wires coming from the engine. Red and black. I assume the red one supplies current to charge the battery. What is the black wire for?

There was a small lug on the engine for ground and I hooked the grounding wire from the switch to that. I started the engine today, and cut about half an acre of grass. Everything was great but then I ran out of gas. I put more gas in the tractor, but it would not start. I jumped directly to the starter and got it running again but it will not start using the key.

Went looking for the fuse, but can't find it. Do these newer tractors us a fuse or some king of fuse link. I went to the Craftsman download site, and got the schematic, but the thing is so small I can't read it. When you try to enlarge it it blurs. You can print it but you can't save it. Seams like Sears does not think you should have this information.

I tried to get at the solenoid, but of course Craftsman buried in in a place that will necessitate me removing the bolts holding the motor and sliding it forward to get at it. Can;t blame sears for this, because of the size and shape of the replacement motor.

I am thinking that one of the safety switches is not working properly.
 

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What you describe with the red and black wires from the stator sounds like the Briggs dual circuit system. The red is for charging the battery, like you said.
The black is normally used to drive the headlights and should go to a separate light switch. (can use a 3-way switch to allow powering headlights from either the stator or the battery)

Here is the link for the Briggs alternator stuff:
http://www.tons-of-tools.com/briggswiringexplanation.pdf

There is probably a fuse or a link, but if you have power to the switch on the "bat" terminal, the fuse should be good.

Sounds like you are on the right track with the starting problem. First, find out if the switch is sending the "start" signal to the solenoid. If you have a solenoid with two small posts, then one has to get ground and often the interlocks are involved with that. If only one small post, then it's just a matter of getting the 12V from the ignition switch and that will also probably go thru some interlocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice and especially for that link. I was able to get a good copy of the wire diagram and the schematic by using the full screen mode and then using my Nikon D200 and taking a photo in raw mode. I then edited it and printed it out full size. Makes for better reading of the fine print.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Found the problem. The stator has two windings on it. On charges the battery, and the other powers the lights. Some idiot, me of course, did not know what the black wire was for, so I left it hanging bare. Of course it shorted out. Also found the fuse. Don't know why Craftsman buries it deep in the bowels of the tractor but I had to lift up the gas tank to find it. Right now, every thing is fine in the Land of The Chesapeake Bay.

Oh, I was able to use the stator from the original 20hp Briggs. Same windings.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I thought I had, but I just came back in and in looking over the schematic of the wiring, I realized the red wire coming from the stator has a diode in line to prevent current from coming into it from the battery. You have to know, that I cut if off yesterday and it went out with the trash.

So now I will have to find one of equal value, if I only knew what equal value is. Sears won't know, but I bet Briggs and Stratton does. Can't do anything about that until Tuesday and I hate waiting. And to think that there was a time when I used to build my own Amateur Radio equipment. If you don't use it you lose it.
 

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Well I thought I had, but I just came back in and in looking over the schematic of the wiring, I realized the red wire coming from the stator has a diode in line to prevent current from coming into it from the battery. You have to know, that I cut if off yesterday and it went out with the trash.

So now I will have to find one of equal value, if I only knew what equal value is. Sears won't know, but I bet Briggs and Stratton does. Can't do anything about that until Tuesday and I hate waiting. And to think that there was a time when I used to build my own Amateur Radio equipment. If you don't use it you lose it.
I think any diode that can carry, say 10 amps, should work. You should be able to find one of those. Last time I needed one, I unsoldered one from an old circuit board.

Here is a recent thread dealing with this. http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=143526&highlight=diode
 

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ok....some of the newer stator rings put out 15-18 amps....so make sure u have one that can carry that much amps...
& b sure u get it in the right way....one way will not let elect flow to battery....the proper way will....... u can test the proper way with a volt meter with engine runnin
 
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