My Tractor Forum banner

21 - 40 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
I've been thinking about that for a while, even before this project came along. I'm guessing that Troy-Bilt is SAE, not metric, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
You can cut a couple of slots in an Allen cap screw, and use it like a tap to clean out those threads, us plenty of oil, and work it like you are using a tap, back and forth as you slowly advance it .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,111 Posts
If that is the 8hp Briggs, I did a complete rebuild on my Troy Horse a few years ago. Ended up boring out the cylinder, thankfully most parts were easy to find via eBay.

It ended up costing more than I'd like to admit, but there is something to be said for having the original chunk of iron still on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Any of the Honda or Honda Clones bolt right up....I just finished a 5 hp Honda swap and a 6.5 Predator swap....literally 20 minutes tops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Any of the Honda or Honda Clones bolt right up....I just finished a 5 hp Honda swap and a 6.5 Predator swap....literally 20 minutes tops.
Good to know, thanks. I'm going to give the old motor a chance first. Mine is the 6hp Tecumseh, I believe.

I have the outer shroud with recoil start cord, a donut of electrical stuff including the coil with spark plug lead, points and condenser, and a metal plate with cutouts. It was disassembled when I bought it. I imagine the metal plate is attached to the motor block first, then the electrics, then the flywheel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Good to know, thanks. I'm going to give the old motor a chance first. Mine is the 6hp Tecumseh, I believe.
I have the original Tecumseh HH60 on the Horse my wife's grandfather left behind. It needed a carb rebuild kit and a new float (pin hole corrosion) and now it runs great. Your engine doesn't appear to be all rusted and stuck, from the pictures it looks to be in fairly decent shape. I recommend spending the time and elbow grease and give it some TLC. With care that engine will out last anything from China.... and you've got the electric starter!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Thanks for your response, JCM.

I'm trying with the original motor - just stuck on the ignition system - no spark yet.

The previous owner installed a new carb 2 years ago, so it should be good.
 

·
Motorhead
Joined
·
6 Posts
those motors from harbor freight have a low oil switch in them and if you tilt the motor it kills the engine.

The Harbor Freight Predator engine low oil switch is simple to bypass. You just need to un-plug one wire that is located outside the engine near the on-off switch. On mine it was a simple bullet-style connector, yellow in color.

That said, you should also fill the oil reservoir by putting the tiller/engine into the same angle it will be in when tilling, which means front up/tines-down. When the tiller is in that position, open the oil filler cap and fill 'er up. The engine will run fine when in travel/level position, and will still appropriately lubricate when in tilling position. I've run mine for hours using this method. The Predator has way more torque than the Tecumseh it replaced (mine is an early 70's Horse model), is much smoother and much, much quieter.

The Predator bolted right into place. A couple of the original bolts were not long enough, and I had to replace them with appropriate length ones. Other than that one small issue, everything fit, no clearance issues etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I would try the acetone/atf penetrating mix if you can leave it sit for a few days. (I've read it was the best penetrating oil around). Then tap on the head of the screw with a small hammer a few times. I've loosened many the bolt this way just using kroil penetrating fluid, time and patience.
Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
My frozen muffler bolt was solved in post #19. Rounds of heat from a propane torch, and penetrating oil. Then rocking the vive grips back and forth. (I did also try the hammer tapping.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Hello. I've read about the Predator gas motor available at Harbour Freight that bolts right on. Since I'm in Canada, does anyone know if Princess Auto sells an equivalent?
Avoid the predator unless cost primary factor and life and serviceability are least important. Been servicing engines for 52 years, least quality seen on these. They seem to run good and hard, but the supporting finge that makes it an engine is poor quality, things like a good governor system can become a huge factor. B&S has a engine replacement database and tech support. Give me the chassis model and serial and the engine numbers and I will see what I can get for you as an option. Homepage.html
Homepage.html

P.S. Is this the Horse Tiller by Garden WAy/ Troybilt. Serial on chassis is on the edge of the tranny.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,284 Posts
I have a Horse. I am willing to sell. It had a 7 or 8 HP Tec (maybe B&S) aluminum engine that blew up. I got a 9HP B&S NOS from PAL; it was one of their "special buys". The engine frame size was bigger and all cast iron. Bigger shaft diameter. Had to make a few mods to get it to fit. What a difference in power. Worked like a dream with new engine. I highly recommend going to 9 or 11HP. Where are you located?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Avoid the predator unless cost primary factor and life and serviceability are least important. Been servicing engines for 52 years, least quality seen on these. They seem to run good and hard, but the supporting finge that makes it an engine is poor quality, things like a good governor system can become a huge factor. B&S has a engine replacement database and tech support. Give me the chassis model and serial and the engine numbers and I will see what I can get for you as an option. Homepage.html
Homepage.html

P.S. Is this the Horse Tiller by Garden WAy/ Troybilt. Serial on chassis is on the edge of the tranny.
Troy-Bilt, Horse tiller, serial #368482
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
I have a Horse. I am willing to sell. It had a 7 or 8 HP Tec (maybe B&S) aluminum engine that blew up. I got a 9HP B&S NOS from PAL; it was one of their "special buys". The engine frame size was bigger and all cast iron. Bigger shaft diameter. Had to make a few mods to get it to fit. What a difference in power. Worked like a dream with new engine. I highly recommend going to 9 or 11HP. Where are you located?
North of Toronto, in Uxbridge
 
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
Top