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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a Kubota 3130 I purchased new in 2006. I've been using genuine Kubota OEM engine oil and filters. I'm thinking about changing over to a Full Synthetic oil for diesels. Reason is longevity.

It doesn't get used much, so oil changes are few and far between.

Should I change it every year, even though it hasn't reached the hours.

Any ideas of pros and cons and brands would be appreciated.

Also someone said the "Off Road" diesel is better for the Tractor than the on road diesel.
Is that true?

Thanks,
Kip
 

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I would use synthetic,if I lived in a very cold area,or had a motor with a sludge problem.I think big rig truckers use conventional oil,for a good reason,cost and wear vs synthetic,no difference ,a known fact through oil analysis,which is an important tool for truckers.I use conventional diesel oil 15/40 in all my diesel vehicles(all old) and almost all my gas mowers. Rotella,Delo,Delvac or any other brand that's on sale.
 

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Kip, good question. Being a question on engine oil should bring all kinds of opinions LOL.
My BX23 calls for engine oil changes at the 100 hr mark and I've adhered to that schedule for 900+ hrs and nearly 12 yrs successfully. My yearly usage peaked at 100hrs when it was new to a yearly avg of 50hrs which means my engine oil may go nearly 2 years before I change it.
Some will argue for a yearly change no matter the hrs which doesn't hurt but since I keep the BX23 in the dry (enclosed shop) I don't worry as much about condensation as I haven't seen any indication of it. If I did see evidence I'd adjust my oil change schedule. So far I've experienced no oil related problems.

re. type of oil. For the 1st 6 or 7 oil changes I used Kubota branded 10w30 dino oil. I decided to switch to Rotella T 10w30 since which is also a dino oil. It is nearly 1/2 the price of Kubota's oil and is used by most area Ag and OTR shops in their diesels. I also run the same oil in all my gas engine Ag equipment and even in my old 49 Chevy 6 banger. I generally buy it in either 1 gal or 2.5 gal jugs when they go on sale at TSC and Rural King. Dino oil has worked fine in my Ag eqt so I haven't a reason to go Syn.

re. Off road diesel. I heard several stories on it being better too but I haven't seen any real world difference in my usage. It IS cheaper per gal down my way which is the reason I use it whenever I drive the additional distance to fill my cans.

Basically it boils down to what gives you piece of mind.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do appreciate the replies.

Looks like they suggest that synthetics aren't any better than Dino oil, just more expensive. .

And maybe time on the equipment clock is more important than calendar time.

One concern I had is that many moons ago I read that used Dino oil tended to harbor acids harmful to engines over a period of time. So it should be changed at least once a year. Preferably at the end of the season of heavy usage.

And that synthetic oils are't so prone to do that. Don't know if that was true then or, if so, is still true now with technical advances.

Also that synthetic oils cling better to parts with long down times. ???

From what I was told elsewhere, the higher sulfa concentration in OFF ROAD diesel is better on the injectors.

Does that make sense??

kip
 

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Don't worry about it, modern engines are designed to run on ULSD. That machine will outlast your grandchildren as it is.
 

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I do appreciate the replies.

Looks like they suggest that synthetics aren't any better than Dino oil, just more expensive. .

And maybe time on the equipment clock is more important than calendar time.

One concern I had is that many moons ago I read that used Dino oil tended to harbor acids harmful to engines over a period of time. So it should be changed at least once a year. Preferably at the end of the season of heavy usage.

And that synthetic oils are't so prone to do that. Don't know if that was true then or, if so, is still true now with technical advances.

Also that synthetic oils cling better to parts with long down times. ???

From what I was told elsewhere, the higher sulfa concentration in OFF ROAD diesel is better on the injectors.

Does that make sense??

kip
I need to clear this up,cause it could effect my thinking here.My understanding is that synthetic is highly refined to remove wax,this makes it flow better cold.Dino oil contains up to 10% wax.The wax makes it cling to parts better.
 

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Id be every interested to see an article and pictures of engine damage from acid in motor oil.I should mention that my work commute is 2 1/2 hr.round trip,part time .Thats why im ok with not changing oil more frequently.Ive been driving the same three diesels since the 1990s(270,000mi,245,000mi,190,000mi)and lately im more bold in my belief,that the only thing that can really kill them is not having oil in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I remember when synthetic oils first came on the scene for me. Back in the early 70s, and seems it was Amsoil.

I was heavily involved in dirt bikes and enduros. The owner of the local Yamaha shop got some of it. He heated a thick metal plate to glowing and put a drop of Dino and a drop of that synthetic on it. The synthetic vanished and the Dino left a residue. He felt that would reduce the number of times our piston tops needed to have the carbon removed and plugs last longer. He said it was not made from petroleum. It was made from plants. I personally didn't use it until many years later.

I remember that I changed the oil and filter in my cars and trucks every 3k miles. And the several Companies producing and selling synthetics were beginning to advertise changing the filters every 5k and the oil every 10k because Synthetics didn't build up acids like Dino oil did. I stayed with proven Dino and moved the changes up to oil and filter every 5k, as that is what the mfgs suggested.

Old fashioned I recon, but still use dino oil in my cars and trucks, and even the tractor right now.

Since early 2000, the lawn mowers get synthetic, because they may run wide open here in Georgia in 90+ degrees for several hours. And synthetic is designed to do better at longer higher engine temps.

I found the below paragraphs from this article this morning. https://www.thoughtco.com/mixing-regular-and-synthetic-oil-p2-607586

"WHAT THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN REGULAR AND SYNTHETIC OIL?
Both conventional and synthetic motor oil is derived from petroleum, but they can be very different products!

Conventional oil is refined from crude oil. It circulates through the engine to keep it cool and prevent wear by acting as a lubricant. It helps prevent corrosion, keeps surfaces clean, and seals the engine. Synthetic oil serves the same purpose, but it's tailored for higher temperature and pressure.

Synthetic oil is also refined, but then it's distilled and purified so that it contains fewer impurities and a smaller, select set of molecules. Synthetic oil also contains additives intended to help keep an engine cleaner and protect it from damage. The main difference between regular and synthetic oil is the temperature at which it undergoes thermal degradation. In a high-performance engine, regular oil is more apt to pick up deposits and form sludge. Cars that run hot do better with synthetic oil. For most automobiles, the only real difference you'll see is that synthetic costs more initially​ but lasts longer between oil changes."


So much for the Derived from Plants myth. It can really get confusing!:tango_face_smile:

kip
















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In the engine, a Rotella or some other non OEM oil is acceptable. I'm not familiar with this exact tractor, so i'm not sure if it is hydrostat or not, but if it is I would always use the Kubota Transmission/UDT fluid, if you use another type, you will notice louder noise and overall worse performance.
 

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T6 rotella in all my diesels! I use to race offshore boats and the motors would not stay together without synthetic, so there is a difference.
 
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