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Electric controlled Snowblower project

38966 Views 91 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  K-K
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Having recently bought a 42" Snowblower (190-341-100) off of CL for my GT2544, I decided that now is a good time to start working on electric controls for it while it's not in use. (Not to mention that it's about time to start a new project! :) )

My plan is to document and install electric controls for:

  1. Actuator Assisted Lift
  2. Actuator Assisted Discharge Chute Angle
  3. Motor Assisted Discharge Chute Rotation

For the actuator assisted lift, I'm going to go with a design nearly identical to skerkvli's. Hopefully, the only change that will be needed will be to the bottom mounting plate. My snowblower has height adjustment brackets that will interfere with angle plate on the bottom mount when it's installed. A section of it will need to be cut out to allow for movement and then reinforced (I'm planning to use a small piece of 2" square steel tubing for this.)

I've converted the original lift arm artwork that skerkvli provided to a dwg (CAD) format which I'm hoping I'll be able to provide to a local fabricator to have them flo-jet the two plates for me. This will save a ton of time manually cutting these out (and my thought is to also save some money.) The rest of the cuts can be made with a chop saw before being welded up.

For the actuator, I'm going to use the same 4" electric actuator that came with my Johnny bucket. Since it's going to be on the right side of the tractor as opposed to the left, I'm going to install an additional switch on the right side of the dashboard. The existing two switches already installed for the Johnny bucket will be used for the chute assist (rotation and angle) instead.

For the actuator assisted discharge chute angle adjust, I'm going to go with a design nearly identical to BUZZ5588's. It's going to use a 2" mini actuator made by Firgelli with 15 lbs. of force. I decided to use a mini actuator since the chute angle adjust since it really doesn't require a lot of force to move the chute and having something small will make it easy to mount and install.

My plan is drill a hole in the chute metal bracket for the top of the mini actuator, then for the bottom mount I'm using the Firgelli mounting bracket to bolt to the chute. It will only require 2" of movement for full up and down movement with the actuator mounting hole near the chute pivot point.

Next, I'm going to terminate the wiring from the actuator with the quick disconnect supplied by Johnny products. This will allow me to use the same wiring as the Johnny bucket with only the need to change the fuse from 30A to 5A (the mini actuator is only rated at this.)

Finally, for the motor assisted chute rotation, I'm going to use a power window motor. This seems design seems to be how the majority of them are implemented. The closest design that I could find a picture to what I'd like to do was from rocko.

I've ordered a power window motor already, but I'm not happy with the setup. It's a 9-tooth gear, but it doesn't fit a 12-point 7/8" socket like most people have had success with. Even so, since it's an odd shaped gear size I'm not confident it's going to be perfectly aligned when it rotates. So, I've decided to go with a symmetrical 6-tooth gear and the motor will be on the opposite side (i.e. passenger side vs. driver side.) I'm just waiting for the new motor to come in right now.

As for the wiring, just like the mini actuator for the chute angle, I'm going to be terminating the power window motor with a quick disconnect from Johhny products. This will allow me to make use of my existing wiring for the Johnny bucket.

So far I've only just started the fabrication for this, but I'm planning on fully documenting everything as things progress including information on the parts I'm using and measurements to make it easy for folks who would like to reproduce this.

Even though I'm still waiting for quite a few parts to arrive, I expect everything to be here by next weekend. In the meantime, I've started fabrication on the mounting plate for the motor assisted chute rotation (attached is a picture.) I'm using a piece of 3/16" thick 6061-T651 aluminum plate for the mounting bracket (1/8" steel would work fine as well.) Once the new power window motor arrives and I'm happy with it, I'll going to drill the mounting holes for it.

I looked at using a modified 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter, but I think I'm going to build my own using 5/8" OD steel tube (.120 wall) welded to 1/2" square steel (similar to how the universal mounts on the rotating arm.) This should fit right into a 6 or 12-point socket that has been shortened then into the power window motor gear. This will keep the standoff's for the motor housing very short and close the aluminum mounting plate. I'll provide an update once the metal arrives and the motor comes in.

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Sweet! I am looking forward to your next installment.

Now I really don't care for that plastic chute deflector - I would really like to see someone come up with a good replacement for that POS.
Hey Eric, when are you going to do an electric deck lift???? hint hint hint. :)
Hey Eric, when are you going to do an electric deck lift???? hint hint hint. :)
LOL! I'm not anywhere near that talented! :)

The one thing I'd probably consider more than an electric deck lift would be power steering. It's the only thing I wish I had on the 2500 especially when you put weight in the front like the Johnny bucket - it gets even more difficult to steer.
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Since I'm still waiting on parts, I wasn't able to get a lot done today.

However, I was able to get the spacer tubes and the lift tube cut for the actuator lift arm. Once I get the lift arm sides cut out with the flo-jet I'll then cut the bottom lift tube to length before it's welded. I have a feeling I'm going to have to make yet another modification to the length of the lift tube since the snowblower lift mechanism that I have appears to be a slightly different style than the one skerkvli has on his snowblower.

In addition, I was able to get the spacer cut to length for the chute angle pivot bracket. When you remove the plastic control cable guide under the metal bracket, the bracket has nothing to support it when you tighten the nut. I solved this by adding a washer (so it doesn't dig into the plastic chute when it moves) and then a spacer around the bolt for support. This way the bracket will be rigid for the up and down motions when the actuator arm is moved.

The length of the spacer with the washer in place is about 9/16". I'm not exactly sure of the spacer diameter since I had it lying around, but I'm sure you could buy one exactly like it at Home Depot in the hardware section and just cut it to length like I did. Just bring the bolt as a guide.

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LOL! I'm not anywhere near that talented! :)

The one thing I'd probably consider more than an electric deck lift would be power steering. It's the only thing I wish I had on the 2500 especially when you put weight in the front like the Johnny bucket - it gets even more difficult to steer.
Change out the fronts to ribs or the X-Tracs like I got... It's night and day, poor mans power steering....

Ya, power steering would be great though! I'd love to have a hydro or electric lift, however I mow on '6' anyway, so.... But it would be nice for winter time and getting the blade up and down....
Might be able to go to 7....
The Firgelli Mini actuator for the chute angle adjust arrived today. I'm going to use their mounting bracket, but I'll probably increase the hole size ever so slightly so it has a bit more heft when mounting to the plastic chute assembly.

I'm still waiting on a lot of parts, but hopefully most of it will be in by the time I get back from my trip at the end of the week. My plan is to hopefully have the chute rotation and angle control installed this weekend.

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I've made some progress today on getting the chute rotation and angle adjust installed today. I went with a new power window motor (from a 92-07 Ford Crown Victoria passenger's side front) that has a 6-tooth gear on it. This can be adapted using a 19MM 6 or 12-point 1/2" socket. In addition, I ended up using a 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter. The adapter needed to be drilled out however, and the hole enlarged on the chute rotation spring/gear assembly.

I finished drilling out the holes on the 3/16" thick aluminum mounting bracket, and used 1/2" diameter 1/8" thick wall aluminum tubing as standoffs (including 1/4" x 5" long bolts to hold it in place) to support the power window motor off the mounting bracket. Finally, the aluminum mounting bracket was bolted to the chute assembly using 1/4" x 3/4" long bolts in addition to the 1/4" x 5" long bolt for the bottom standoff mount.)

Hopefully, the pictures should be clear on how I mounted everything. The wiring isn't finished yet, but now that I have the Johnny Products extension cables the plan is to finish that tomorrow.

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Additional pictures with everything installed. Also, the 5" bolts will be cut to length since they didn't have 4.5" long bolts at the store. The aluminum standoff's measure approximately 2 7/8" long.

Using this approach, I can do away with the universal joint and everything is in perfect alignment. Also, once testing is completed, I'll be painting everything.

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Here's the chute adjust mini actuator installed. It requires only 2" of travel for full movement between the up and down positions.

I drilled out the top bracket and mounted the bottom bracket right into the plastic chute assembly. Finally, I installed a clevis pin and quick release pin on the top and bottom so the actuator is easy to remove in the event I ever need to service it.

Finally, the wiring will be tied into the existing wiring for the Johnny bucket.

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Hey Eric

That looks fantastic - both of your control mods are very clean and well thought out. What is the actuator for the discharge angle originally from? It looks like it belongs there. I might just swipe both of your designs...
Hey Eric

That looks fantastic - both of your control mods are very clean and well thought out. What is the actuator for the discharge angle originally from? It looks like it belongs there. I might just swipe both of your designs...
Thanks. Once the wiring is completed, then it's time to start on the lift actuator mounting assembly. This is going to be some work since I can't use skerkvli's design as is for the bottom mount, but I have some ideas on how to make it work.

As for the actuator for the discharge angle, it's a 2" mini actuator made by Firgelli with 15 lbs. of force. I got the idea from BUZZ5588, so I really can't take the credit on that.

I may re-wiring the mini actuator though since the internal wiring is pretty small. I've already disassembled it and it's possible to do this, but the bottom mount will need to be drilled out to accommodate larger gauge wire. I can just re-caulk it to make sure it's watertight.

Finally, the power window motor I used was an Ebay special - $39. And, all the metal I purchased was in small quantities - I got it from Speedy Metals, but there's a number of other retailers which you can buy from as well. Hopefully, that will make it easier to do the work without having to buy a large lot of material.
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very cool looking. Do you plan on making any videos? A nice little youtube showing that thing working very very cool. :)
very cool looking. Do you plan on making any videos? A nice little youtube showing that thing working very very cool. :)
Once I get everything soldered and wired up I'll post a video for you.
I guess till winter comes you can invest in $150 worth of packing peanuts to test it out. :)
Wow, a really nice job on that snowblower! Just make a huge batch of bubbles in your backyard and blow those around! Get video for America's Funniest Video's and of course I get a 10% idea fee if you win!!!!
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I ran into a small issue with the chute rotation mounting bracket today when I was testing it out. The top right edge of the aluminum bracket was hitting the lower chute assembly during rotation. I ended up having to cut the corner on an angle so it would clear. Otherwise, now it's working flawlessly.

I also decided to re-wire the power window motor using the correct Delphi 2-pin watertight connector that hooks right up to the Johnny bucket wiring. This way it will quickly connect and disconnect without having to have a second set of wiring installed in the tractor. I will warn you that it was a pain to put the power window motor back together after soldering the wires directly to the brushes (the springs kept popping out the brushes ever time I tried to put the motor back in), so I wouldn't recommend doing this (but I admit that I'm a bit of perfectionist so I wanted to avoid the additional splice.)

In addition, I disassembled the mini actuator, removed the paper thin wire, and wired it up with the Johnny products wire directly to the internal motor. Since the wire was a lot thicker than the original wire, I had to enlarge the hole in the bottom mount. It wasn't too hard to do everything, just time consuming to disassemble it, solder it up, heatshrink the wires, and then re-caulk it so it would be waterproof.

The only thing I wasn't able to finish today was crimping up the last Delphi 2-pin watertight connector for the mini actuator since I'm still waiting for it to come in (should be here this week.) I'm planning on also having this plug directly into the Johnny bucket wiring so it can be quickly connected/disconnected.

Here's the video - enjoy!

If all goes well, I'm going to start cutting out the bottom mounting bracket for the actuator assisted lift next weekend. Also, I still need to get the lift arm cut out on the flo-jet, but I probably won't get to this until the following week.

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great video.... still didn't see the packing peanuts and the thing in action!! :)
great video.... still didn't see the packing peanuts and the thing in action!! :)
Sure, only if you clean it up though after I'm done having fun! I even have ample packing peanuts on hand. ;)
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