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electric clutch fixed

532 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  green dream machine
i have a jd 111 and i always have had problems with the electric clutch. i replaced the switch and any bad connections. and it would work for a while then cut out. finally found the problem. when they did a repower on the machine they didn't put a spacer between the engine and the clutch and the wires were rubbing. they didn't have the spacers anymore so i went to the hardware store and bought some 1-inch washers and cut notches in the center they fit perfectly i then put a used clutch from another machine and it works great now to put new bearings in the spindles for the mower deck.:tango_face_smile_bi
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The original engine probably did not have spacers, but the shape of the engine front allowed space for the wires.

AS A BIGGGGG WARNING....you have now spaced the back side of the clutch (the coil side) out from the engine (this section does not touch that engine shaft - it's just donut around the shaft). Only that section has moved. The pulley and clutch have not moved as a result of the spacer. So you have now moved the coil closer to the pulley/clutch. Depending on how much space was there and how much you spaced it, you may now be rubbing the coil with the clutch. It won't last long if there is any rubbing/contact

How do I know this? When I repowered my 318 with a Honda 630, I spaced the coil just like you did - but either I had less space or thicker washers or a different engine front. After installing the whole electric clutch assembly, I proudly turned the key and heard a single click. Bad battery? no problem. I put the charger on the battery and got the same "Click". I then tried to turn the engine by hand and found it was completely frozen. My clutch/pulley was so tight against the coil that the engine couldn't turn. Luckily nothing was damaged - I had to add a spacer behind the clutch pulley to space it out as well. As I tried different spacers, I could have slight rubbing , no rubbing, or what I figured was too much space - it took some playing around to get it right.

BTW: Too much gap will result in higher coil currents - leading to shorter coil life
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i put the washer between the top end of the pully not between the coil and pully.it is suppose to have a spacer up by the engine,john deere showed a picture but would have to special order it. the clutch is all together and the whole assembly is moved about 1/2 inch away from the engine. the mower is a 79 and the 11hp engine was replaced with a 12hp by john deere
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you know you take the bolt out of the end of the crankshaft and the whole clutch assembly comes out as a unit. you put the three washers with notches in it up on the crankshaft and put the clutch unit back on and put the bolt in and tighten it to factory specs, three ugadugas. all fixed no problems. now to fix my tires that keep going flat and the flooding problems. but what the ha it was free.
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