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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How have you guys set up your 3 point hitches nor plows for electric or hydraulic actuator? I was wondering if anyone has pic of the sears electric actuators like on a suburban or gt/ss series, or what you have used for custom actuators.
:wwp: :thanku:
 

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This is a GT 19.9 with a Sears electric hitch.

I am pretty sure they will bolt on any 1966 or later Suburban. There is a toggle switch that mounts on the dash to control up and down movement.
 

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Buy High, Sell Low
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I have the electric lift 3 point in a box in the garage...will get around to installing it one of these days. If we ever get out of the negative degrees!
 

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Got Low Range????
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I just spoke with a guy in Indiana, who set up his manual 3 point hitch, with electric actuators for both the lift, and top link functions. Here's a video he put on youtube, for me..

Talk about timing..he just posted it yesterday. Neat idea, actuator for the top link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8JeWY0TOTs
Thanks a bunch. This is what I have been talking about. Sure would like to know where he got the two actuators and exactly what they are.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #6
I just spoke with a guy in Indiana, who set up his manual 3 point hitch, with electric actuators for both the lift, and top link functions. Here's a video he put on youtube, for me..

Talk about timing..he just posted it yesterday. Neat idea, actuator for the top link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8JeWY0TOTs
Thats sweet! I like the 'top' actuator for angling the plow he has as well. Thanks for the post!

BTW, wouldn't want to trade the front end loader on your tractor for a 2003 Husqvarna LTH1742with a bagger and only 70 hours on it would ya? :praying:
 

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I just spoke with a guy in Indiana, who set up his manual 3 point hitch, with electric actuators for both the lift, and top link functions. Here's a video he put on youtube, for me..

Talk about timing..he just posted it yesterday. Neat idea, actuator for the top link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8JeWY0TOTs
WOW! He's got a sickle bar mower on that!!! Now that's something I would buy an old Suburban to have around.

I'm curioius about the actuator as a "top link" comparing it to a traditional three point hitch on a farm tractor. Probably comparing apples to rhutabagas, but I've seen manual top links "beat to crap" on farm tractors when used in plowing r subsoiling where the link takes a lot of punishment. Interesting concept though.
 

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Jack of All Trades
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where would you get these actuators from?
Somewhere on one of my computers I have a old (late 60's - mid 70's?) set of plans to build a front blade for the SS16 and it shows using the convertible top actuator from a old Mercury convertible. I like my SS better than my 92 Dodge convertible (which needs a new top anyway) and have had thoughts about turning the car into a permanent open top :sorry1: and robbing the actuator.......
 

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WOW! He's got a sickle bar mower on that!!! Now that's something I would buy an old Suburban to have around.

I'm curioius about the actuator as a "top link" comparing it to a traditional three point hitch on a farm tractor. Probably comparing apples to rhutabagas, but I've seen manual top links "beat to crap" on farm tractors when used in plowing r subsoiling where the link takes a lot of punishment. Interesting concept though.
My sicklebar is an indespensible attachment around my small homestead. Besides the obvious ability to cut hay, it also helps to keep the stone walls from getting overgrown and keeping the fire roads open on the back 32 wooded acres. I also use it for chopping up Buckwheat before I till it into the gardens to help it from winding all around the tines. This season I'll also use it to chop up a 36' x 18' cover crop of peas before I til them under.

I'm also thinking maybe I would add an actuator for it, but time will tell.

Here's a link of the tractor over looking the fields and gardens that it tends.
http://www.sicklesgarden.com/MTFimages/SickleBar.jpg
 

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Jack of All Trades
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Spent some time last night researching the actuators as one I just got has a bad motor. That dang thing is only $230 for JUST the electric motor! someone on another forum suggested going to an RV dealer as some RV's use a similar type actuator. sure enough I pulled some up online and it looks like an RV linear actuator might do the trick, and a heck of a lot cheaper than a "correct" unit. Just do a Google search for electric linear actuators and there is a wide range of choices out there in different lift capacities and stroke. Hope this helps....Midnite
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #12
I can get some 12v electric linear actuators from my work, but they are only rated for like 100 Lbs and they only have about a 3.5 inch stroke... Don't know if that will work...
 

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They might,if you use the mechanical linkage to take advantage of the leverage,they might be strong enough..more stroke would be better though,because as you gain leverage, you lose range of motion..they might be "under-rated" to some degree,so it might be worth trying one if you can get one for next to nothing..
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #14
They might,if you use the mechanical linkage to take advantage of the leverage,they might be strong enough..more stroke would be better though,because as you gain leverage, you lose range of motion..they might be "under-rated" to some degree,so it might be worth trying one if you can get one for next to nothing..
yeah, they would be free... And the nice thing is, we cycle test them like 2million times here, so i know the longevity is there :)
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #15
Hey guys these are the free actuators i can get from work... One of two options (again cause the are free)- Use two actuators side by side (if they aren't strong enough on their own) or if they are not long enough, make a bracket that staggers them by a few inches, so i get longer throw and run them in parallel so they both open at the same time, but progressively as to make a longer ram






How they would look side by side (for weight capacity)


How they would look staggered (for extra length)
 

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Jack of All Trades
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Here is an actuator from a GT16 3 point, as you can see it is almost identical to your new ones. The top pin on the sleeve tube pins to the actuator end, the middle pin, or ear as it would be, attaches to the hitch. In the closed position it is 8 3/8 inches from center of mounting pin to center of hitch pin ear, open it is 12 1/2 inches. That gives a stroke of about 4 1/4 inches. I would think it would be fairly easy to fab up the sleeve tube to give you what dimensions you need for your application and of course the stroke would determine high high of a lift or how deep of a plow. Hope this helps.....Todd



 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #17
Here is an actuator from a GT16 3 point, as you can see it is almost identical to your new ones. The top pin on the sleeve tube pins to the actuator end, the middle pin, or ear as it would be, attaches to the hitch. In the closed position it is 8 3/8 inches from center of mounting pin to center of hitch pin ear, open it is 12 1/2 inches. That gives a stroke of about 4 1/4 inches. I would think it would be fairly easy to fab up the sleeve tube to give you what dimensions you need for your application and of course the stroke would determine high high of a lift or how deep of a plow. Hope this helps.....Todd




Thats tremendous!! Thanks Todd!!
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Discussion Starter #19
gt if u can get them for free get some ! i know people would buy them off you i know i would!!
I have two of them, but i don't know how they will work- I think the inside gears are plastic. I will try the soon and let you all know
 

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Jack of All Trades
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The one in my pictures, it originally came from sears and the gears are plastic. They seem pretty durable though. With the mechanical advantage of the gears, and the slow speed I don't think yours will give you any trouble at all...HTH...Todd
 
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