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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, I finally got an electric 3pt, but... When I put power to it, nada. I suspect maybe some corrosion inside. The tractor it was on was not stored outside, but the garage it was in was damp. I want to disassemble the actuator and clean and re-lube it. Has anyone here successfully done that? Thanks.
 

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Post pics of the actuator that you have, a make and model # might help also.:thanku:

Have you checked you control circuits with a multi-meter to make sure there's 12v power / ground to your actuator? May want to remove the actuator and go direct to your 12V source and see if it works from there.

Good luck!:fing32:
 

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ive had the gear box open before, and ive losened the screws on the motor and kinda taped on it and jared some dirt out...gotten mine working...usually i got one that sticks, if it aint been used in a while..u gotta hit the direction switch and then jar the hitch up and down hard to get it unstuck...but it works great after that
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I put 12V right to the actuator, + on one pin - on the other and then reversed. The actuator was on the 3pt at the time. I have not tried it since removing it and taking it to the bench. It is a Sears electric 3-pt off a '77 14-6. I could just start disassembeling, but was hoping someone could give me some pointers who has been inside one before.
 

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i used a white towel under mine and was just careful, the gear box is EASY to service..only like 2 gears I think fall out easily... u might be able to enter the hitch model # on sears site and get the diagram
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Ok, I got a manual on line and disassembeled the lift unit. What I found inside was prtty scary. The grease was like glue, corrosion had infested many of the steel parts. I was able to source a new thrust bearing and cleaned the rest of the parts up. Here's how it looks now:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The motor shaft was rusted in the lower bearing which is why the motor would not turn. The ball screw and gear train were free, but would not have survived long with the condition of the grease. The balls would not even recirculate on the screw. So,.....my question is,..... has anyone here ever had one of these down this far?
 

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ive had the gear box down that far..and the cover lose on the motor...Mine all worked with very little help...U do need to watch if you leave the tractor outside..mine tend to get water in them, and welp they freeze up in the winter ive noticed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, finally getting this on the 18. This is a test fit. Still a couple bugs to work out. The actuator seems to work great, and it should. A couple pics... I do have a q about the link arms. They look different than most I have seen. The tractor I got this from was set-upfor a tiller. Are these special arms for that application? They seem to be designed to float where most I have seen do not. Anyone know?
 

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They let each side side float, the hitch lets both sides float together. They should work. Worse case your box blade might lift on just one side.

BTW those links are for the manual hitch...they have the bend for the "cam over". The other ones are just straight.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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At any rate it looks really nice! Good job on the motor rebuild!
 

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where did you find a manual for how that comes apart ive been tring to get the lift arm out and cant ive got everything else apart but thats the only thing i cant get and its the problem y mine wont work
 
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