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Is your floor toothed in, perimeter of the slab 18" or so deep compared to 4" slab.

I would pour the approach similar to slab perimiter and pin it, (drill holes for rebar and install rebar to get them tied together), it will keep them on the same plane. I would taper the approach back 3 or 4 foot and score the concrete at that point to control crack, instal rebar through out the pad.

CCMoe
That is about the last thing I would do. Columns and beam tied to the garage foot would be a yes but to tie the drive to the garage slab never. Expansion and contraction will tear both apart. Sit the drive on the beam with a bond breaker and let it float. Use an expansion joint between the garage slab and drive.
 

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It all depends on how you go about it.

Dig down below frost line and pin it, depends a lot on existing garage pad. Anything can be done, it comes at a price though.

How do you think the entrance at your local Walmart stays intact, they sure don't want a trip zone, they keep that for the parking lot.

CCMoe
Not sure about yours but the local customer entrances to Walmart's are not driving surfaces here. Sidewalks are not even allowed to be pined to buildings.
 

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Pinned or not pinned, they remain consistaint with with entrance.

Neither of us have the Walmart prints to entrance, so I agree to disagree.

I would guess that it is footed below frost zone, walled and poured.

I've poured my share of concrete and never had a four inch drop in the approach to a garage, I would say it was inferior design and compaction.

CCMoe
I will agree with the inferior design and compaction. I have seen many four inch and greater drops in garage approached that merrily sheared the rebar or broke the concrete out. I have also poured my share of concrete and worked with the engineering of concrete products for years.
 

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It looks like they did get a lot accomplished (y) ...one thing that drives me crazy is the concrete guys never finish the area between the existing lawn and the board that they use for a form, and home owners never realized they would have to take care of it, so there is a big gap for a long time before it gets taken care of
If not in the contract assuming anything is crazy. But working with a contractor the first time without one is crazier yet.
If I had bid this the customer would have known everything. Type of materials used, to the amounts being purchased.
Yes sometimes there were over runs. Being the contractor, suck it up wasn't their mistake. If there was something not disclosed or hidden that was different.
But to put it simple if there is no line item for landscaping don't expect it.
 

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I may have misunderstood. This morning (5:30) my dog started barking. Couple guys already working removing remaining oarder supports and cleaning up. Cut diamond pattern and hosed off. I believe driveway had to be dry for sealer.

View attachment 2556153

Didn't take a picture of the relief cuts in the sidewalk. Can barely tell they're there. Had to get up close to see. Think the concrete stain color and stone really mask it well.
Just set enough to walk on. Same with saw cuts. So everything could have been done as soon as being on the surface didn't scuff it.
 

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I would use retain wall block as they would also last longer, not look out of place and blend better with the new sidewalk and drive. There are many shapes, sizes and colors to choose from.
I just have not had much luck with landscape timbers. The front face can be kept look nice. But the back sides and bottom faces rot away. Then there are also the pesky bugs they attract.
 

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The simplest for now maybe the thing to do. It can always be changed. Hope they get your meds figured out. My oldest sister has had thyroid problems for years. She has told me that about the time they find something that works someone changes it. Take care.
 
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