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Discussion Starter #1
was running great. All of a sudden just died. New plug/ air filter / fuel filter / fuel line/ carb this spring. Unit is 20 years old and this is the first time it let me down. Truly puzzling. Ideas?

Echo SRM 2605
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just quit? No odd noises, puffs of smoke, or warning? Does it feel normal when you pull the starter rope? If so, does it have spark?
Spark? I dunno. That's where I wanted to go next, thinking magneto. I have brand new NGK plug and they are extremely reliable. But how do you check for spark on such a short spark plug wire? thanks for answering up
 

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Same as always, pull the plug and ground it to the head. Use a wire to do that if the shrouds interfere.

I'm guessing the coil gave out. Also check for shorts in the kill wire.
 

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Just quit? No odd noises, puffs of smoke, or warning? Does it feel normal when you pull the starter rope? If so, does it have spark?
Correct. No warning shots. Starter cord = normal tension, and turning of engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Same as always, pull the plug and ground it to the head. Use a wire to do that if the shrouds interfere.

I'm guessing the coil gave out. Also check for shorts in the kill wire.
Thanks, Ronin.
 

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Just before I got out of the Army in 1971 I signed up for a seminar with a Ford training rep who taught us several tricks and tips. One of the things he showed us how to make was a spark tester from a probe-type test light....it required only swapping out the light bulb for a neon bulb that was the same size. Of course I lost the thing within a few years, but it sure would have come in handy for checking spark many times over the years. Sure wish I knew what that bulb number was!
There are many types of spark testers, ranging from grounding the plug to the head as Kubota Ronin suggests, to fancy inline testers with adjustable gaps. For your purpose, his suggestion should work just fine. If you can't reach bare metal with the body of the plug, do as he suggests and use a piece of electrical wire with the ends stripped to connect the plug body to a good ground.
 

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Any update? Did you replace ignition coil module/magneto?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Any update? Did you replace ignition coil module/magneto?
Doug: UPDATE: I ordered a new coil / magneto from SLE Equipment co in Tennessee. They do not stock the part, they have to order it from Echo. So SLE did their job, and ordered the part. Six days later, Echo got back to SLE and informed SLE that the part was back ordered at Echo, but it will be in this week. SLE is supposed to get the part this week, and have it in my hands sometime next week. All told, all parties involved are projecting it will take two weeks to get the part in my hands. Personally, I think that stinks that Echo didn't inform SLE that the part was on backorder. Old OPE, I don't have much choice if I want to keep the old wacker. The old wacker is lighter and has a larger engine than the newer model(s).
 

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Bummer that it takes them so long to get you the part. And AfterMarketeers have not jumped on the Echo train.
 

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I have an Echo 1501 bought 1988 it quit last year. Couldn't get it to do anything. Then on the first put it would have a weak spark, then nothing. Took all the covers off tried a good coil off a differnt Echo still nothing. It was a dirty nasty oiley mess. I washed it down with carbourtor cleaner put it back together with the origonal coil and it runs better then it had in year. All that oil and dirt was grounding out the spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have an Echo 1501 bought 1988 it quit last year. Couldn't get it to do anything. Then on the first put it would have a weak spark, then nothing. Took all the covers off tried a good coil off a differnt Echo still nothing. It was a dirty nasty oiley mess. I washed it down with carbourtor cleaner put it back together with the origonal coil and it runs better then it had in year. All that oil and dirt was grounding out the spark.
Yeah, well mine starts, then craps out. I don't have any oily mess. The area around the flywheel is real clean. Hoping I get this part sometime in 2019. Not like Echo is giving the part away for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bummer that it takes them so long to get you the part. And AfterMarketeers have not jumped on the Echo train.
Echo probably didn't make enough 2601's to make it worth the after-marketers time. Seems there's aftermarket coils for everything else, but not 2601.
 

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As DonF indicated - the 2 holes in the metal coil legs/fins where the screws go thru - must make good coil metal to cylinder metal contact. It's possible that enough non conductive grime is there to block current. Worth pulling coil and carb cleaning both metals and screw holes with carb cleaner. I don't hold much hope that it's the culprit.
I have revived an old Mac chainsaw coil: 2 hours in a 200* garage toaster oven.
 

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I took the Echo 21 cc apart on an ancient Mantis. It wouldn't start until I cleaned it, rebuilt the carb twice and had the coil off a few times.Still wouldn't start until I gave it a few squirts of oil into the cylinder via the plug hole. All my efforts had washed the cylinder down and it lost compression?
 

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I took the Echo 21 cc apart on an ancient Mantis. It wouldn't start until I cleaned it, rebuilt the carb twice and had the coil off a few times.Still wouldn't start until I gave it a few squirts of oil into the cylinder via the plug hole. All my efforts had washed the cylinder down and it lost compression?
I doubt 32:1 or 40:1 fuel mix adds any sig compression - just for lube. I bet you just finally got a proper air-fuel mix in the combustion chamber to fire. Esp if powerhead continues to run now.
Now, straight 30 wt or 90 wt gear oil will double or triple compression - will run for 5 secs or so with a lot of smoke. You can make a 40 PSI engine run for a little while. A good test is dumping a tsp of 90 wt gear oil in plug hole and re-checking compression. If much higher than baseline test, you have a ring or scored piston/cyl problem.
Or add a tsp of fuel mix to 90 wt and see if a non runner engine will run for 5 secs. If so, may be a parts machine as P, R and C will cost much more than a good used machine.
 
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