My Tractor Forum banner

Early model 345 electrical nightmare

1131 Views 4 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Engine_Tech
I've been dealing with a 345 for some time now. I'll give you the long version so you have all the details. Customer bought this used from a JD dealer in pieces. had been hit/rolled/or on fire at some point by previous owner who was a landscaper. They bought ALL NEW sheetmetal, hood, seat, decals etc. Customer strips entire thing down to bare chassis, paints chassis and reassembles with new parts. The machine looks like new. Now on to the real problem. Was brought in because it cranks all the time when the key is turned to the on position, not even the crank position. So we replaced the key switch circuit board assembly. Same problem. At this point we knew we were in for a doozie. The wiring harness has been hacked to death by someone, butt connectors, splices, electrical tape, you name it. Traced the wiring, found a short under the motor where a wire had merely rubbed thru and was grounding out on the frame. fixed it, another new keyswitch/board assembly, also replaced the timing delay module at the same time. fixed, started and ran as it should for two days. then back to same issue. Ughhhh. Obviously it really needs a new wiring harness, once that is replaced, what modules should I start with again? Find it hard to believe no one repairs the old keyswitch boards and just solders a new relay in :( Thanks for the help guys!
See less See more
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
That is why used/torn apart tractors are almost never a good deal. I have had JDs all my life and have done all the repair work on them. I even worked at a JD dealership summers when I wasn't teaching for 12 years fixing garden equipment. The new ones are not fixable easily and the parts are so out of line you do not dare throw parts at them. I have a 345 also and it was having carb problems. Went to the dealer and was going to get a needle and float for the carb. The needle alone was $50 without the seat. Dealer is what I consider a friend as he was working where I did years ago. His advice was spend the $165 for a new carb because he did not think the parts would solve my problem. He was probably right as the 345 now runs like new again with a new carb. Roger
See less See more
REARELY does a carb ever have to be replaced, a simpler device there isn't... but as long as the new one solved the probelms... I say great!

on the first 345 I would say get a new wiring harness and start from there.

tracing cobbled-up wiring is a nightmare, I bet they did not even splice with the same color wire etc. So you start out tracing a gray wire and it terminates in a red wire... etc. been there-

I know it does not matter now, but it sounds like the thing should have been parted out and not repaired, but seeing as they did all that work cannot understand why they did not start with a new wiring harness...

I hope your problem is one of the first bad connection you find, but unlikely.

I have a schematic for the 345, not sure if it is the same and yours but you are welcome to it, let me know-

See less See more
are you sure the starter is good? solenoid could be going bad.
Buy a harness. Cheaper than all the labor you are putting into it. Make sure you get the right one depending on serial number (pre or post RIO).

Usually a bad ground will cause them to do that constant cranking thing as it causes a relay to weld itself shut.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.