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Duraforce Rebuild

4474 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  LawnBoyDoc
As I was telling Sharkey earlier today, I am knee deep in my Duraforce rebuild. Its all apart and cleaned and I am just about to do a very very light hone on the cylinder for the new rings with my Flexhone (4 passes and one or two fast for cross hatching). I have pics I'll post later tonight, but it appears that the motor sat in a very humid environment or it was watered. Seems the bottom crank bearing had a bit of rust on the lower outside of the crank lip and partially on the bearing casing-couldn't see any on the ball bearings. I cleaned and oiled the crank bearings (both top and bottom ball bearing); the top crank bearing is butter smooth, the bottom crank bearing turns easliy-but it just has a "feel" to it. No where near as smooth as the top bearing.

What to do? It appears the Duraforce crank is ONE STOUT piece. BIG ball bearings!!. And although the bottom one seems a little less smooth it has no more free play than the top one. I don't think I could bend or hurt these bearings with a sledge hammer. Has anyone heard of a Duraforce crank bearing failure??

Also appears that the bearings and crank are one unit. Bearings are not...sold separately ($80.00 for the whole unit at mowpart). Anyone have any experience you can put me at ease or tell me to take out the wallet. :crybaby:
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The durafaorce crank bearings are SKF 6005/C3 deep groove open face roller bearings. To replace them I usually cut the old ones off by hand with a dremel then freeze the crank 24 hours. I heat the new bearings to 350 degrees F and quickly press them on to the crank pressing only on the inner race. I have a special crank support plate that supports the crank from between the cranks counterweights.
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